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csproul
Aug 25, 2010, 2:17 PM
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I just got a couple new toys, a #5 and #6 Camalot (I already have an old #4 and a new #4), and I am looking for climbs to use them on. Give me your suggestions for 10a and under offwidths at NRG. Also, after getting kind of worked on the chimney pitches of both Epinephrine and the Casual Route, I'd like to work on my chimney technique. Again, suggestions for 10a and under chimney routes are appreciated. I'm feeling a little masochistic!
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rock_fencer
Aug 25, 2010, 2:43 PM
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There is a decent looking offwidth at Endless that i walked by last weekend on the way to PreMarital Bliss. Dont know what the route was but its two right next to each other. One would be a nice arm bar the other a fist/hand stack crack it looked.
T
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IsayAutumn
Aug 25, 2010, 3:23 PM
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csproul wrote: I just got a couple new toys, a #5 and #6 Camalot (I already have an old #4 and a new #4), and I am looking for climbs to use them on. Give me your suggestions for 10a and under offwidths at NRG. Also, after getting kind of worked on the chimney pitches of both Epinephrine and the Casual Route, I'd like to work on my chimney technique. Again, suggestions for 10a and under chimney routes are appreciated. I'm feeling a little masochistic!
I believe Autumn Fire at Endless is a good offwidth in that range. China Crisis is an 11a or 10d, but it is incredible! It is also bolted, unfortunately, but you could easily skip them.
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jajen
Aug 25, 2010, 4:33 PM
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Crescent Moon
Lunar Debris
Southern Hospitality
S.T.A.N.C. ( a little more stout!)
The Fourgasm
V-Slot
Stuck In Another Dimension ( 11A but after the start protects really well)
Butterbeans
Underfling
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j_ung
Aug 25, 2010, 6:13 PM
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jajen wrote: Crescent Moon Lunar Debris Southern Hospitality S.T.A.N.C. ( a little more stout!) The Fourgasm V-Slot Stuck In Another Dimension ( 11A but after the start protects really well) Butterbeans Underfling
Bhopal West
Strike a Smile
Both are 10a
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justroberto
Aug 25, 2010, 7:49 PM
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Triple Treat., 10a.
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IsayAutumn
Aug 25, 2010, 8:00 PM
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I wouldn't call that an offwidth. Plus, it climbs more like 10c, IMO.
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jajen
Aug 25, 2010, 9:04 PM
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Agree - Triple Treat climbs pretty stout!
Almost forgot, if 10c is acceptable, Crack A Smile - hard start but great climbing above!
Also, at Beauty, Happy Hands, Spiderwand, and Wham, Bam Thanks for the Jam. Plus, if you're go to Beauty, make sure you do Burning Calves (not an offwidth but outstanding) and Rod Serling!!
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csproul
Aug 25, 2010, 9:20 PM
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I've done Happy Hands, and it is #4 sized for a short time.
I have done Burning Calves, and you're right...awesome, but not offwidth.
I've looked at Spiderwand and Triple Treat, do they have a wide parts (don't really remember them too well)?
I've fallen off of Rod Serling. I don't remember that taking any wide gear either, but I did do some funky chimney scissor move to get up into the roof. Pulling out the roof and into the hand crack is where I fell off.
Can Crescent Moon be protected with a single 5 and 6?
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justroberto
Aug 25, 2010, 9:25 PM
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Well, the beginning is considerably easier with some OW technique rather than trying to stem it. After that, you're right, it's not. But there are a handful of others previously listed that I wouldn't really call an OW either, V-slot for instance.
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jajen
Aug 26, 2010, 12:11 AM
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Agreed. Couldn't remember the gear on V-slot - whether it helped to have wide stuff or not.
Spiderwand/Wham,Bam aren't really off width either but as you said, off-width technique will certainly help down low. I also can't remember whether you can actually use anything bigger than a #4. I do, however, remember wnanting more than one each #4 and #3.
Also, Crack A Smile definitely goes a bit easier with some off-width technique but doesn't need anything larger than a #3 ( maybe a #4).
Crescent Moon really doesn't take anything except big gear from my recollection. #4 low and then 5's and 6's, seem to remember hoping for the random small piece in a horizontal or some other weakness and not finding it soooo...borrow someone else's 5 & 6 and have some fun!! Lunar Debris doesn't climb like an offwidth at all but needs big gear.
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