|
ramones
Jun 14, 2001, 4:43 PM
Post #1 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2001
Posts: 14
|
I have seen DYNO posted on some routes where you have to jump to the next hold. I was wondering What that stands for because it looks like an acronym
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
russman
Jun 15, 2001, 1:10 AM
Post #2 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2000
Posts: 2848
|
I agree with wulwulwul. I too do not "for sure" know the source...but I think I remember hearing something like Dynamic something or another. Most of the time if you are doing a DYNO right...it is not jsut a jump...you are probably bending you knees and trying to get as much liftoff force as possible...and when you jump that 3-4 feet to that big slopper or jug or good ledge...and finally get your witts back...you are feeling DYNAMIC:) I have felt that too. Hasta The Russman
|
|
|
|
|
fiend
Jun 18, 2001, 11:48 PM
Post #3 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669
|
Dyno is short for Dynamic
for Dyno technique check out
8a.nu
theres a dyno tutorial on there somewhere (near bottom, right column I think)
-mark
[ This Message was edited by: fiend on 2001-06-18 16:50 ]
|
|
|
|
|
ramones
Jun 20, 2001, 7:08 PM
Post #4 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2001
Posts: 14
|
Thanks alot
|
|
|
|
|
fiend
Jul 15, 2001, 6:52 PM
Post #5 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669
|
I totally dissagree. Dynoing is(should) never be an out of control movement and shouldn't be considered a last resort. Sometimes throwing for a hold is quicker and less energy consuming than trying to do it static. Dynoing is a completely valid technique and is utilized by all of the world's top climbers, whether they be on trad, sport or bouldering.
|
|
|
|
|
wandt
Jul 15, 2001, 11:01 PM
Post #6 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341
|
Definately. A lot of the best bouldering routes out there involve, if not entirely, primarily dynos.
Action Direct is one dyno after another, simply because it is a physical impossibility to static those reaches. Same thing with Jaws (a Dave Graham 5.14).
Dyno's aren't just deadpoints either. If there is a route (probably a boulder route) with "dyno" on it, chances are you have to actually let go and launch yourself at the next hold. These are really fun! My indoor record is 2.2 metres matching hand hold to matching hand hold.
I'd suggest perfecting your technique in the gym with plenty of padding before trying it outside, though.
For awesome dyno's, check out www.smackmag.com They have a bunch in the last week of December 2000. The vids should still be there.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Jul 16, 2001, 12:15 AM
Post #7 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
The control involved in a dyno is the same as with any other move. Would you gaston without rope or crashpad if you were sketchin'? I agree though, that dynamic moves can be a last resort, but I also think the technique is as important in the sport as the crimp.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Jul 16, 2001, 1:41 AM
Post #8 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
Deadpoint no airborne. Airborne fun, take talent. Do some V3+ dynos and tell me that controlling unlimited factors such as aerodynamics, hight, air speed velocity, supressing upchuck rflex (if you miss at a good hight), and impressing the ladies (or guys if you're a woman) is not a diciplined endevour.
|
|
|
|
|
wandt
Jul 16, 2001, 9:33 AM
Post #9 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341
|
There's space in every sport for ego! If you do something well, at some point humility becomes false humility. Ego can be an extention of self confindence. Embrace it as part of yourself. And go do some dynos.
Dynoing is all about commitment. As a traddie one would think that you would resign static moves to the weak, as with a static move you can always go back to where you just were. Once you launch a big dyno, you may brush your old holds again... on your earthbound trip.
Would I dyno without a crashpad: Hell yeah! On one of the big dynos at Murrin (I may post the problem. We'll see.) I prefer no crash pad, as you launch somewhat diagonally and depending on how you miss, you may well land on the edge of the pad. My still-smarting ankle can attest to how much fun that is.
Kriso.. deadpoints are no fun? Come on out to BC and we'll play some add-on; see if we can't change that point of view.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Jul 18, 2001, 7:43 AM
Post #10 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
I don't understand what dynos would be if not a controlled skill. Luck?
If you're an egotistical person, then crimping is all about your ego. Dyno's can be flashy, but real climbers appreciate any skilled move whatever it is.
I didn't say dead points weren't fun, It's actually one of the most satisfying moves. I just also have an appreciation for the supprised sensation I get every time a new dyno goes down.
I'll see you in B.C. sometime anyways. I bound to get back there sooner or later (preferrably sooner).
[ This Message was edited by: kriso9tails on 2001-07-18 00:52 ]
|
|
|
|
|
marcsv
Aug 3, 2001, 9:07 AM
Post #11 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2001
Posts: 358
|
i'll do it if it will get the job done
|
|
|
|
|
pianomahnn
Aug 6, 2001, 5:36 PM
Post #12 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2001
Posts: 3779
|
I like dynoing. It's fun stuff. Just flying to the next hold. WOOHOO
|
|
|
|
|
boulder_chalk
Aug 16, 2001, 2:35 AM
Post #13 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2001
Posts: 29
|
You could talk forever on this subject, dynos are simple becoming more popular and more and more will continue to use them. i totally agree with someone earlier in the post that said that if the dyno is there and you could hit the dyno instead of climbing the section, by all means try to push the limit and hit the dyno. Then again this is all my opinion, do what you do, climb on!!
|
|
|
|
|
rck_climber
Aug 28, 2001, 5:44 PM
Post #14 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2001
Posts: 1010
|
I completely disagree, it's not just an ego boost, or a show-off move. It can be, especially in the gym, but outdoors where nobody but your belayer is watching (whom you don't care much to impress anyway) a dyno is a great and valid move that takes alot of practice to hit consistently. Being a little on the short side (ok, alot on the short side), I find that I often have to find intermediate holds from what my partners do, and many times, there just aren't any - thus a dyno is in order. Would I do it without a rope, only when bouldering and I'm not too high; without a crashpad, yeah, only with a good spot from a partner. I've spent 7 years perfecting my dynos, but nobody hits them all - I'm not trying to die, just flirting with it.
