|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Jun 24, 2010, 8:01 PM
Post #151 of 225
(9606 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
zeke_sf wrote: redlude97 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: jakedatc wrote: ...I also prefer climbing hard moves over "scenery" if i want scenery i'll go for a hike... Yeah, you're right, there's no hard moves in trad. jakedatc wrote: So again.. saying that you respect someones preference and then saying they are missing out because they don't believe in your preference is stupid. Dissing something you don't fully understand also looks stupid. And, yes, you are missing out. I miss out on sick ice formations, alpine environments, and the big walls because I don't have the skill set. Clearly, these deficits don't matter that much to either of us since we don't go out and do something about it, but I'm not going to turn around and say how stupid, scenic, and easy aid climbing is just because I've french freed a few moves and now think I know what I'm talking about. Can you quote where he said that? Did I say he said exactly that? Hypothetical, dude. I'm comparing his derisive tone (e.g. typifying gear wanking as hiking staircases and solely scenic) to an imagined scenario where I damn aid climbing based on my similarly limited experience with it. Please try to keep up.
But thanks for the PTFTW!!!
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Jun 24, 2010, 8:04 PM
Post #152 of 225
(9602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
zeke_sf wrote: But thanks for the PTFTW!!!
You planned on poaching that anyways.
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Jun 24, 2010, 8:07 PM
Post #153 of 225
(9595 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
Jay dishing out some cold sh&t!!!
Strict sport climbers kind of annoys me often because I don't see eye to eye with them on what constitutes a good route that we can both work on. Sport climbers that don't climb nearly as hard on gear also annoys me because they don't usually want to work with me on that beautiful hard trad line (or only wants to TR it). Weak climbers on gear annoys me the most, because they are often the most self-righteous kind and possesses neither the ability nor the balls to get out of their comfort zone.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jun 24, 2010, 8:12 PM
Post #154 of 225
(9590 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
zeke_sf wrote: redlude97 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: jakedatc wrote: ...I also prefer climbing hard moves over "scenery" if i want scenery i'll go for a hike... Yeah, you're right, there's no hard moves in trad. jakedatc wrote: So again.. saying that you respect someones preference and then saying they are missing out because they don't believe in your preference is stupid. Dissing something you don't fully understand also looks stupid. And, yes, you are missing out. I miss out on sick ice formations, alpine environments, and the big walls because I don't have the skill set. Clearly, these deficits don't matter that much to either of us since we don't go out and do something about it, but I'm not going to turn around and say how stupid, scenic, and easy aid climbing is just because I've french freed a few moves and now think I know what I'm talking about. Can you quote where he said that? Did I say he said exactly that? Hypothetical, dude. I'm comparing his derisive tone (e.g. typifying gear wanking as hiking staircases and solely scenic) to an imagined scenario where I damn aid climbing based on my similarly limited experience with it. Please try to keep up.
Uhmm.. He was talking about doing desert towers for the scenery and WG is a 5.7.. Vertigo is a 5.8... I'm not driving further and then hiking through talus for that. no thanks
|
|
|
|
|
ladyscarlett
Jun 24, 2010, 8:49 PM
Post #155 of 225
(9554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2008
Posts: 376
|
Hahaha!
I 'diss' all the sport climbers I've seen mainly because each of them had signifigantly smaller racks than even my very own puny young rack.
And because they all laughed when I had to use my nut tool...
It IS funny to see my friends leading 11c in the gym, 10d outdoor sport, and stand there awed when I tell them about a heady 5.6 traverse on lead (trad - of course! hee hee) 2 pitches up. And they ARE a little impressed with even my little n00b rack...
bah, part of me is a little glad that I climb at a low enough grade that I don't have to worry about trad/sport community dynamics.
But it's fun to watch all of you go at it! Can you take off your shirts next time please?
cheers
ls
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 24, 2010, 8:56 PM
Post #156 of 225
(9550 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Desert towers are usualy pretty effin hard. Easiest one I have ever been on was 5.9 but that ain't rumny 5.9! vertigo is 5.9 as well Vmc direct direct is 5.11 Duet direct is 10+ so that is probobly 11b rumny style way the fck off the deck. Those are some wicked cool fairly big climbs where endurance starts to play a factor. May be a grade or so easier that what you are used to doing but its fun stuff. Last unicorn over on the south buttress is wicked cool but if it's too eay for you there is pleanty of harder stuff there.
I respect the hell out of sport climbers who can cross over and climb the pants off anything regardless of style. I have not much respect for elite spurt climbers no matter how strong they are if they think they are too good to bother climbing anything other than their latest proj at the same pebble they always climb on. On the same note I have no respect for 5.8 trad climbers who diss sportclimbing .
