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rockandsnowjunkie
Jan 27, 2011, 9:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2009
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Hello fellow climbers and JTree savants.
I'm finally making my first pilgrimage to JTree this spring and have a few questions i'm game to get answered.
As a backgrounder, I'm looking to climb mostly trad (or mixed)lines (would love to hit some classic crack routes), and am leading solidly in the 10's (I appreciate the variation in the YDS grading pan-N/America) - so that said lets give it a range of 9's to 11's.
1)First off, given the 8000+ routes across the park, I'm looking to concentrate my efforts - bang for buck value basically.
Given the above trip goals any suggestions? Areas? Routes? Crags?
2)I'm looking to get a guide book, now, having read much about the variousl options it seems clear that Vogel's books are the tickets. Tha said, it seems as if his original, which encompasses the entire park, is too exhaustive and not very specific, and thus not the best choice for a first timer to the area.
So, I know that he has made expanded versions that cover various sectors of the park and thier climbs.
I'm looking for some guindance as to where I should concentrate my climbing given a two-week time window, and thus what guidebook (s) to get?
3)Having read much about the camping options in the Park could someone suggest the optimal site? Also, what is the likihood of getting a site given their popularity. This decision will likely be contingent on the guidance on where to concentrate my climbing within the park.
Thank you all for your help!
Happy Climbing!
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trenchdigger
Jan 27, 2011, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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rockandsnowjunkie wrote: 1)First off, given the 8000+ routes across the park, I'm looking to concentrate my efforts - bang for buck value basically. Given the above trip goals any suggestions? Areas? Routes? Crags?
Mountainproject.com has a great search tool for this kind of stuff, in addition to the occasional thread here, on mountainproject, or on supertopo about the "best cracks in Joshua Tree".
rockandsnowjunkie wrote: 2)I'm looking to get a guide book, now, having read much about the variousl options it seems clear that Vogel's books are the tickets. Tha said, it seems as if his original, which encompasses the entire park, is too exhaustive and not very specific, and thus not the best choice for a first timer to the area. So, I know that he has made expanded versions that cover various sectors of the park and thier climbs. I'm looking for some guindance as to where I should concentrate my climbing given a two-week time window, and thus what guidebook (s) to get?
The older version (complete) of the vogel guide is probably the best if you want to get just one book. Another option could be the "Joshua Tree Classics" guide, but it's very limited in scope. The JTree West guide will give you more detail about the routes and will include more obscure ones, but at the cost of not including the whole park.
rockandsnowjunkie wrote: 3)Having read much about the camping options in the Park could someone suggest the optimal site? Also, what is the likihood of getting a site given their popularity. This decision will likely be contingent on the guidance on where to concentrate my climbing within the park.
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enigma
Jan 27, 2011, 11:29 PM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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rockandsnowjunkie wrote: Hello fellow climbers and JTree savants. I'm finally making my first pilgrimage to JTree this spring and have a few questions i'm game to get answered. As a backgrounder, I'm looking to climb mostly trad (or mixed)lines (would love to hit some classic crack routes), and am leading solidly in the 10's (I appreciate the variation in the YDS grading pan-N/America) - so that said lets give it a range of 9's to 11's. 1)First off, given the 8000+ routes across the park, I'm looking to concentrate my efforts - bang for buck value basically. Given the above trip goals any suggestions? Areas? Routes? Crags? 2)I'm looking to get a guide book, now, having read much about the variousl options it seems clear that Vogel's books are the tickets. Tha said, it seems as if his original, which encompasses the entire park, is too exhaustive and not very specific, and thus not the best choice for a first timer to the area. So, I know that he has made expanded versions that cover various sectors of the park and thier climbs. I'm looking for some guindance as to where I should concentrate my climbing given a two-week time window, and thus what guidebook (s) to get? 3)Having read much about the camping options in the Park could someone suggest the optimal site? Also, what is the likihood of getting a site given their popularity. This decision will likely be contingent on the guidance on where to concentrate my climbing within the park. Thank you all for your help! Happy Climbing!
I would suggest guide books from Nomad Ventures in this case.
They have some books by Bartlett that divide up the areas to climb in the park.
There are many books with classic climbs and starred ratings, or popular climbs. Some give more beta.
It also depends if you don't mind a longer approach, there are some great climbs in the Wonderland of Rocks as well. Less crowds.
You can call them on the phone or wait till you go to Joshua Tree and check it out.
