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PosiDave
Jun 8, 2010, 1:04 AM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2008
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What is the easiest way to get to these problem? Is there anyway to safely set-up a toprope? I climb Trad but am trying to explore they rarely used routes at Stover. I can't anywhere near onsight 12a and was told they bolts were spaced pretty far apart and that it is impossible to set a toprope off. If anyone has any info send me a message.
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joeforte
Jun 8, 2010, 1:56 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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You don't need to onsight 12a. You just need to be able to boulder v4. Break the climb down, bolt by bolt. If you really can't do the moves, but NEED to set it up on toprope, you can stick clip every bolt on your way up. Disclaimer: This will qualify you as an official wanker!
On a side note, I've been interested in getting on these lines as well. Maybe we can meet up sometime and I'll lead them! Let's hope the weather stays cool. Are you free later this week?
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PosiDave
Jun 8, 2010, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2008
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I went and checked them out today. I rapped in and took a look and they aren't as hard as I expected. So I figure a day or two and I can get them and the bolts are alot closer then I thought, I was figuring along the lines of Deans list and Tales
Do you know which climb is which?
Also, I think I am going to pick up some chains and quick links as the current set looked pretty rusted.
Two of us are going to start cleaning up some of the middle lines (Don Juan, The Problem, Man of Science) and some of the Trad lines.
After this week my schedule frees up a bit more so I will let you know more once we figure out.
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tomcat
Jun 9, 2010, 9:50 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2006
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I haven't led The Problem,but named it and did it on TR.There is a good kneelock part way up that yields a no hands rest.Or was....
The bolts were there way back then,someone did it as an aid route.It had all homemade hangers.
(This post was edited by tomcat on Jun 9, 2010, 9:57 PM)
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