Really? REALLY? REALLY? orly?

[image]http://files.myopera.com/drlaunch/albums/37656/ya-rly001.jpg[/image]
Then our damn rope got caught on the reppel. We were like "wtf - stuck rope benightment on a two pitch route? FFS". Gud times. Fun route, too!

My excuse is that I am too tall, but it is a poor one because people are good at all sizes of chimneys.
There is this 5.7 at Rumbling Bald called Froot Loops that features a second pitch chimney. I climbed it by climbing the 20 degree overhanging finger crack on the steep wall and then resting with my back when I got tired. It was super hard for me, and when I got to the top I ended doing these roof type moves on this chockstone that were basically equivalent to climbing a full body length roof. My partners did not understand why I was having so much trouble.

Uh, sounds like you did Froot Loops direct or something. What you are doing is equivalent to gastoning a hand crack. Wait. You gaston hand cracks, don't you?

As an aside, I had a buddy who was fixated on doing "old school" moderates. We go do Royal Arches in Yosemite, which starts with a 5.7 chimney. I lead up, establish the anchor. When he arrives he's huffing and puffing, turns to me and says, "If the rest of this route is like this, it fucking sucks!" I just laughed and told him if he didn't like that, good luck on his tick list. Those old routes are silly with chimneys.

I feel like it is a skill that will hopefully click someday. Every time I think it does, I am rudely returned to reality.

Did you do the Frosted Flake too? It is out of this world good. It is not fair to other cliffs that the Cereal Buttress has such a concentration of uber classics.

Uh, sounds like you did Froot Loops direct or something. What you are doing is equivalent to gastoning a hand crack. Wait. You gaston hand cracks, don't you?

As an aside, I had a buddy who was fixated on doing "old school" moderates. We go do Royal Arches in Yosemite, which starts with a 5.7 chimney. I lead up, establish the anchor. When he arrives he's huffing and puffing, turns to me and says, "If the rest of this route is like this, it fucking sucks!" I just laughed and told him if he didn't like that, good luck on his tick list. Those old routes are silly with chimneys.

Weird. I seem really relaxed in chimneys. They're really the only type of route I'm willing to solo.

Nope, we climbed way over on the left, some cool routes, then jumped on fruit loops as our last root. Rumbling Bald was well nice, I hope to go back there some time. Corn Flake and Shredded Wheat (that's the finger crack, right?) looked awesome. Especially shredded wheat, holy shit! What a splitter.

Shredded Wheat is super great. Caveat, I have only top roped it. It starts off as perfect fingers, then you get a rest at the small roof. After that, it is thin tips with no feet to an almost no hands rest. Then is the crux, a crazy throw off tiny tips to a mono pocket followed by easier climbing to the top. I can't wait to get back for the lead, but it is looking like it will have to wait till next winter because it is out of season now.

If you get back there, you need to get on Frosted Flake though. The Crux layback is strenuous and the gear gets below your feet real quick. You feel awesome after you nail the crux though. Total stud.

Frosted Flake (not cornflakes, that was in Squamish!) looked awesome, but fairly scary - or maybe I'm thinking of the direct version.

For me it depends on the shape/size of the chimney. Fruit loops was just awkward as hell. Stolen Chimney was just fucking terrifying, and the chimney on river tower was just loose as hell.
Now that I think about it, I've never found a chimney that's the right shape or size...

For me it depends on the shape/size of the chimney. Fruit loops was just awkward as hell. Stolen Chimney was just fucking terrifying, and the chimney on river tower was just loose as hell.
Now that I think about it, I've never found a chimney that's the right shape or size...

I've probably climbed 5 chimneys, if my memory serves me right. Two of them were roped. They all seemed pretty easy.

They were everything from squeezes to hip-heel

Stolen chimney was terrifying? That thing is casual!

I am not sure if people do a direct version but it probably would not be terrible. 30 or 35 feet of 8ish runout until the first piece, but it is fairly featured rock. The real route follows the crack from the ground. The crux lieback is technically protectable with 2 and 3 inch cams, but you would be placing blind pro during the most insecure and strenuous part of the route. I believe that most people just run it out.

I meant just to the right of the proper flake there's a wee flared crack thing that looks pantshitzing.

Whiskey for Breakfast?

Dunno, CBA lookin' it up, either.

Dear Magnus,
Why is it that I want to post whore the most when I should be post whoring the least? I figured you were an expert.

Regard,

John Wesely

My Dearest John,
randomize your password! GET THE FUCK OUT NOW, WHILE YOU CAN! RUN! DON'T LOOK BACK! this place is a soul sucking crack hit that keeps sucking you back for more.
My best advice is to stop giving a shit about the PC - your existence in this shit-hole is more affirmed by your giving of sound advice, discussion of worthwhile routes, heartless plugs at John, Greg, and e-kop, and your ability to banter. Quality of quantity bro!!!!
Sincerely,
Yours forever,
Magnus

My Dearest John,
randomize your password! GET THE FUCK OUT NOW, WHILE YOU CAN! RUN! DON'T LOOK BACK! this place is a soul sucking crack hit that keeps sucking you back for more.
My best advice is to stop giving a shit about the PC - your existence in this shit-hole is more affirmed by your giving of sound advice, discussion of worthwhile routes, heartless plugs at John, Greg, and e-kop, and your ability to banter. Quality of quantity bro!!!!
Sincerely,
Yours forever,
Magnus