Mick
|
|
|
|
|
wandt
Aug 28, 2001, 7:27 PM
Post #15 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341
|
Outdoor dyno's are hard, but so much more rewarding than indoor dyno's. There are some unreal dyno's in Fontainebleau. And at a bouldering comp. in Trier another climber and I started dicking around just dynoing to stuff for the hell of it, one of the judges watched us, and gave us points for it!!! (I still got my ass handed to me, but that's OK. I got a T-shirt.)
As a 6'2" two-hand dunker I love launching for holds way the hell out there. Even if it's just bouldering by myself at home at 3 a.m. I like doing the big flashy dyno's. I also like skipping sections of route in the gym. Especially if the route setter is belaying me. Heh heh heh. Dyno's have so many uses.
|
|
|
|
|
jds100
Sep 4, 2001, 4:01 PM
Post #16 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008
|
A quick note: deadpointing is NOT dynoing. Dynoing is leaving the rock completely, propelling oneself -using arm and leg strength- to the next hold, off the rock. Deadpointing is the hybrid between static and dynamic climbing, because you keep contact with the rock. The climber still gets body-weight momentum moving in the desired direction, but only at the apex -the fraction of a second when the climber is neither moving up nor down- does the climber latch the target hold. The hand or arm can begin moving toward that hold a little before that apex -the deadpoint- if that hand or arm is not crucial to generating momentum throughout the move. Most typically, the feet don't leave the rock, but in any case, some contact with the rock is maintained.
Also, deadpoints and dynos can save significant energy over the length of a climb by bypassing brutal crimpy lockoffs, etc.
[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-09-04 09:04 ]
|
|
|
|
|
5.13leadsalot
Deleted
Sep 7, 2001, 2:50 AM
Post #17 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I think dynoing is a must in climbing because of all the adrenaline it gives you and that free flying feeling!!!!!!!!!!!!
-Mike
_________________
[ This Message was edited by: 5.13leadsalot on 2001-09-06 19:56 ]
|
|
|
|
|
5.13leadsalot
Deleted
Sep 7, 2001, 2:55 AM
Post #18 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Also it's awsomely fun to do!I think it's one of the funnist moves in rock climbing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
pianomahnn
Sep 7, 2001, 6:48 AM
Post #19 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2001
Posts: 3779
|
Dyno-ing is only a must when it's the best option.
I love dynos.
|
|
|
|
|
spodski
Sep 11, 2001, 7:02 AM
Post #20 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 99
|
i was just gonna suggest www.8a.nu articule about how to do dyno's
|
|
|
|
|
andy_lemon
Sep 13, 2001, 7:23 PM
Post #21 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2001
Posts: 3335
|
Ego... yes, dynos rock.
|
|
|
|
|
pianomahnn
Sep 13, 2001, 9:09 PM
Post #22 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2001
Posts: 3779
|
stigonrock...
LEGS!!! They are VERY important in dynos. Strong legs are a must. Strong quads and calfs. Not everyone is built for dynos. It is something you could work at, but just might never be good at. Don't worry if you're not good at them. There are thousands upon thousands of climbs that never need dynos. And only a few that require them.
|
|
|
|
|
wachy
Nov 15, 2001, 2:25 AM
Post #23 of 30
(7133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2001
Posts: 61
|
I've found dynos and deadpoints to be very useful because I'm only 5'6" and have short arms proportional to my body. I'm ALWAYS a few inches a way from the next hold. Plus I'm built for dynamic moves... I used to play volleyball and have really strong legs and "twitch" muscles.
The important thing to remember when dynoing is that the start of it is AWAY from the wall. It's one of the only times in rockclimbing where you actually want to move your hips away from the wall. I've also found that if you focus on the muscles to use, you'll be out of control and mess up.
Use your hips... it'll force you to use the right muscles and get the right motion. Also be careful about banging your knees-- I do this all the time in the gym because holds stick out where they shouldn't .
More tips: Know your strength. When I first started dynoing, I'd constantly pass the hold a little. So my body would be a little higher than it should be--passing my hands-- and I'd be trying to slow down with my arms. Used a lot of energy and I kept falling off. You have to learn to end up at the perfect height, which is the apex of your jump.
The first few times you do it, you'll feel like you're throwing yourself at the hold. But after awhile you feel like you're flying. You catch the hold right when you're weightless (which begins to feel like a really long time) and then feel like you're attaching yourself to the wall. It's a great feeling.
I saw this guy at the gym dyno off of two hands to a one hand catch. The catch was at least 8 feet from where his hands started. It was really really cool.
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Nov 15, 2001, 2:51 AM
Post #24 of 30
(6517 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Static movement requires much better technique than Dynamic movement, therefore Static is better style.
Deadpoints have their place when holds are out of reach, but Static is the grace. In climbing, the whole idea is to climb a route or problem with efficiency and as little effort as possible. This is why technique is so much more important than power.
Just my opinion,
rrrADAM
|
|
|
|
|
woodse
Nov 15, 2001, 3:58 AM
Post #25 of 30
(6515 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2001
Posts: 625
|
I find it sooooo funny that a group of climbers can find anything and everything to disagree on!!!!! What would I do w/out rockclimbing.com??? By the way I think a dynamic move is as much a part of climbing as the rock........so there.
woodsE
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
