|
untilwhen
May 22, 2010, 6:35 PM
Post #1 of 15
(4495 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2010
Posts: 18
|
i whold like to get better on my climbing technique on the outdoor:
1)can you guys give me a good article on how to improve my climbing
2)is there a video on it ?
3)climbing in the gym will make me better on the outdoor
4)whold you recommend on that book and dvd for a biginer
http://www.amazon.com/Self-Coached-Climber-Movement-Training-Performance/dp/0811733394/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1274553055&sr=1-1
or this 1
http://catalog.ebay.com/Training-Climbing-Eric-J-Horst-2008-Paperback-/63131302?_fifpts=1&_pcatid=4&_refkw=Training+for+Climbing&_trksid=p3286.c0.m504
thanks !
|
|
|
|
|
bsyed
May 23, 2010, 11:01 AM
Post #2 of 15
(4412 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2009
Posts: 119
|
im not sure if you're trollin but the most i can tell you if you're a beginner (and the non-existant amount of information on your background) is:
1). climb more
2). tie a ball to the end of a length of string and let it dangle down from your waste and itll show you where your centre of gravity is at. then you can position your feet accordingly
3). most people on this site neglect to tell you that being in good/great physical condition is the best things to help improve your climbing.
4). check rockclimbing.com articles and read "the rock warriors way"
5). youtube climbing training videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7Ki2RpF6_k
6). do a short course like a YMCA course to get you better at techhniques as the instructor can give you tips and advice on technique
|
|
|
|
|
rhei
May 23, 2010, 4:24 PM
Post #3 of 15
(4354 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2003
Posts: 71
|
If not a troll than a naive question based on the premise that an Internet response will make someone a better climber.
As far as question number four, what ever happened to personal judgment? Read 'em both and decide which suits your goals best. Each book brings a distinct emphasis to the discussion of goal setting, periodization in training, and mental approach. Why don't you spend some time with them and think about that?
|
|
|
|
|
climb4free
May 26, 2010, 5:34 PM
Post #4 of 15
(4122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2007
Posts: 283
|
I believe that much of the confusion comes BOTH from being soooooo new AND that English seems to be his/her second language.
I like Eric Horst's books, however have not read that one. Self Coached climbing is great if you have regular access to a full climbing gym and a partner with similar goals and schedule.
I use certain parts from Horst books: Flash Training & How to Climb 5.12. Certain parts from Self coached climbers. And certain parts from an article posted on rc.com called "Making of a RockProdigy"
So like rhei said, read them all and impliment what works for your life. Then "TRY, FAIL, & ADJUST"
(This post was edited by climb4free on May 26, 2010, 5:36 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
May 26, 2010, 10:17 PM
Post #5 of 15
(4052 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
In reply to: 2). tie a ball to the end of a length of string and let it dangle down from your waste and itll show you where your centre of gravity is at.
No, doing this will show you where the line of gravity is but it can not tell you where your center of gravity is.
In reply to: 3). most people on this site neglect to tell you that being in good/great physical condition is the best things to help improve your climbing.
Yes, gaining climbing specific fitness is essential. But improvements in climbing performance tend to result from multiple factors, chief among them development / refinement of skills. Fitness on it own does not equate to improvement or performing at a specific difficulty level.
|
|
|
|
|
mr.tastycakes
May 27, 2010, 12:58 PM
Post #6 of 15
(3983 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310
|
Good to see you posting here again, fluxus.
|
|
|
|
|
bsyed
May 28, 2010, 1:53 AM
Post #7 of 15
(3921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2009
Posts: 119
|
theres waaaaay too much stress on climbing specific excercises for beginners on this site.
Most wont climb that often and most have pretty shitty general fitness, hence so much posts on "Overweight/ skinny and starting climbing"
To begin with, getting some strength at a gym and climbing alongside with is will really some begin improvements for a beginner and climbing with it will help to learn utilise that muscle.
im just saying from when i started
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
May 28, 2010, 8:19 PM
Post #8 of 15
(3830 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
In reply to: theres waaaaay too much stress on climbing specific excercises for beginners on this site.
Consider the helpful field of inquiry we call sports science. You can find thousands of articles and many textbooks with titles such as "Motor Learning and Performance" that explore the details of how the brain learns new movement patters (among other topics). Its a complex and fascinating subject but the summary of what they tell us is that a high volume of high quality practice at a low level of technical difficulty is the most effective way to learn new movement skills. This is really beyond debate, so if you have a problem with the number climbing specific exercises here on RC.com; your real beef is with the most basic aspects of the science on motor learning.
In reply to: To begin with, getting some strength at a gym and climbing alongside with is will really some begin improvements for a beginner and climbing with it will help to learn utilise that muscle. im just saying from when i started
This isn't even English, but maybe you are an English language learner in which case I won't rag on you.
|
|
|
|
|
onceahardman
May 29, 2010, 1:26 PM
Post #9 of 15
(3760 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
|
In reply to: 2). tie a ball to the end of a length of string and let it dangle down from your waste and itll show you where your centre of gravity is at. then you can position your feet accordingly
You should consider more fiber in your diet if your waste is stiff enough to tie a ball onto.
|
|
|
|
|
climb4free
Jun 1, 2010, 1:45 PM
Post #10 of 15
(3621 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2007
Posts: 283
|
onceahardman wrote: In reply to: 2). tie a ball to the end of a length of string and let it dangle down from your waste and itll show you where your centre of gravity is at. then you can position your feet accordingly You should consider more fiber in your diet if your waste is stiff enough to tie a ball onto.
