What'd he do to train for it?

Yeah, I got that in the video when he pretty much cruised the route. Wasn't enough to bring him up and say he was a really good climber. Had to knock someone (me in this case) down a peg.

I'm gonna guess your job either involves little interaction with people or enough interaction that it pisses you off and you take it out on others. That or you don't realise your backhanded comments make you sound like an ass.

Ergo, people are making fun of you for having a casual attitude about one of the scariest climbs in California America.

...Since you are claiming to be a better climber than you are, any statement about the claim being false necessarily implies that you're not as good a climber as you think you are. If that offends you it is your own fault for having a grossly inflated opinion of your climbing ability.


This is the second blatant, false, and desperate ad hominem attack you've made against me in this thread.

Jay

This ain't debate team buddy. There's no winning here. If you actually read what I wrote I said 5.11a was at the edge of my comfort level for onsighting and that it'd be cool to check the route out (ie look at it). This was in response to someone saying that J.B. himself said it wasn't harder than 5.11a. When you asked if I seriously thought I was capable of leading it I said I might be near capable but definately not ready. That was a no in case you didn't catch it. Reading comprehension can be tricky.

You and all the other people who can't read decided you had to jump in and tell me how dumb I was for even thinking I had so much as a chance of leading it.

Then I used the word "cusp" which you seem very focused on for some reason while in the same sentence I also said, "given what I know about the route".

Is the route so far out of my league to make it silly to think about it in the next few years. Eh, maybe.

Climbing tends to self correct those who reach too far beyond what they should.

I know my abilities very well and regardless of whether I mispoke about being "near capable" of climbing it I'd know as soon as I looked at it in person how close or far it was from my abilities.

I don't need some egotistical sport climber who flails his way up 5.12 to tell me what I can and can't do. Get a life.

Adjusted that for ya!

Having not climbed the route it's not yet a fact that I can't climb it. While it's highly likely that I can't, it is not yet a fact. Though I never said I could.

I don't need to see you climb to tell you that just from what I've read in this thread, you are nowhere near capable of leading this route.

Although I don't think anyone who has posted in this thread is either.

I for one think he can do it.

Jeremiah, don't listen to these guys, you can do anything you set your mind to. It'd be sweet if you didn't do a bunch of specialized training and beta research either, go old school with it. Just be sure to line up a cameraman because these guys will never take your word for it. That and the rest of us would definitely like to see the footage.

Get on that shit!

Not to disparage your post, as I can certainly sympathize with your sentiments, but I've tried my damnedest not to make the "you're right; go for it" post. After all, it's an R/X route that is orders of magnitude beyond this n00b's ability. However, I have to admit that the more he piles on the incessant ad hominem attacks the harder it is for me to resist making the "go for it" post. As awful as it is to admit, there might just be a level of abuse beyond which I'm willing to suggest that someone do something that could cost them life or limb that, out of there own ignorance and arrogance, they believe they are competent to do.

Jay

Once again, there's a difference between a belief and reality. Just because I believe it is something I could do in the future doesn't mean I'd just go out there and do it without trying some of the other testpieces that probably come in line before it. What is it that makes you think you're so much better than everyone else?

Pretty sure the entire basis of your argument that I can't do it is just because you think I'm a noob, an ad hominem attack in itself. Maybe you should read my post above.

According to Jan (Andrew's second), Andrew spent nine months of dedicated training to lead the Bachar–Yerian. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that if I spent a full year of training dedicated to leading just that route that I could do it. You too, maybe in less time.

Jay

It's less about the whole miscommunication thing and more about people telling others what they can and can't climb.

For someone, anyone, to talk down to other climbers just gets under my skin. It's one thing to caution someone and suggest they look into something like that a little more carefully. It's entirely different to basically berate them about how they have no idea what they're talking about.

I don't believe to just be an annoyance, I think it's detrimental to the sport as a whole to have that elitist crap floating around. Not to say I'm without guilt but I don't make a habit of it.