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Murdock


Jan 6, 2011, 8:24 PM
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Sport Climbing in SoCal?  (North_America: United_States: California)
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Quick, easy question: Being new to the area, are there any killer sport climbing areas within driving distance of Orange County? (especially w/ multipitch)

As alluded to in other threads, I'm building my trad rack, but in the mean time I've got my sport gear just sitting here, watching me...


trenchdigger


Jan 6, 2011, 8:33 PM
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Re: [Murdock] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Closest is probably Riverside Quarry.
Williamson Rock is a good option if it ever gets reopened.
Malibu Creek.
Echo Cliffs.
And in San Diego, you've got multipitch (up to 5 or 6 pitches) granite sport at El Cajon Mountain, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera.


(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Jan 6, 2011, 8:34 PM)


Murdock


Jan 6, 2011, 8:44 PM
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Re: [trenchdigger] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Is there any multipitch at New Jack City? I don't mind driving a few hours and I hear it's a cool area...


Murdock


Jan 6, 2011, 8:53 PM
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Re: [trenchdigger] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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trenchdigger wrote:
Closest is probably Riverside Quarry.
Williamson Rock is a good option if it ever gets reopened.
Malibu Creek.
Echo Cliffs.
And in San Diego, you've got multipitch (up to 5 or 6 pitches) granite sport at El Cajon Mountain, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera.

Thanks TD. Any suggestions for "classic" multipitch routes in those SD areas that aren't too hard? (say, 5.10 or below) I'm taking a friend climbing in a couple weekends.


snoopy138


Jan 6, 2011, 9:42 PM
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Re: [Murdock] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Murdock wrote:
trenchdigger wrote:
Closest is probably Riverside Quarry.
Williamson Rock is a good option if it ever gets reopened.
Malibu Creek.
Echo Cliffs.
And in San Diego, you've got multipitch (up to 5 or 6 pitches) granite sport at El Cajon Mountain, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera.

Thanks TD. Any suggestions for "classic" multipitch routes in those SD areas that aren't too hard? (say, 5.10 or below) I'm taking a friend climbing in a couple weekends.

Leonids at El Cajon is 3 (?) pitches of 5.9. Manana, I think, is a few pitches right next to Leonids and goes at 10something. Not sure how much of the latter route isn't chopped at the moment, though.

There are two pitch routes at Echo, but they suck and the first pitch is really closer to class 4.

There's nothing multipitch at new jack, at least that I'm aware of.


trenchdigger


Jan 7, 2011, 8:19 AM
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Re: [Murdock] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Yah, as mentioned, at El Cajon Mountain, Leonids is 5.9 and 3 pitches. Thers's another called "Buffalo Brothers" which is 5.8 and 2 pitches.

Eagle Peak has "Rock Jungle" which is 5.10a & 5 pitches long (5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.8). "Cruise Line" is another easier option at an easy 5.10c and 5 pitches (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10c ,5.10b).

Corte Madera doesn't have much in the easy 5.10-range for multi-pitch, but has some great single pitch routes in the 5.9 to easy 5.10 range.

Most of the multi-pitch routes under 5.10 are at least partially gear protected at these crags.

Info about these three crags can be found in the ACSD San Diego Climbing Pocket Guide.

Be aware that each of these areas has a substantial approach - much longer than New Jack, Malibu, Holcomb... El Cajon Mountain is about 2mi with 1800' of elevation gain, usually taking about an hour. Corte Madera and Eagle Peak are a bit shorter, taking 30-40 minutes. All are remote, backcountry crags that feel more like "adventure" climbing than sport climbing.

Also, it's worth noting that Eagle Peak and Corte Madera generally have Raptor Nesting Advisories that cover a portion of the crag from around February through May. The ACSD works diligently with the CNF to ensure these advisory areas to ensure they'll meet the needs of the nesting birds while minimizing impact on recreation. Please refer to the ACSD website for info about advisories. http://www.alliedclimbers.org

Hope that helps!
Adam


Murdock


Jan 7, 2011, 9:36 AM
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Re: [trenchdigger] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Yeah that help a lot, thanks! Is Leonids usually pretty crowded on a long weekend? That sounds like a fun one to take my friend up


trenchdigger


Jan 7, 2011, 9:45 AM
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Re: [Murdock] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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The crag doesn't see a huge amount of traffic, so it's a crap shoot. It's the most climbed route there. At any rate, you probably wouldn't be waiting too long to get on it.


alpinismo_flujo


Jan 7, 2011, 5:01 PM
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Re: [Murdock] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Have you bought Troy's So Cal Sport Climbing Guide?

http://www.rei.com/product/730656

REI online say out of stock but I've seen it recently in store and maybe Sport Chalet. Either way easy to find.

PS Welcome to OC


deBrice


Apr 22, 2011, 8:41 AM
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Re: [alpinismo_flujo] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Do you have it ? I was wondering, if you have it, if there is any 5.8-5.9 multipitch inside this guide ? (I can't get to find any preview)

I already have the Santa Monicas Mountains guide, describing sport, boulder and few trad routes. This might be THE missing piece for someone like me who lives in Los Angeles.


kennoyce


Apr 22, 2011, 9:28 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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deBrice wrote:
Do you have it ? I was wondering, if you have it, if there is any 5.8-5.9 multipitch inside this guide ? (I can't get to find any preview)

I already have the Santa Monicas Mountains guide, describing sport, boulder and few trad routes. This might be THE missing piece for someone like me who lives in Los Angeles.

I have the book, but unfortunately I'm at work right now so I can't look at it for you. If you want to get a copy, I know I saw it in stock at the REI in Rancho Cucamonga last Saturday.

If you are ever looking for a partner for the quarry or somewhere, shoot me a PM.


deBrice


Apr 22, 2011, 10:21 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Thank you Kennoyce. I was planning on a trip to Echo cliff next week end probably. I'll let you know. I found the book online on amazon, I'll probably order there. Let me know when you have a chance to look at the book, I'm dying to find some good multipitch in the area !

See you soon on the wall ;-)


penlock


Sep 27, 2013, 11:24 PM
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Re: [deBrice] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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Hi. LaughLaugh


(This post was edited by penlock on Sep 27, 2013, 11:31 PM)


rontymonty


Sep 30, 2013, 12:54 PM
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Re: [penlock] Sport Climbing in SoCal? [In reply to]
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