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 24, 2010, 9:00 PM
Post #157 of 225
(9542 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
tradmanclimbs wrote: Desert towers are usualy pretty effin hard. Easiest one I have ever been on was 5.9 but that ain't rumny 5.9! vertigo is 5.9 as well Vmc direct direct is 5.11 Duet direct is 10+ so that is probobly 11b rumny style way the fck off the deck. Those are some wicked cool fairly big climbs where endurance starts to play a factor. May be a grade or so easier that what you are used to doing but its fun stuff. Last unicorn over on the south buttress is wicked cool but if it's too eay for you there is pleanty of harder stuff there. I respect the hell out of sport climbers who can cross over and climb the pants off anything regardless of style. I have not much respect for elite spurt climbers no matter how strong they are if they think they are too good to bother climbing anything other than their latest proj at the same pebble they always climb on. On the same note I have no respect for 5.8 trad climbers who diss sportclimbing .
Well, you get my vote for the most judgmental user on the site.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 24, 2010, 9:52 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 24, 2010, 9:38 PM
Post #158 of 225
(9514 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Jay, coming from you that is really something Seriously I have nothing against anyone as long as whatever their gig is it does not hurt anyone else.
When we talk climbing though there are different levels of respect and you can not deny that.
fat lazy trad climbers who diss sport climbing as being neither get no respect.
Prima donna sport climbers/boulders who send huge numbers on little rocks get some respect but in a side freakshow kind of way.
Climbers who are Bad assed sport And trad climbers get all the respect. Size does matter
Bad assed Ice and alpine climbers who still send 5.13 sport also get all the respect
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 24, 2010, 10:00 PM
Post #159 of 225
(9494 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Sure am glad I am not too good to be bothered with climbing this 2,000 ft wall
(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Jun 24, 2010, 10:45 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Jun 24, 2010, 10:02 PM
Post #160 of 225
(9493 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
jakedatc wrote: zeke_sf wrote: redlude97 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: jakedatc wrote: ...I also prefer climbing hard moves over "scenery" if i want scenery i'll go for a hike... Yeah, you're right, there's no hard moves in trad. jakedatc wrote: So again.. saying that you respect someones preference and then saying they are missing out because they don't believe in your preference is stupid. Dissing something you don't fully understand also looks stupid. And, yes, you are missing out. I miss out on sick ice formations, alpine environments, and the big walls because I don't have the skill set. Clearly, these deficits don't matter that much to either of us since we don't go out and do something about it, but I'm not going to turn around and say how stupid, scenic, and easy aid climbing is just because I've french freed a few moves and now think I know what I'm talking about. Can you quote where he said that? Did I say he said exactly that? Hypothetical, dude. I'm comparing his derisive tone (e.g. typifying gear wanking as hiking staircases and solely scenic) to an imagined scenario where I damn aid climbing based on my similarly limited experience with it. Please try to keep up. Uhmm.. He was talking about doing desert towers for the scenery and WG is a 5.7.. Vertigo is a 5.8... I'm not driving further and then hiking through talus for that. no thanks
Ummm... I was talking to you and don't care what he said. Great response though.
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 24, 2010, 10:18 PM
Post #161 of 225
(9483 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Duet Direct, Cannon Cliff. 10+ 300ft off the deck... The leader Alex loved Rumny BTW
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 24, 2010, 10:25 PM
Post #162 of 225
(9477 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
This guy cranks 12s @Rumny but he ain't afraid to get his tootsies cold in the winter
|
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 24, 2010, 10:42 PM
Post #163 of 225
(9467 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
This is probobly one of the easier desert towers. Only 5.9 but it drops off 450ft on either side when you launch out the plank to the corkscrew
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Jun 24, 2010, 11:54 PM
Post #164 of 225
(9435 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
I'm just realizing that Jay is a douche. Silly me for even paying attention. You know, there is one solid benefit to sport climbing. There's a lot more room in the pack for a six pack.
Take your rack of draws and try to clip your way up the west ridge of Makalu, or the Cassin Ridge on Denali, or the Exocet chimney on Standhardt, or the Goretta Pillar on Fitzroy, or any other badass alpine route. Let's see how far your sport skills get you. But hey, if being able to climb 70' of bolted 5.12 is your only goal.......Rumney is the place to be!! As long as you think it's cool. It's kinda like the little kids who think they're cool when they're playing tee ball. It's just very cute.
