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Neoshade
Jul 27, 2010, 8:25 PM
Post #26 of 42
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LOL yeah. Underkill?
Those were for mountaineering (51g), but I've since replaced them with even lighter Mad Rock SuperTechs (43g) for the anchors, Mad Rock Oval Tech (55g) for the MP, and Petzl Attache3D for belaying (55g).
Getting nerdy about carabiners 
I've finally decided on an Oval Screwlock and matching Oval non-locker for TR anchors
Steel is a great idea too, for those weekend walk-up TR's.
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billcoe_
Jul 27, 2010, 8:37 PM
Post #27 of 42
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Neoshade wrote: LOL yeah. Underkill? Those were for mountaineering (51g), but I've since replaced them with even lighter Mad Rock SuperTechs (43g) for the anchors, Mad Rock Oval Tech (55g) for the MP, and Petzl Attache3D for belaying (55g). Getting nerdy about carabiners I've finally decided on an Oval Screwlock and matching Oval non-locker for TR anchors Steel is a great idea too, for those weekend walk-up TR's.
What color? I just want to make sure that they pair well with your shoes.
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Neoshade
Jul 27, 2010, 8:44 PM
Post #28 of 42
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billcoe_ wrote: What color? I just want to make sure that they pair well with your shoes.
LOL!
Actually, I leave that to my GF
she's got three belay devices, each paired with a same-colored HMS carabiner, and refuses to allow me to buy any further climbing gear that is "ugly"
Seriously...
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rcguy
Jul 28, 2010, 8:57 PM
Post #29 of 42
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Went through an AMGA course and we were intstructed to use 3 simple ovals gates opposite and oppossed. The reason was to create more of a surface area for your rope to pass over thus giving your rope a longer life.
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acorneau
Jul 29, 2010, 4:02 PM
Post #30 of 42
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If anyone is really that concerned about prolonging the life of their rope then they could use a shear reduction device like this one from CMI:
http://www.karstsports.com/cmishrede.html
I know a lot of the ropes course people use them.
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spikeddem
Jul 29, 2010, 4:30 PM
Post #31 of 42
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Stop buying annodized gear and your biners will not get "thrashed," young Neo.
No real wear ,.adfg.,w
hhae
h
ahjDeios
seriously neo!?
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j_ung
Jul 29, 2010, 4:39 PM
Post #32 of 42
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Much like the authors of the last couple biner threads, IMO, you may be over thinking this issue.
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marc801
Jul 29, 2010, 5:14 PM
Post #33 of 42
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j_ung wrote: Much like the authors of the last couple biner threads, IMO, you may be over thinking this issue.
It really doesn't f-ing matter what biners you use. Preferably ones that work and have a gate.
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JimTitt
Jul 29, 2010, 8:36 PM
Post #34 of 42
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Here´s a breathtakingly simple idea straight from the climbing instructors courses in the U.K.
Take that monster 8 descender (the one with 45kN stamped on it) you bought when you where young and impulsive. Use the big ring for all your slings, cordallettes, equalised dynamic sliding whatevers. etc.
Use the small ring for the rope.
If wear is an issue buy a Kong stainless one.
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snoboy
Jul 29, 2010, 9:49 PM
Post #35 of 42
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But what if I only have one, and my friends 8 is not the same size/shape as mine??? Oh Nooessss!!!!
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acorneau
Jul 30, 2010, 12:18 AM
Post #36 of 42
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JimTitt wrote: Here´s a breathtakingly simple idea... Take that monster 8 descender... Use the small ring for the rope.
But that's not redundant!!!?!?!!!!
You are most certainly going to die!
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Neoshade
Jul 30, 2010, 1:51 AM
Post #37 of 42
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HAHAHAHHA
OK, this thread just got ridiculous.
Appropo to the subject matter
I am over-thinking it, but I have a habit of being absurdly thorough before coming to simple conclusions.
Love the 8 idea, it's rather elegant. (why bother being redundant with 45kn solid AL? :P
And yeah, I suppose my MP biners are the least of my worries in rock climbing :)
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JimTitt
Jul 30, 2010, 6:15 PM
Post #38 of 42
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acorneau wrote: JimTitt wrote: Here´s a breathtakingly simple idea... Take that monster 8 descender... Use the small ring for the rope. But that's not redundant!!!?!?!!!! You are most certainly going to die!
No chance, I´m the guy at the belaying.
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healyje
Jul 30, 2010, 9:08 PM
Post #39 of 42
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Which brings up another point relative to over thinking and overkill. Climbers today appear to sometimes obsess over the details of this gear or that, or this gear practice or that.
Take this topic for instance - how many people have been dropped over the past two decades because their TR rope came out of the biners? Maybe none, or one, or two? Compare that to how many have been dropped by their belayers over the same period? Thousands upon thousands.
So, the next time you rig a TR, I'd suggest two opposed non-locking biners would be fine, but I'd be looking real hard at my belayer if I were you.
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majid_sabet
Jul 30, 2010, 10:28 PM
Post #40 of 42
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ToeMoss wrote: redlude97 wrote: ToeMoss wrote: johnwesely wrote: Neoshade wrote: "I'm a beginner Climber" HAHAHAHAAHAHA Very funny. ... johnweasly, I'm sure you are referring to sport or trad climbing, as "whatever's left on your harness" implies that you climbed your way up to get there. I'm talking about setting TR anchors from above. :) I would say after what you just did to my name, we are square. In all seriousness, I was just messing with you because you asked a super basic question that there was a whole thread about less than two weeks ago. I lol'd  ... Anyways, try this...2 identical lockers along with an identical non-locker. Oppose the lockers and pick a direction for the non-locker. Squish non-locker between lockers. You can then lead up, clip the non-locker, call take, and clip lockers at leisure. 3 biners is overkill, but I'm led to believe that the biner/rope area increase will decrease wear. Also, the gates of the locker will be spaced further apart. It's paranoid overkill, but you said so yourself, Neoshade, safety first.. If you had set up a TR with 2 lockers and a nonlocker, why would you be leading it? Person 1 leads up, sets TR. Persons 2 thru whatever TRs. Last person up, doesn't like to TR? I don't know man, it's redundancy and that's all that matters!! Don't question me like I'm a beginner climber. I'm actually very skilled, trust me.
statements like that will get you in to trouble
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c-money
Jul 30, 2010, 11:08 PM
Post #41 of 42
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I like overkill. I pretty much always use 2 lockers for my anchors and usually follow the general rule that asymmetrical carabiners (offset D shape) are best suited for anchor use and those pear-shaped symmetrical biners are generally meant for belaying. Obviously there is some variation within those broad categories of shape, but might as well use the gear for what it is best suited for...
(This post was edited by c-money on Jul 30, 2010, 11:11 PM)
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bill413
Jul 31, 2010, 12:04 AM
Post #42 of 42
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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healyje wrote: Which brings up another point relative to over thinking and overkill. Climbers today appear to sometimes obsess over the details of this gear or that, or this gear practice or that. Take this topic for instance - how many people have been dropped over the past two decades because their TR rope came out of the biners? Maybe none, or one, or two? Compare that to how many have been dropped by their belayers over the same period? Thousands upon thousands. So, the next time you rig a TR, I'd suggest two opposed non-locking biners would be fine, but I'd be looking real hard at my belayer if I were you.
The whole post bears repeating. Please pay attention to what you can conclude from the bolded section.
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