Obviously there are many options and areas, as far as a specific site, generally Hidden Valley is the most popular.
Real Hidden Valley is a short walk nearby.
Camping is often full in Hidden Valley.
You can also go on a website and some areas allow reservations in advance.
Good Luck
(This post was edited by enigma on Jan 27, 2011, 11:33 PM)
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erisspirit
Jan 27, 2011, 11:42 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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hidden valley campground is nice because it's smack in the middle of a lot of climbing. The downside is it can be busy.
I have had a ton of fun on some of the routes on sports challenge wall in real hidden valley.
a bit further away, but also had a blast last time in Connan's Corridor. (also a little tougher to find than ones right off the road, but there was a sign last time I was there)
we usually just decide at the last minute in the morning, and pick a wall for the day, so hopefully someone might have some better advice on the must climbs
Have Fun!!!
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baja_java
Jan 28, 2011, 12:50 AM
Post #5 of 11
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 680
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the new Joshua Tree West guidebook is the first of a three-volume set, and is the only one that has been published so far. it covers North Wonderland, Quail Springs, Lost Horse, Hidden Valley and Real Hidden Valley, The Outback, and the numerous formations along Park Blvd from the West Entrance to Hidden Valley Campground. there are literally many, many months of nonstop climbing in this section of the park alone, even if you're mostly into cracks. so, getting this book would more than meet your two-week need, and worthwhile if you plan to climb at JTree again in the future
as for the rest of the park, if you're an affable enough guy, you can always hook up with other climbers who might have the older comprehensive guidebook or any of the thinner Bartlett guides that cover the other areas of the park. walk around the campground in the evenings and on off-days and tell people how rad their climbing is or what wonderful human beings they are. explore the rest of the park with them, or borrow their book on their rest day, etc. you might not need to buy a book at all if you can do this and make do on the other days with downloaded pages from the route database here or from MountainProject. i hear you can also rent the old comprehensive guidebook from Joshua Tree Outfitters
Hidden Valley Campground is closest to the areas covered in Joshua Tree West, and most popular, bec it's within walking distance of the many formations around that campground, The Outback, and Real Hidden Valley. if you plan your trip so that you can arrive on a weekday, you should be able to get a campsite there. finding an open site Fri night or Sat morning would be a challenge, and sometimes highly unlikely. next closest is Ryan Campground, then Jumbo Campground even further on
some possible days of cracks covered by Joshua Tree West:
White Cliffs Of Dover/Hound Rock: Popular Mechanics (9), Ace of Spades (9), Jack Of Heart (9), Digital Watch (11b), Make Or Break Flake (10b), Red Snapper (11a/b), Soviet Union (11c), Tossed Green (10a), Right Baskerville Crack (10b)
Hemmingway/IRS/Banana Crack: Overseer (9), Poodles Are People Too (10b), Prepackaged (10a), Scary Poodle (11b), Head Over Heels (10a), Tax Man (10a), Pat Adam's Dihedral (11c), Left Banana Crack (10b), Right Banana Crack (11a), Uncle Fester (10d), Right Mel Crack (10c), Left Mel Crack (10c)
Roadside Rocks: Coarse And Buggy (11a), Fire Or Retire (10c), Watanobe Wall (10a)
Lost Horse Freeway/Rock Garden: Rock Candy (9), Split Personality (9), Spitwad (10a), Nobody Walks In LA (9), Anacram (10c)
Lost Horse Wall: Bird On A Wire (10a, 2-3 pitches), Dappled Mare (8, 2-3 pitches)
Lost Horse Station: Imaginary Voyage (10d), Hercules (11c), Blues Brothers (10a), Rhythm And Blues (10b), Out Of The Blue (11a), Flawless Fissure (9), Friendly Hands (10b), Fiendish Fist (9)
Hidden Valley and Outback: North Overhang (9), Lower Right Ski Track (10c), Left Ski Track (11a), Dogleg (9), Orphan (9), Dandelion (10a), Bearded Cabbage (10c), Spiderline (11c), Damper (9), Strawberry Jam (9), Looney Tunes (9), Hot Rocks (11c), Rollerball (10b), A Woman's Work Is Never Done (10c), The Orc (10a), Super Roof (9), Sidewinder (10b), Jumping Jack Crack (11a), Hobbit Roof (10d)
Real Hidden Valley: Ball Bearing (10a, 1 or 2 pitches), Western Saga (9, 2 pitches), Illusion Dweller (10b), Tumbling Rainbow (9), Fisticuffs (10b), Broken Glass (10a/b), Semi Tough (10d), Martin Quits (10c), Sphincter Quits (9), Championship Wrestling (10a), Clean And Jerk (10c/11a), Captain Kronos (9), Jerry Brown (10b), Brownian Motion (10a), Pachyderm To Paradise (9), Kemosabe And Tonto (9+)
