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winkwinklambonini
Dec 21, 2002, 10:19 PM
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In the climbing article about best and worst crags, under J-tree, there is a picture of west roof, or left roof, whatever. Anyway, I would like to say that that was my first 5.9, back in 97' or so, ah memories.
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daggerx
Dec 22, 2002, 2:48 AM
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wow thanks for sharing, but why not try posting something that someone cares about.
Daggerx
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pyrohalfronium-hozer
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Dec 22, 2002, 2:53 AM
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Let him have his glory . I gotta poo now.
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curt
Dec 22, 2002, 3:06 AM
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wink,
The last two morons notwithstanding, I believe it is the North Overhang on Intersection Rock. It is a classic.
Curt
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wv5ten
Dec 22, 2002, 3:37 AM
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congrats wink. memories rock
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curt
Dec 22, 2002, 3:50 AM
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wink,
You said that your first 5.9 was in 1997. That made me try to remember my first 5.9 climb. I think it was a route called "Slick Sides" at Taylor's Falls in Minnesota, in 1980. Ah, the good old days.
Curt
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bandycoot
Dec 22, 2002, 3:52 AM
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My first 5.9 was Fairview Dome. I was peer pressured into starting hard! I loved it...
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curt
Dec 22, 2002, 4:22 AM
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Josh,
I assume you mean the classic "North Face" route on Fairview. I have done that too. It is one of the "50 Classic Climbs" in North America. If you get a chance, go back and do a 5.10 route on the right hand side of the dome called "Lucky Streaks." It is less broken up by ledges and there are a few hanging belays, so you really feel like you are on a big wall.
Curt
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climbsomething
Dec 22, 2002, 5:24 AM
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Thank you, curt, for diplomatically turning this from a banal flame thread to a neat little topic.
My first 5.9 (of course I remember it, per my knack for useless random memory) was called How Bout A Little Fire?, at Mt. Lemmon's Munchkinland area (the premier moderate sporto playground in Tucson! ) Dead of winter, snow on the ground, but the sun was right on the rock and we had a splendid time!
That First 5.9... you're thinking, "I'm almost into the double digits now! Soon, my shoes won't be lying!"
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jt512
Dec 22, 2002, 5:37 AM
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My first 5.9? The TR on Beethoven's Wall at beautiful Stoney Point, which they now call 5.10a. It used to have a couple more holds.
My first 5.9 lead, and also my first fall on gear: Sphincter Quits at J Tree.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-12-22 18:56 ]
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climbingcanuck
Dec 22, 2002, 5:38 AM
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Hmmmm yes i remeber my first 5.9 i wasnt that long ago actually.
Its called "The Wall of the Evening Sun"
whatta name. its a thin crack that works its way up the right then a few metres to the left on thin holds. Then it comes to the crux where theres a thin hold up high and one lower down.You need to pull with your left and push with your right. it look like your doing a one arm pullup. Then your pretty well there
god thats a good climb.
( also my favorite)
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vicum
Dec 22, 2002, 7:05 AM
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My first 5.9 was Foolish Behievor in the Wichita Mountains(it was on tope rope). The first time I tried it, I got off route by turning the wrong way and out onto some 5.11c face. I remember thinking "man, if this is 5.9, I have a LONG way to go:-)"
~Arnold
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micronut
Dec 22, 2002, 5:00 PM
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My first 5.9 lead was "Velcro" at Devil's punchbowl. It was like my second lead ever, and as I was stepping up to get on it, some dude rolled by and starts telling me how he fell on the route the previous season and broke his leg!! Good stuff to inspire confidence.
I didn't lead .9 cracks at Josh until my second season climbing, and I still don't take that grade (or any route at J-Tree)lightly.
p.s. here are some "easy" 5.9's at Josh for those looking to break in, "Colorado Crack", "Invisibility Lessons", "Room to Shroom", "Middle Petote Crack".
