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Comptonclimber
Oct 28, 2010, 12:09 AM
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Has any body had any expeirience with the mantis or scorpion shoes. Which one would be better and last longer.
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steinmethod
Oct 28, 2010, 12:23 AM
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Solutions!
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Comptonclimber
Oct 28, 2010, 12:30 AM
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If the mantis or scorpion arnt that good what are the best under 100.00
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jbro_135
Oct 28, 2010, 1:19 AM
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If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks
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airscape
Oct 28, 2010, 12:55 PM
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I would say Evolves over Madrock.
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 1:52 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks
airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock.
Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)?
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Nick864
Oct 28, 2010, 2:10 PM
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Go madrock if you need to go cheaper. They wont last long, but they do perform well. If you are serious about climbing, then I'd save a bit more and get yourself a quality shoe (La Sportiva-Katana, 5.10, Scarpa). If you get into it you'll just end up replacing the cheaper shoes anyway. My biggest complaint about madrock and evolve is that they stink!!!!! Can't keep those smelling good. Make sure they are tight when you first buy them. |
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Comptonclimber
Oct 28, 2010, 2:15 PM
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Are the scorpions any good.
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airscape
Oct 28, 2010, 2:23 PM
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spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)?
Over here they cost the same.
I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best"
But I'm biased.
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acorneau
Oct 28, 2010, 2:25 PM
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I've never tried the Scorpions or the Mantis' so I can't help you there, but I like the Nago, and it's velcro version the Arco, a lot. They come in around $100 or less on sale.
I've got wide feet and the Nagos/Arcos have some nice room in the toe box. The rubber is pretty grippy and while they offer a little extra support they're not stiff.
You can check them out if you have an REI close by.
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Nick864
Oct 28, 2010, 2:28 PM
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They are an "entry level" shoe. This means they are fairly supportive, not very aggressive, and not very performance oriented. You won't get a lot of "feel" out of them. Most people I know that bought this type of shoe when they started, ended up buying something else 1-2 months later. That said, shoes like these make good "all day" comfort shoes and don't hurt to have in the shoe quiver. No matter what, if you are starting out, you will burn through shoe rubber quickly due to poor footwork (The heavier you are, the faster this happens). If you get a cheaper shoe, you can just replace it. A nicer shoe is worth resoling, but you have to stop climbing on them before you wear through the rubber (even if it is a tiny hole just at the tip). I would highly recommend the La Sportiva Katana. It is a great all around shoe. All that said, if you have a climbing shoe that fits well and works for you, great. Go climb
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 2:30 PM
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I'm gonna start this by saying that different people can have different experiences since so many factors come into play, and I don't mean to come off all "you're wrong, I'm right."
Nick864 wrote: Go madrock if you need to go cheaper. They wont last long, but they do perform well.
I actually found that my Mad Rock flashes were very durable. Definitely more so than any evolv shoe I have owned. Even on some of the really sharp limestone (in my opinion) that can be seen at places in El Potrero Chico they didn't really flinch.
In reply to: If you are serious about climbing, then I'd save a bit more and get yourself a quality shoe (La Sportiva-Katana, 5.10, Scarpa). If you get into it you'll just end up replacing the cheaper shoes anyway.
I dunno. I didn't know a huge difference between Mad Rock Flashes and any evolv shoe. I mean, the difference are noticeable, but for a beginner I really really really doubt it's worth the money. Most beginners have footwork that will trash any shoe they buy regardless.
In reply to: My biggest complaint about madrock and evolve is that they stink!!!!! Can't keep those smelling good. Make sure they are tight when you first buy them.
I agree that evolv shoes stink (as does a rep that posted a paragraph or three about it about two years ago), but my Mad Rock Flashes never did. Maybe other Mad Rock shoes do, but not the mad rock flashes (which I purchased with a comfortable enough fit that I could wear them the entire day without any issue at all).
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airscape
Oct 28, 2010, 2:31 PM
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Comptonclimber wrote: Are the scorpions any good.
Good with what?
Just don't go for the overly tight shoes like most people say.
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 2:32 PM
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airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)? Over here they cost the same. I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best" But I'm biased.
