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leyton
Aug 25, 2010, 9:10 PM
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Hi all! :)
Yesterday I climbed that dreaded route about 3 levels above my norm and had quite a few issues maintaining core, footing and basic endurance. Ended up twice falling 5 moves short of my very first attempt a few weeks ago ? Odd
Background
Started climbing 1 month ago, training on Monday on a homemade wall, lifts, press ups, I go until I feel burnt but nothing over the top. Then I rest for at least 1 day between my next climb, that usually happens on a Wednesday or Thursday.
The big question is, once you have started to strengthen and put on muscle, once it has recovered sure I have this new found power that has been increasing sharply over the month, but why does it seam to taper off ?
Is training for rock climbing a process of building strength, your muscles recover, and you really do have legit physical on and off days during the process of tendon, muscle recovery's ?
Or 2nd thought, Its in my head! and feeling slightly disappointment. But I guess the disappointment comes from a too higher expectation of my ability being so n00b and this early on. But why not performing now ? eek.
Thanks in advanced!
I am probably 10kg too overweight for my height too :) So a lot of challenge for my body to overcome.
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kobaz
Aug 25, 2010, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
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As usual... please do a search as there's a bazillion threads on this topic.
To give you a quick rundown here's a cross post of one of my posts in another thread on this exact topic.
In reply to: Climbing below your level is very important for improving. It makes you work on the most important aspect of climbing... the mental aspect. Without having to worry about "how hard do I need to crimp this move", you can focus on body positioning, footwork, and finding rests. Climbing skill is a pyramid. You need to build your base levels before you can really excel. Sheer strength is just one aspect of many that will propel you to great climbing. One great improver is endurance. Climb your warmups in a circuit until you are completely tired. And only your warmups. Once a week I would tire myself out on just bouldering v0 to v3 for as many hours as I could. Do all the v0's in your gym... and then do them again... followed by all the v1s... and keep repeating the cycle. That's just one of many ways to work on improving. And one more thing... don't forget to REST. And take some EASY DAYS. I've gone through two finger injuries in my career so far, it's not fun at all.
And additionally. One month of climbing is not even a drip in the bucket. Take it slow... very slow. Slower than you can ever imagine. There is plenty of time to improve, and the best way to improve is to just climb and get the mileage in.
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patmay81
Aug 25, 2010, 9:44 PM
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I'll bite...
It has very little do with strength, or even weight.
Yes, core strength and upper body strength can help, but more importantly are flexibility, stamina, balance, and experience. Knowing just how hard to crimp, or what smear will work are key.
There is more that you need to know than you will ever learn online. Get out and climb, a lot! Don't try and push the grades every time... it gets old fast. Climb something because it looks fun.
After one month of climbing, you have not even started to learn (anything). Keep it up, you'll get there eventually.
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leyton
Aug 25, 2010, 9:47 PM
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Thanks for finding that post Kobaz and your reply :)
I thought there is some physiological reasoning behind it and perhaps some information regarding the development of muscle but the advice is all the same, I have soo far to go! :) And its going to be done. hehe
Thanks heaps!
Leyton
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leyton
Aug 25, 2010, 10:10 PM
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patmay81 wrote: Get out and climb, a lot! Don't try and push the grades every time... it gets old fast. Climb something because it looks fun. After one month of climbing, you have not even started to learn (anything). Keep it up, you'll get there eventually.
Thanks Patmay81! Its great encouragement :)
Will let the thread die now :) Thanks heaps! Its good to hear from those whom have well surpassed my experience whom can offer some wisdom down :)
Cheers all! :)
Leyon 
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kobaz
Aug 26, 2010, 2:35 AM
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leyton wrote: I thought there is some physiological reasoning behind it and perhaps some information regarding the development of muscle
Here's the lowdown on muscle and all that. Gym climbing will initially do one thing for you, which is conditioning your body for climbing. It'll teach you the basics of moving up.
Little by little your tendons (key here being tendons, not muscles) will strengthen, allowing you do climb harder stuff. But that's not all. In that same time period of tendon development, your technique should improve which also allows for climbing harder stuff.
But, the primary goal shouldn't be pushing the grades in the first 6 months or so. It should be learning how to control your body, and how to read the wall. Climbing IQ is the key to progress. Your climbing IQ should drastically improve on your first few outdoor trips. And make sure you go with people that know what they are doing (which will be hard for yourself to evaluate at this point in your career) etc etc, or hire a climbing guide, etc etc.
On your first few outdoor trips you'll also notice that you're using muscles that you've never used in the gym. It's a totally different game, and a great teacher.
From my experience, the key to climbing is knowing how to rest, or how to climb with as little effort as possible.
I work at a gym, and I can't count how many times I've seen a burly football player, fireman, etc come in to climb for the first time and say "yeah I want to do that wall in the middle" -- which just so happens to be the steepest overhanging wall in the gym (to impress his buddies of course).
So here's this guy who can bench three of me put together and can carry a 180 pound person out of a burning building, climbing the wall. Many times the burley guy actually makes it to the top, just grabbing and flailing for anything he can find. He's completely exhausted when he gets down, high fives his buddies, and can barely walk from the exertion. (Edited to add: This guy lacks climbing IQ)
Burley guy looks at me... 5'4 120lbs looking like I probably can't bench a lunchbox, and says "hey, can you do that?". My reply "Yeah, sure... which route?"
So the moral of the story is... do you want to be the burly guy, or the graceful climber?
Footwork, balance, aerobics, using minimal effort, and climbing IQ is what it's all about, not just climbing the hardest thing.
(This post was edited by kobaz on Aug 26, 2010, 2:47 AM)
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leyton
Aug 26, 2010, 3:29 AM
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kobaz wrote: leyton wrote: So the moral of the story is... do you want to be the burly guy, or the graceful climber? Footwork, balance, aerobics, using minimal effort, and climbing IQ is what it's all about, not just climbing the hardest thing. Your right on it! :) At the rate I was going, it is easy to get into the burly climber mode and fool yourself into thinking that getting up that higher grade is a definitive measure of your ability. I am going to follow your advice and plonker around on the easier more manageable stuff and learn "easier" ways to get up those and work at it gracefully over the coming months. I have the opportunity to go boldering at some stage over the next month or two not far from here outdoors, it would be good :) Thank you so much! heaps! 
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