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pacman529
Jul 13, 2010, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2010
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Now, I understand that one of the first replies to this post is going to be suggesting the Self-Coached Climber. I am working on getting myself a copy. but until I can do that, I could use some helpful tips to get me on the right track.
I've been climbing for a year now, mostly indoors. For now, I'm pretty satisfied with the progress that I am making with regards to technique. Right now the biggest problem that I have been having is with my strength and endurance. At the gym I excel on the slab and the more flat walls, but when it comes to most bouldering or larger overhangs I fail miserably. Yesterday I was leading a 5.8 that had several roofs in it I had to get over. The moves themselves we so easy i could do them in my sleep, but by the time i got a little past half way up the wall my arms were just completely burned out.
does anyone have any simple tips or exercises that i could do to get better?
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jmeizis
Jul 13, 2010, 5:45 PM
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Endurance is all about mileage. Try doing laps on climbs that are a few grades below what are normally the hardest climbs you can do. Try and climb up and down that climb for 20-30 minutes. Try and push the difficulty of that climb higher and higher over the course of a month. Try not to get pumped although if you get a little pumped that's not a problem. If you can't go a full 20-30 minutes without getting pumped then the climb is too hard.
If you want to get stronger I'd suggest bouldering more. You can always do that endurance climb and slowly get yourself warmed up and then go bouldering. If you've only been climbing a year I wouldn't do much more than that. Plenty of people get overuse injuries bouldering so there's no need for anything more specific. Bouldering will also help your technique which could probably use some help as well.
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pacman529
Jul 13, 2010, 5:52 PM
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jmeizis wrote: Endurance is all about mileage. Try doing laps on climbs that are a few grades below what are normally the hardest climbs you can do. Try and climb up and down that climb for 20-30 minutes. Try and push the difficulty of that climb higher and higher over the course of a month. Try not to get pumped although if you get a little pumped that's not a problem. If you can't go a full 20-30 minutes without getting pumped then the climb is too hard. If you want to get stronger I'd suggest bouldering more. You can always do that endurance climb and slowly get yourself warmed up and then go bouldering. If you've only been climbing a year I wouldn't do much more than that. Plenty of people get overuse injuries bouldering so there's no need for anything more specific. Bouldering will also help your technique which could probably use some help as well.
ok, I've heard that term a lot recently (up until recently, most of my climbing was done at my school wall, and they rarely, if ever used it), but what precisely does "pumped" mean, and how can you avoid getting pumped?
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jomagam
Jul 13, 2010, 6:35 PM
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"Pumped" is when you feel that your forearm has an erection.
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jmeizis
Jul 13, 2010, 6:55 PM
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Like he said, it's when your arms feel hard and your fingers don't feel like they can stay closed. A good way to get rid of that feeling is to rest that particular limb so hanging on with the other hand and shaking the other one above your head and below it for a bit.
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