possible days of cracks in other areas of park:
Echo Rock: Touch And Go (9), Pope's Crack (9), Heart And Sole (10a), Effigy Too (10a/b), O'Kelley's Crack (10c/11a), Wangerbanger (11c), Norwegian Wood (9), More Monkey Than Funky (11b/c)
Hall of Horrors: Exorcist (10a), Aero Space (10a/b), Heart of Darkness (11a), Grit Roof (11a)
Split Rock: Bird Of Fire (10a), couple of the corridor cracks (9, 10a), Wedlock (11a), Rubicon (10c)
Geology Tour Rd: Light Sabre (10b), Cedric's Seafood Market (10d), Perpetual Motion (10d)
Conon's Corridor and vicinity: Colorado Crack (9), Spiderman (10a), Nuke The Whale (9)
South Wonderland: High Strung (9), Ricecake Roof (10c), Room To Shroom (9), Chemical Warfare (10b)
Emerald City: The Rattler (10c), Baby Rattler (9), Snake Book (10d)
others will have their fav's too. and there're other areas like Queen Mtn, and more on the east side of the park
hope that helps
Sean
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byran
Jan 28, 2011, 1:03 AM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 266
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The Astro Domes are the premier formations in the park. They're about a 30 minute hike out in the S Wonderland. Not terribly hard to find since they're so big and obvious.
Saddle Rocks is another one of the best formations. Lots of good 2 pitch slab climbs going up it. Walk on the Wild Side is the super popular 5.8, but the routes near it are just as good and rarely done.
It's harder to find a good clump of crack climbs all together. Probably the best would be to warm up on Pope's Crack and Touch & Go, then go do O'Kelley's and Wangerbanger.
Or you could drive down Geology tour road and do Lightsabre, Cedrics, Between a Rock and a Hard Place, Perpetual Motion, and then hike over and put a toprope on Equinox.
(This post was edited by byran on Jan 28, 2011, 1:07 AM)
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donald949
Jan 28, 2011, 8:26 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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In addition to the Mountain Project data base, you can cruise RC's here. Both have their advantages.
I was going to link Todd Gordon's web site which is a good place to get a bunch of good well organized info w/o being weighed down by 8k climbs, but it looks like it was just taken down. 
So I guess I should say was.
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fredbob
Jan 29, 2011, 11:58 PM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
Posts: 455
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When this Spring are you thinking of heading out to Josh? If in March or after, this is the book for you:
Classic Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering
Out this Spring.
575pp, Full Color.
500 Routes, 185 Boulder Problems.
Most routes/problems 5.7 to 5.11+; V0 to V5/6
In an ideal universe, a climbing guide should provide you with sufficient information to not only find each route, but give you the kind of in-depth information about the climbs, boulders and area that only “locals” possess. Such a guide would be like having a personal guided tour, replete with the “inside” stories about the climbs and problems – the type only heard around a campfire. This was the concept for this guide.
The dilemma in translating this idea into an actual book was where to draw the line. How many routes and boulder problems can you reasonably cover in such detail? What type of climbs and problems to include (and exclude)? How much detail is too much? Who are the people who mostly use and need such a guidebook?
The upshot of balancing these factors was a guide directed toward as many climbers as possible, but not everyone. This was accomplished by: (1) Excluding most of the hardest and easiest routes and problems (which are of interest to a relatively small percentage of climbers), (2) Concentrating on crags and boulders that are reasonably accessible, and (3) Focusing on problems and routes that are both high in quality and fun.
The result is nearly 500 great routes which mostly lie in the 5.7 to 5.11 range (there are some easier and harder climbs included), and 185 classic boulder problems that fall mostly in the range of V0 to V5 (though again harder and easier problems are included). These routes, problems, crags and boulders are described in unprecedented detail. Each is the subject of a large full color photograph(s), detailed maps, and comprehensive verbal descriptions (including: sun/shade info, detailed approach and descents, gear selections, etc.). Superbly detailed topos are also included for larger crags.