Woah. I've always seen non-sale prices for evolvs $100-$120 and Flashes for $75. I guess some of those older model evolv shoes can be like $85 (defy? i think those were phased out this year though.)
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 2:35 PM
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airscape wrote: Comptonclimber wrote: Are the scorpions any good. Good with what? Just don't go for the overly tight shoes like most people say.
I totally agree with that, especially for a beginner. It drives me crazy when people tell first timers to buy shoes as tight as possible.
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airscape
Oct 28, 2010, 2:40 PM
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spikeddem wrote: I'm gonna start this by saying that different people can have different experiences since so many factors come into play, and I don't mean to come off all "you're wrong, I'm right." Nick864 wrote: Go madrock if you need to go cheaper. They wont last long, but they do perform well. I actually found that my Mad Rock flashes were very durable. Definitely more so than any evolv shoe I have owned. Even on some of the really sharp limestone (in my opinion) that can be seen at places in El Potrero Chico they didn't really flinch. In reply to: If you are serious about climbing, then I'd save a bit more and get yourself a quality shoe (La Sportiva-Katana, 5.10, Scarpa). If you get into it you'll just end up replacing the cheaper shoes anyway. I dunno. I didn't know a huge difference between Mad Rock Flashes and any evolv shoe. I mean, the difference are noticeable, but for a beginner I really really really doubt it's worth the money. Most beginners have footwork that will trash any shoe they buy regardless. In reply to: My biggest complaint about madrock and evolve is that they stink!!!!! Can't keep those smelling good. Make sure they are tight when you first buy them. I agree that evolv shoes stink (as does a rep that posted a paragraph or three about it about two years ago), but my Mad Rock Flashes never did. Maybe other Mad Rock shoes do, but not the mad rock flashes (which I purchased with a comfortable enough fit that I could wear them the entire day without any issue at all).
What evloves did you use?
Did you not find a huge difference in the fit between them and the Mad Rocks?
I fitted quite a few Mad Rocks, but I couldn't find a single one that had a good fit, not even the one with the skulls 
The evolves on the other hand fitted me almost perfectly, and I can't imagine anyone can have used both and be comfortable with both.
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airscape
Oct 28, 2010, 2:44 PM
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spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)? Over here they cost the same. I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best" But I'm biased. Woah. I've always seen non-sale prices for evolvs $100-$120 and Flashes for $75. I guess some of those older model evolv shoes can be like $85 (defy? i think those were phased out this year though.)
Our local prices are a little skewed.
I paid about $90 for a pair of Evolve Pontas lace ups and the Mad Rock flashes where about $110 at the same shop.
The La Sportiva Miura, which is almost like it has been taylored for my foot is $300
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 2:51 PM
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airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: I'm gonna start this by saying that different people can have different experiences since so many factors come into play, and I don't mean to come off all "you're wrong, I'm right." Nick864 wrote: Go madrock if you need to go cheaper. They wont last long, but they do perform well. I actually found that my Mad Rock flashes were very durable. Definitely more so than any evolv shoe I have owned. Even on some of the really sharp limestone (in my opinion) that can be seen at places in El Potrero Chico they didn't really flinch. In reply to: If you are serious about climbing, then I'd save a bit more and get yourself a quality shoe (La Sportiva-Katana, 5.10, Scarpa). If you get into it you'll just end up replacing the cheaper shoes anyway. I dunno. I didn't know a huge difference between Mad Rock Flashes and any evolv shoe. I mean, the difference are noticeable, but for a beginner I really really really doubt it's worth the money. Most beginners have footwork that will trash any shoe they buy regardless. In reply to: My biggest complaint about madrock and evolve is that they stink!!!!! Can't keep those smelling good. Make sure they are tight when you first buy them. I agree that evolv shoes stink (as does a rep that posted a paragraph or three about it about two years ago), but my Mad Rock Flashes never did. Maybe other Mad Rock shoes do, but not the mad rock flashes (which I purchased with a comfortable enough fit that I could wear them the entire day without any issue at all). What evloves did you use? Did you not find a huge difference in the fit between them and the Mad Rocks? I fitted quite a few Mad Rocks, but I couldn't find a single one that had a good fit, not even the one with the skulls The evolves on the other hand fitted me almost perfectly, and I can't imagine anyone can have used both and be comfortable with both.