Oh my...he went there.
|
|
|
|
|
iron106
Jun 1, 2010, 1:59 PM
Post #11 of 15
(3610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2008
Posts: 213
|
In reply to: In reply to: Consider the helpful field of inquiry we call sports science. You can find thousands of articles and many textbooks with titles such as "Motor Learning and Performance" that explore the details of how the brain learns new movement patters (among other topics). Its a complex and fascinating subject but the summary of what they tell us is that a high volume of high quality practice at a low level of technical difficulty is the most effective way to learn new movement skills. This is really beyond debate, so if you have a problem with the number climbing specific exercises here on RC.com; your real beef is with the most basic aspects of the science on motor learning.
I think that you mean is that a high volume of high quality practice at a low level of technical difficulty is the most effective way to immediately improve a movement skill. However, that dose not mean to "learn" it. Learning refers more to the retention of the skill.
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jun 4, 2010, 10:51 PM
Post #12 of 15
(3402 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
So a person could climb a small jug 5.8/9 route 100 times (example), the jugs get replaced with crimps making it 5.10b or so. Since its the same route with holds near enuf the same positions requiring the same moves you would expect the person to climb that route in a few solid attempts?. Assuming 5.10 would be near enuf their limit.
I mean this as a genuine question btw
|
|
|
|
|
patmay81
Jun 4, 2010, 11:37 PM
Post #13 of 15
(3385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
|
ceebo wrote: So a person could climb a small jug 5.8/9 route 100 times (example), the jugs get replaced with crimps making it 5.10b or so. Since its the same route with holds near enuf the same positions requiring the same moves you would expect the person to climb that route in a few solid attempts?. Assuming 5.10 would be near enuf their limit. I mean this as a genuine question btw
I don't think this scenario presents a solid example of what a grade is determined by. Just to say that the jugs were replaced with crimps for example, is very subjective.
I do not think the moves will be even remotely the same for different "holds" in the same location/orientation.
For example: In order for a sloper to be effective for me, I need my hips very close to the wall. This is not the case for a positive jug or crimp. Also, I may need to place my feet differently on crimpy holds as opposed to a large jug.
all of this effects the movement between holds, therefore changing the moves. It may be possible to set a route with all "crimps" that would be easier than a route with all "jugs" on the same wall.
to answer the question, if the route is near/below the persons "limit" (again a very subjective thing- there are many factors and variables, and I don't like to limit myself anyway) that person should be able to climb that route.
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
Jun 6, 2010, 1:34 PM
Post #14 of 15
(3287 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
patmay81 wrote: ceebo wrote: So a person could climb a small jug 5.8/9 route 100 times (example), the jugs get replaced with crimps making it 5.10b or so. Since its the same route with holds near enuf the same positions requiring the same moves you would expect the person to climb that route in a few solid attempts?. Assuming 5.10 would be near enuf their limit. I mean this as a genuine question btw I don't think this scenario presents a solid example of what a grade is determined by. Just to say that the jugs were replaced with crimps for example, is very subjective. I do not think the moves will be even remotely the same for different "holds" in the same location/orientation. For example: In order for a sloper to be effective for me, I need my hips very close to the wall. This is not the case for a positive jug or crimp. Also, I may need to place my feet differently on crimpy holds as opposed to a large jug. all of this effects the movement between holds, therefore changing the moves. It may be possible to set a route with all "crimps" that would be easier than a route with all "jugs" on the same wall. to answer the question, if the route is near/below the persons "limit" (again a very subjective thing- there are many factors and variables, and I don't like to limit myself anyway) that person should be able to climb that route.
Well it was just a example, perhaps not a great one. None the less it only goes to show that no 2 routes can be the same or require the same execution of a perticular move.
Once you know the foundation of all the moves is their really much point in continuing with that lvl of low intense training?
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 6, 2010, 1:38 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
iron106
Jun 7, 2010, 12:37 PM
Post #15 of 15
(3197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2008
Posts: 213
|
ceebo wrote: patmay81 wrote: ceebo wrote: So a person could climb a small jug 5.8/9 route 100 times (example), the jugs get replaced with crimps making it 5.10b or so. Since its the same route with holds near enuf the same positions requiring the same moves you would expect the person to climb that route in a few solid attempts?. Assuming 5.10 would be near enuf their limit. I mean this as a genuine question btw I don't think this scenario presents a solid example of what a grade is determined by. Just to say that the jugs were replaced with crimps for example, is very subjective. I do not think the moves will be even remotely the same for different "holds" in the same location/orientation. For example: In order for a sloper to be effective for me, I need my hips very close to the wall. This is not the case for a positive jug or crimp. Also, I may need to place my feet differently on crimpy holds as opposed to a large jug. all of this effects the movement between holds, therefore changing the moves. It may be possible to set a route with all "crimps" that would be easier than a route with all "jugs" on the same wall. to answer the question, if the route is near/below the persons "limit" (again a very subjective thing- there are many factors and variables, and I don't like to limit myself anyway) that person should be able to climb that route. Well it was just a example, perhaps not a great one. None the less it only goes to show that no 2 routes can be the same or require the same execution of a perticular move. Once you know the foundation of all the moves is their really much point in continuing with that lvl of low intense training?
However, there is an almost endless amount of moves and sequences. Just because you practice one 5.10 dosen't mean you are a 5.10 climber. You are still the same 5.8/5.9 climber that has done one 5.10 because you worked the route. To "learn" to be a 5.10 climber you have to climb several different 5.10 routes in different locations on different materials. A 5.10 isn't the same in the gym as it is outside a 5.10 isn't the same on a sport route as it is on a TR, and a 5.10 crack isn't the same as a 5.10 face.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