RR
Oh hey Jay, when you can clip your way up your 5.12 sport route with gloves, crampons, ice tools, and a 20 pound pack on, I'll be impressed.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 24, 2010, 11:59 PM
Post #165 of 225
(9433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
rangerrob wrote: Oh hey Jay, when you can clip your way up your 5.12 sport route with gloves, crampons, ice tools, and a 20 pound pack on, I'll be impressed.
And when you stop sight-seeing, and learn to pull a hard move, I'll be impressed. Falling on 10b, that's just so adorable!
Oh, and by the way, what makes you think I've haven't climbed trad, maybe even more than you.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Jun 25, 2010, 2:12 AM
Post #166 of 225
(9406 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
tradmanclimbs wrote: Duet Direct, Cannon Cliff. 10+ 300ft off the deck... The leader Alex loved Rumny BTW [IMG]http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/tradman/Duetdirect.jpg[/IMG]
Whoa - I first climbed that one when the perched flake was still in the pod (~1978) great climb. As is the DD, original VMC ( had to French Free the Cow's mouth - grrr,, Lab Wall etc. Of course now that I am a Rumney regular maybe I will have built up the guns to go after it.. Not.
To answer the original question - the title of the thread - the dissing (although as has been shown repeatedly in this thread its not so much dissing as bewilderment) is because the spurtsters can't distinguish between training and the real thing - they think training is the real thing.
Sorry Jake - I do respect you and your opinions. Not sorry and no respect to jay though....
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Jun 25, 2010, 4:44 AM
Post #167 of 225
(9377 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
olderic wrote: the dissing... is because the spurtsters can't distinguish between training and the real thing - they think training is the real thing. |
|
|
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Jun 25, 2010, 10:25 AM
Post #168 of 225
(9354 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
|
Climbers who identify with any one faction of climbing to the point that they exclude/look down on all other aspects of climbing are the ones who don't get it..
|
|
|
|
|
kyote321
Jun 25, 2010, 12:59 PM
Post #169 of 225
(9340 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 636
|
In reply to: If a trad climber actually says that sport is easier, well, that's because he's a bad trad climber. .
nailed it.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 25, 2010, 3:12 PM
Post #170 of 225
(9310 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
tradmanclimbs wrote: Climbers who identify with any one faction of climbing to the point that they exclude/look down on all other aspects of climbing are the ones who don't get it..
At least you admit it.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Jun 25, 2010, 3:45 PM
Post #171 of 225
(9295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
I think that all climbers are really missing out on the experience you get by hiking on a trail. You might think you're all baddass/hardcore with your "ropes" and your "routes," but real men are not constrained by seeking out "cliffs."
If you want to climb rocks, that's fine, but you'll always be missing out on something deeper. I have no respect for a 5.15b r/x trad climber who doesn't like hiking.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Jun 25, 2010, 5:30 PM
Post #172 of 225
(9263 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Now that this thread has turned into a place to list people you have no respect for, I'll add mine in no particular order.
Sara palin, teletubbies, ralph machio, kid rock, and Paris Hilton.
I pretty much like most climbers and even have a certain level of respect to the abnormally focused or douchbaggy ones too.
|
|
|
|
|
welle
Jun 25, 2010, 9:21 PM
Post #173 of 225
(9223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2008
Posts: 212
|
rangerrob wrote: You know, there is one solid benefit to sport climbing. There's a lot more room in the pack for a six pack.
Too late, RR, the crowds have arrived at Cannon: http://www.neclimbs.com/smf_bbs/index.php?topic=5908.0
and sorry about the face climbing remark, I just thought with your distaste for them, you'd be have a better tally of them in the Gunks.
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Jun 25, 2010, 10:41 PM
Post #174 of 225
(9206 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 364
|
In reply to: Now that this thread has turned into a place to list people you have no respect for, I'll add mine in no particular order.
Respekt
|
|
|
|
|
davidnn5
Jun 26, 2010, 4:33 AM
Post #175 of 225
(9668 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 8, 2009
Posts: 348
|
jt512 wrote: rangerrob wrote: Oh I'm sorry Jay..I don't live up to your expectations. I'll get better I promise! here, let me train for....I don't know....a week maybe. Then I'll be able to climb as hard as you on bolts. That's your fantasy. Here's your reality": rangerrob wrote: I start to fall on lead at around 5.10b. I start to fall on toprope and seconding at around 5.10c. Jay
Since we're arsing on about numbers, how tall are you Jay?
Because frankly, I had a lightbulb moment when on another thread you mentioned you weigh 135 lbs. No man I know, climber or otherwise, weighs that little unless they're 5'6. Ergo, it occurs to me that you have small man syndrome. Otherwise, I simply can't account for your obsession with e-peen battling.
|
|
|
|
|
|