[ This Message was edited by: micronut on 2002-12-22 09:08 ]
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jt512
Dec 22, 2002, 9:44 PM
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I didn't think Middle Peyote Crack was that easy. Then again I hold the record for most unsuccessful ascents of Pope's Crack.
Hmmm, easy 5.9s at Josh. That would be a short list. Or maybe I should say a Shorter list, since the Shorter Wall has several 5.9 "Lites." Also, the 5.9 to the right of No Calculators Allowed on the Thin Wall is pretty easy. For that matter, if you're looking for an easy 5.10a tick, No Calculators fits the bill. And for an easy 5.10b, Pinched Rib.
-Jay
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winkwinklambonini
Dec 22, 2002, 10:35 PM
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Anyone remember thier first 5.9+? I can't.
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climbinganne
Dec 22, 2002, 10:44 PM
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my first 5.9...
'a finer niner' - provo wall, city of rocks, idaho
5.9+, hmmmmmmmmmmm...don't remember
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pbjosh
Dec 22, 2002, 10:44 PM
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My first 5.9 was Whodunnit @ Tahquitz. Rocking route.
I agree that Invisibility Lessons, Middle Peyote Crack, Sphincter Quits and North Overhang are not "easy" 5.9's. Easy 5.9's off the top of my head would be Cakewalk and Wild Wind.
I think Pope's is easier than Touch and Go or any of the above, despite everyone wanting to call it 5.10a, maybe it just suits me
josh
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jt512
Dec 22, 2002, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
I think Pope's is easier than Touch and Go or any of the above, despite everyone wanting to call it 5.10a, maybe it just suits me.
Difficulty is subjective, of course. I onsighted Touch and Go (photo here), but have yet to redpoint Pope's Crack...next time, dammit!
Oh, another J Tree 5.9 that I think is easy for the grade, and an excellent climb, is that thin-crack/dihedral to the left of Big Moe -- maybe somebody can put a name to it.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-12-22 15:06 ]
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flash5twelve
Dec 22, 2002, 11:44 PM
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Quote:Difficulty is subjective, of course. I onsighted Touch and Go (photo here), but have yet to redpoint Pope's Crack...next time, dammit!
Hmmm. I onsighted Pope's Crack, but fell on Touch and Go (I was talkin' too much sh#t and not focusing on the climb.)
Quote:Oh, another J Tree 5.9 that I think is easy for the grade, and an excellent climb, is that thin-crack/dihedral to the left of Big Moe -- maybe somebody can put a name to it.
Boulder Dash**
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shortfatoldguy
Dec 23, 2002, 6:11 PM
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Would Jamcrack be a good first Yosemite 5.9?
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grandwall
Dec 23, 2002, 6:27 PM
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My first 5.9 gear lead was Penny Lane in Squamish (Smoke Bluffs). It's still one of my favourite 5.9s around. 35m, what a beauty.
Nothing's really graded 5.9+ in Squamish.
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ambler
Dec 23, 2002, 7:05 PM
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Sphincter Quits, Jay? That's a nasty one for your first 5.9. I recall backing off because I didn't like the gear right off the halfway ledge. A piton would have been nice there.
Pope's Crack offered much less resistance. Just scuffle on up.
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micronut
Dec 23, 2002, 8:31 PM
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I thought that one by Big Moe was called "hidden cornor" kinda pumpy. Middle peyote has a tough move, but is so short and not pumpy, I soloed the middle and right peyote cracks over thanksgiving, and I'm not a big solo guy. Invisibility Lessons is cake, bomb gear right there, placed from a stance, short crux, then great climbing above. Now you want hard, jump on Kaptain Kronos, 5.7, on the brown wall. It's more like a fairly sustained and kinda heady .9
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jhump
Dec 23, 2002, 10:31 PM
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Marshall's Madness, Seneca.
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 24, 2002, 3:00 PM
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I don't remeber my first 5.9, but my first 5.10 was Sober Seaman in Acadia National Park in Maine. I haven't done an outdoor 5.11, but I have been doing gym 5.11's for a couple months. My goal is to do a 5.12 by next summer. We'll see what happens.
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