While these features alone come closer to the ideal guidebook, it is the inclusion of an unparalleled number of never published, first person stories, by dozens of different first ascentionists, as well as historical tidbits about origins of names and the Joshua Tree area, that really make this guide such a joy to use and peruse. **
This guide will be the perfect companion for the seasoned climber who thought they knew Joshua Tree as well as those new to the area (and most everyone in-between).
**(Note: Includes stories by: Rick Accomazzo, John Bachar, Nick Badyrka, Phil Broscovak, Keith Cunning, Dave Evans, Craig Fry, Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, Richard Harrison, Tom Higgins, Herb Laeger, Spencer Lennard, John Long, Jon Lonne, Jan McCollum, Darryl Nakahira, Allan Nelson, Michael Paul, Kevin Powell, Mark Powell, Tim Powell, Jeff Sewell, Dick Shockley, Wendell Smith, Woody Stark, Russ Walling, Jim Wilson, John Wolfe, and Kevin Worrall.)
Photos Contributors to the guide include: Kevin Powell, Jim Thornburg, Greg Epperson, Kyle Thomas, Leslie Timms, Michael Clark, Bill Serniuk, Andy Blair, Brad Gobright, Dave Cox, Matthew Feinup, Todd Gordon, Holden Harris, Adam Dale, Catherine Carrasco, Art Morimitso, Nicole Svajlenka, and Bill Freeman.
(This post was edited by fredbob on Jan 30, 2011, 12:04 AM)
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socalclimber
Jan 30, 2011, 12:44 AM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437
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rockandsnowjunkie wrote: Hello fellow climbers and JTree savants. I'm finally making my first pilgrimage to JTree this spring and have a few questions i'm game to get answered. As a backgrounder, I'm looking to climb mostly trad (or mixed)lines (would love to hit some classic crack routes), and am leading solidly in the 10's (I appreciate the variation in the YDS grading pan-N/America) - so that said lets give it a range of 9's to 11's. 1)First off, given the 8000+ routes across the park, I'm looking to concentrate my efforts - bang for buck value basically. Given the above trip goals any suggestions? Areas? Routes? Crags? 2)I'm looking to get a guide book, now, having read much about the variousl options it seems clear that Vogel's books are the tickets. Tha said, it seems as if his original, which encompasses the entire park, is too exhaustive and not very specific, and thus not the best choice for a first timer to the area. So, I know that he has made expanded versions that cover various sectors of the park and thier climbs. I'm looking for some guindance as to where I should concentrate my climbing given a two-week time window, and thus what guidebook (s) to get? 3)Having read much about the camping options in the Park could someone suggest the optimal site? Also, what is the likihood of getting a site given their popularity. This decision will likely be contingent on the guidance on where to concentrate my climbing within the park. Thank you all for your help! Happy Climbing!
Fredbbob (Randy Vogel) gave you about the best advice you're going to get. The only thing I can add is that "spring" could mean problems in terms of camping. Spring break now seems to encompass a much longer spread of time than it used too. Now it spans at least a month. This makes finding a camp site a really difficult chore.
Quick edit:
Sorry Randy, not trying to carve into future guide book sales, but if you are here a limited period of time, you can rent guide books (The Vogel Guide) from Joshua Tree Outfitters. Excellent people, great shop for all sorts of things.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jan 30, 2011, 1:20 AM)
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fredbob
Jan 30, 2011, 1:47 AM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
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In reply to: Sorry Randy, not trying to carve into future guide book sales, but if you are here a limited period of time, you can rent guide books (The Vogel Guide) from Joshua Tree Outfitters. Excellent people, great shop for all sorts of things.
Absolutely, Joshua Tree Outfitters is highly recommended. They rent out all kinds of handy items (camping, cooking, bouldering pads, guidebooks, etc.) so if you are traveling by airplane, you can call them and rent items you don't have to haul through airports... which is a pain now-days.
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jt512
Jan 30, 2011, 8:32 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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fredbob wrote: Photos Contributors to the guide include: Kevin Powell, Jim Thornburg, Greg Epperson, Kyle Thomas, Leslie Timms, Michael Clark, Bill Serniuk, Andy Blair, Brad Gobright, Dave Cox, Matthew Feinup, Todd Gordon, Holden Harris, Adam Dale, Catherine Carrasco, Art Morimitso, Nicole Svajlenka, and Bill Freeman.
s/b Art Morimitsu, I suspect.
Jay
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