I've used both the evolv EVO and the evolv Optimus Primes (the latter being my current shoe).
When I got a hole in my Primes I sent them to Yosemite Bum (my second time there, great service both times). During that time I wore my Mad Rock Flashes. They're sized a bit looser in comparison to my Primes. Sometimes when I walk in them, I get the farty noises, so they're clearly not super tight.
Before I went to El Potrero Chico, my Primes developed a small hole in them. From reading on MountainProject.com I saw that some of the stone at EPC can wreak havoc on shoes. That's why I bought the Flashes. I wasn't too worried about performance (although I was pleasantly surprised), and wanted a good all day fit for the multipitch routes.
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 2:52 PM
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airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)? Over here they cost the same. I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best" But I'm biased. Woah. I've always seen non-sale prices for evolvs $100-$120 and Flashes for $75. I guess some of those older model evolv shoes can be like $85 (defy? i think those were phased out this year though.) Our local prices are a little skewed. I paid about $90 for a pair of Evolve Pontas lace ups and the Mad Rock flashes where about $110 at the same shop. The La Sportiva Miura, which is almost like it has been taylored for my foot is $300
$300!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
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airscape
Oct 28, 2010, 3:16 PM
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spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)? Over here they cost the same. I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best" But I'm biased. Woah. I've always seen non-sale prices for evolvs $100-$120 and Flashes for $75. I guess some of those older model evolv shoes can be like $85 (defy? i think those were phased out this year though.) Our local prices are a little skewed. I paid about $90 for a pair of Evolve Pontas lace ups and the Mad Rock flashes where about $110 at the same shop. The La Sportiva Miura, which is almost like it has been taylored for my foot is $300 $300!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry misscalc in my head. it's $200 a pair.
ZAR1550 : ZAR7 = $1
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spikeddem
Oct 28, 2010, 3:20 PM
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airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)? Over here they cost the same. I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best" But I'm biased. Woah. I've always seen non-sale prices for evolvs $100-$120 and Flashes for $75. I guess some of those older model evolv shoes can be like $85 (defy? i think those were phased out this year though.) Our local prices are a little skewed. I paid about $90 for a pair of Evolve Pontas lace ups and the Mad Rock flashes where about $110 at the same shop. The La Sportiva Miura, which is almost like it has been taylored for my foot is $300 $300!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry misscalc in my head. it's $200 a pair. ZAR1550 : ZAR7 = $1
Still an extra 40% or so.
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vegastradguy
Oct 28, 2010, 3:52 PM
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Comptonclimber wrote: Are the scorpions any good.
if the shoe fits your foot, it's fine.
La Sportiva makes an excellent shoe in terms of quality. Performance has nothing to do with the manufacturer and everything to do with whose foot its on.
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silascl
Oct 28, 2010, 4:12 PM
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spikeddem wrote: airscape wrote: spikeddem wrote: jbro_135 wrote: If I was going that cheap I would get Mad Rocks airscape wrote: I would say Evolves over Madrock. Is that to say you think Evolv shoes are cheaper than Mad Rock (flashes, i presume)? Over here they cost the same. I should actually have said "Try evolves as well since they are also under $100, see which ones fit the best" But I'm biased. Woah. I've always seen non-sale prices for evolvs $100-$120 and Flashes for $75. I guess some of those older model evolv shoes can be like $85 (defy? i think those were phased out this year though.)
The Defys are still around with a new variable thickness rand. They are available in some form for about $85-90 most places. Most Evolvs are a bit more expensive than Defys are, but a bit cheaper than 5.10 or Sportiva.
Edit: Inexplicably put apostrophes everywhere...
(This post was edited by silascl on Oct 28, 2010, 5:09 PM)
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erisspirit
Oct 28, 2010, 4:17 PM
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I'm a huge fan of La Sportiva... they just fit me so well.
My first pair of shoes were some cheap La Sportiva Cliffs. Right now I have some cheapy evolv shoes for gym climbing, and because the La Sportiva fit my foot so much better, it felt like a much better shoe to me.
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acrofobic
Oct 28, 2010, 7:18 PM
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Moosejaw has Katana lace shoes for $116 with free shipping. I just bought a pair
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