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mrbaksh
Feb 14, 2011, 4:02 AM
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Well, I will be climbing high-up this fall and making preps. I was wondering what would be a good impact force rope to buy. I just bought the PMI Synergy (green thing) rope. After purchasing however, I noticed the impact force is "only" 7.7kNs. I'm not expecting to fall often but if/when i do, maybe 20+ Ft of air. Did I make the right choice? I assume not, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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dugl33
Feb 14, 2011, 4:40 AM
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mrbaksh wrote: Well, I will be climbing high-up this fall and making preps. I was wondering what would be a good impact force rope to buy. I just bought the PMI Synergy (green thing) rope. After purchasing however, I noticed the impact force is "only" 7.7kNs. I'm not expecting to fall often but if/when i do, maybe 20+ Ft of air. Did I make the right choice? I assume not, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
9.9 mm seems a bit skinny for big wall abuse. But what exactly is your concern regarding impact force? Generally lower impact forces mean a softer stop and less force on the gear, which is good, but also means more rope stretch, which is bad if you hit something you wouldn't have otherwise.
People are generally looking for beefy ropes that can take a lot of abuse for walls. Tough sheaths, low working elongation, etc. Your rope sounds like a good sport climbing rope but not the best big wall rope.
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mrbaksh
Feb 14, 2011, 4:46 AM
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dugl33: I just needed another climbers take on my choice. I think I'd rather go for the bulkier rope with a higher impact force. Thanks
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moose_droppings
Feb 14, 2011, 5:28 AM
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PMI says that the Synergy has a thicker sheath, which will give it more durability and help with the abuse part. Don't know if it's enough to compare to a thicker 10.5 or so rope. But It would also mean that it would have a skinnier core, so I'd go with a thicker rope too.
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vegastradguy
Feb 14, 2011, 6:06 AM
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mrbaksh wrote: dugl33: I just needed another climbers take on my choice. I think I'd rather go for the bulkier rope with a higher impact force. Thanks
For big walls, impact force really shouldn't be in your equation, other than all things being equal, take the rope with the lower impact force.
Go for burly sheath, thick diameter, and a reputation for toughness- Mammut Supersafe, Yates Bigwall, Sterling Marathon- these are all ropes that have a reputation as tough ropes that take a beating.
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skiclimb
Feb 14, 2011, 6:45 AM
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None of this stuff will matter much if you are just doing a wall or two..
Wouldn't buy a special rope for just a week in the valley.
However if you plan to do quite a few walls then the burly 10.5s may be worthwhile
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guangzhou
Feb 14, 2011, 7:03 AM
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mrbaksh wrote: Well, I will be climbing high-up this fall and making preps. I was wondering what would be a good impact force rope to buy. I just bought the PMI Synergy (green thing) rope. After purchasing however, I noticed the impact force is "only" 7.7kNs. I'm not expecting to fall often but if/when i do, maybe 20+ Ft of air. Did I make the right choice? I assume not, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I wonder what you mean by HIgh Up. Can you give us an idea of what route or area you're headed too.
Big Wall climbing is rough on ropes, but I've used thin ropes on them before. A lot of stress on the jugging end, and wouldn't last as long as a thick rope for sure, but they do work.
Again, what do you mean by high up?
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desertdude420
Feb 14, 2011, 11:13 PM
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Edelweiss Sharp 10.5mm
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byran
Feb 23, 2011, 8:08 PM
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If you're on a budget the 10.3 Edelweiss Ally is probably the best bang for your buck. About $90 cheaper than the Sharp, and plenty burly for wall climbing.
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vegastradguy
Feb 23, 2011, 8:46 PM
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no offense to those who love the brand, but Edelweiss are probably the least durable ropes i've encountered.
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desertdude420
Feb 23, 2011, 10:16 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: no offense to those who love the brand, but Edelweiss are probably the least durable ropes i've encountered.
Maybe the Sharp has a better sheath or something?
(This post was edited by desertdude420 on Feb 23, 2011, 10:51 PM)
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xtrmecat
Feb 24, 2011, 6:46 PM
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Mammut Super Safe. 10.2, sharp edge cut resistant, UIAA test. Can you say jugg with a little better feeling. I've been beating the crap out of mine for many miles now, with only slight wear. Teflon coating on every individual core fiber makes it strong as all get out. Dry also. 8.8KN impact force with 5.7% elongation, 11-12 falls. Burly enough for my fat ass.
Only downer I can find is it is not available in a 60m wall duty rope as a bicolor.
Burly Bob
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vegastradguy
Feb 24, 2011, 7:04 PM
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xtrmecat wrote: Mammut Super Safe. 10.2, sharp edge cut resistant, UIAA test
Yeah, that test was only good for the one year it was done. Its no longer a UIAA standard and no rope carries this certification any longer.
That said, the Super Safe is a bomber wall rope and loads of folks I know use it religiously.
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xtrmecat
Feb 24, 2011, 7:09 PM
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Yes I know they discontinued the test, but anything that can resemble a warm and fuzzy feeling when jugging the line is a bonus in my book. Doesn't kill the creepy feeling you get once in a while, but when the partner says " be smooth" because of where the rope runs, I prefer to stack things in my favor.
Burly Bob
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