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tammyvh
Oct 31, 2010, 10:27 PM
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Anyone have advice on climbing in Arkansas in December (the week of the 25th)? Suggestions? Feasible? Thanks
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pendereki
Oct 31, 2010, 10:32 PM
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Often we have good weather in december, or everything can be covered with several inches of ice. When the weather is good it can be great for climbing. Or it sucks.
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ACJ
Nov 1, 2010, 2:58 PM
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You can climb, it's just up in the air for temps/conditions. I climbed there for christmas a few years back and it was terrible leading up to christmas, then beautiful for a few days, then frigid again. I wouldn't plan a big trip for it, but if you are in the area it's worth watching the weather.
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jolery
Nov 3, 2010, 5:17 PM
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If the sun is out, December climbing is usually great - just find the south-facing crags. Without some sun, it's not nearly as warm or enjoyable, but still do-able. Christmas time may bring snow or ice, but usually is relatively mild. I climb all year round here. What part of Arkansas are you going to?
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tammyvh
Nov 3, 2010, 6:23 PM
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Jolery,
Not sure yet where in Arkansas. It's all going to depend upon weather and where I may find a climbing partner. Just planning to through my tent and dogs in the car and drive south at this point and heard Arkansas has good climbing.
Suggestions?
Tammy
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jolery
Nov 3, 2010, 7:03 PM
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Depends on what you're looking for. Finding a climbing partner without prior planning is easiest at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch near Jasper, Arkansas - mostly sport lines, lots of moderate routes, I think near 300 routes at this point. There will likely be several groups here camping even in winter, and the climbers are generally very friendly. Only problem - they have outlawed dogs. This sux and pisses me off every time I go - the private ranch has a bunch of goats for show/eating poison ivy, and herding dogs to protect them - these dogs have supposedly killed climbers' dogs in the past and now dogs aren't allowed - that said, some people still bring their dogs, just depends if you wanna potentially have to deal with 'the man'.
Sam's Throne is a great place - free camping in National Forest, probably be pretty easy to meet up with folks to climb with - this is almost exclusively trad, with some sport routes here and there. Within a few miles of Sam's are Candy Mountain and Cave Creek, both with tons of sport routes, but Candy is mainly 5.11 and up, Cave Creek mainly 5.10 and up.
Fixed Pin Publishing has put out a comprehensive climbing guidebook for Arkansas in 2009 - there are lots of other cool areas. I'm in NW Arkansas, we've got Lincoln Lake, and Shepherd Springs, both cool but not tons of routes, and mostly 5.10 and up.
Another possibility are the Wichita Mountains in SW OK - this place will be warmer than Arkansas - although mostly trad - granite slabby type climbing.
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acorneau
Nov 3, 2010, 8:01 PM
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jolery wrote: ... although mostly trad - granite slabby type climbing.
Slabby? Quartz, sure, but I think there's much more crack and face climbing then slabs at the Refuge.
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jolery
Nov 3, 2010, 8:22 PM
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it's slabby to me - the stuff I've gotten on is definitely less than vertical, unless I've just missed those areas. Unless it's completely vertical or overhanging, I call it slab, whether it's face or crack climbing. I guess my definition of slab climbing is different from yours - and may be completely inaccurate.
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acorneau
Nov 3, 2010, 8:26 PM
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jolery wrote: Unless it's completely vertical or overhanging, I call it slab...
Ah, gotcha.
Then by your definition yes, it's "slabby".
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tammyvh
Nov 8, 2010, 4:30 PM
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Great info. Thanks for all the tips. I'll probably check out Sam's Throne & Candy since I'm more of a sport climber yet (hopefully try some trad next year) and maybe get over to SW Oklahoma if there's time in the week and the weather holds up.
Again, thanks for the helpful info.
Tammy
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pendereki
Nov 9, 2010, 1:58 AM
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Ummm... Both Sam's Throne and SW Oklahoma are pretty much all trad.. If it is sport you are looking for stick with Horseshoe Canyon.
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