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arrrghjp
Dec 18, 2002, 10:57 PM
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I'm relatively new to climbing, and heard that a munter hitch?? could be used to repel with. I was thinking this might be a good thing to know. I almost dropped my ATC last week and got realy worried about what I'd do, if it had gone.
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winkwinklambonini
Dec 18, 2002, 11:00 PM
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You must know the munter hitch. It is good for rappelling, and belaying, especially off the anchor. beware of twisting though.
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jt512
Dec 19, 2002, 2:17 AM
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Save the munter hitch for belaying. Rappelling with a munter hitch is a last resort because it kinks the crap out of the rope. If you don't have a rappel device, but have 6 carabiners (or 5, if 1 of them is a locker), then rappel using a carabiner brake. Do a forums search to see how to set this up. Better yet, read a standard climbing instructional book so you can see what else you need to learn to become a safe climber.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-12-18 18:18 ]
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kman
Dec 19, 2002, 1:45 PM
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It is still good to know how to use the munter to rappell with though, in case you do not have enough extra biners. The more knowledge the better.
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climbinganne
Dec 19, 2002, 1:52 PM
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learn it...
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climbinganne
Dec 19, 2002, 1:53 PM
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climbinganne
Dec 19, 2002, 1:55 PM
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shortfatoldguy
Dec 19, 2002, 2:22 PM
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One Oregonian to another: eventually you'll really need this knot. I was 12 or 13 pitches up Royal Arches in Yosemite when I dropped my Reverso. No sweat.
A page showing how to tie both the clove and Munter hitches one-handed:
http://www.petzl.com/petzl/publicActiv?id=GDEPAROI# Hit the "knots" link on the left, then look for "Italian/Munter hitch". It's fast and easy and a neat way to impress your friends.
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arrrghjp
Dec 19, 2002, 2:38 PM
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Thanks a million for the help
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fitz
Dec 22, 2002, 12:04 AM
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I frequently use the munter hitch to belay right off the anchor. It can twist the rope, but is very strong.
For rapelling, I would probably use three wraps on a locking biner (see "Freedom of the Hills") first. Managing two munters facing away from you while rapping off steep terrain would be a bit nerve racking for me.
The biner setup mentioned above does work, but it is a little harder to rig and check with "D's" than old fashioned ovals.
-jjf
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billcoe_
Dec 23, 2002, 7:40 PM
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MY FIRST DISAGREEMENT WITH JT - EVER!!!
"Save the munter hitch for belaying. Rappelling with a munter hitch is a last resort because it kinks the crap out of the rope"
Josh: learn all you can about everything you can. One time in the valley, I saw a German snap a Munter on a biner and launch just about as fast as I can describe it. When we got down I stopped him and questioned him about it. I had used a Munter for belaying - but had never seen it for rappelling. It's very common in Europe to use just a munter in the big mountains for up and down. After my initial trepidation, I tried a Munter and it works great for rappelling. (It isn't my PREFERED way though, it will twist the rope, and that whole rope on rope friction thing still makes my spincter pucker up)
So, learn the Munter, learn the carabiner brake rappell, learn the Dulfersitz (try this well padded on low angle first!!!) hell, I'd even learn Fitzes 3 twist method if you're game (I've never seen that one - let alone try it). It's all good.
Someday, the one arcane thing you never thought you'd have a use for may save your bacon.
The trick is to practice it in a safe controlled environment before you are forced into it by an unforseen emergency.
Regards:
from another short fat old bald Oregonian!
Bill
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ponyryan
Dec 28, 2002, 8:30 PM
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See all the above comments from all those cool Oregonians above, then add the body rappel to your list of tricks. It may not be comfortable, but in a jam....
Lots of Oregon trad climbers, I never knew
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krustyklimber
Dec 28, 2002, 9:08 PM
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Jay,
What are the two extra 'biners for?
I have always used four 'biners to make a 'biner brake... two through my harness/belay loop (gates opposed) and two more with the rope through them (also gates opposed).
Enlighten me!
Jeff
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coclimber26
Dec 29, 2002, 5:28 PM
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Remember if you use a munter to rappel with a prussik or autoblock, the prussik must be above the munter instead of below on the leg. If I use the prussik above I use 3ft. of 6-7mm cordage so it doesn't get caught up in the munter....You must do this because the direction of brake is opposite of the atc.
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