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alexoverhere
Mar 21, 2011, 5:25 PM
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Just moved to Philadelphia from Michigan in January, and am looking for recommendations for local trad (preferred) or sport areas. I've been driving up to NY the past several weekends to climb in the Gunks, but am realizing that there are a bunch of closer places. I've been to Birdsboro and ice climbing near Kitnersville, and have heard good things about the Gap.
Can someone recommend climbing areas worth going to within a couple hours drive from Philly (PA, NJ, DE, wherever)? Is the paclimbing.com guidebook released yet, and if not, which guidebooks should I get? Thanks in advance. Also sometimes looking for driving/climbing partners if anyone's interested. (SO excited not to have to drive 6 hours to climb!)
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tdavidock
Mar 22, 2011, 7:06 PM
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I live in Philly too, and the Gunks by far is the best bang for the buck for driving. Other trad areas include Chickies Rock near Lancaster, Rock St Park in MD, and the Gap. All are around equal distance from Philly, hovering around 1.5 hour drive time without serious traffic. The gap definitely has more options, but if I'm driving that far north, I usually just go straight to the Gunks.
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joeforte
Mar 24, 2011, 10:57 PM
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The gap has great rock, and has kept me from the gunks ever since I started climbing on the harder routes there. The easier routes can be loose, vegetated, and blocky.
The mocanaqua area has tons of great trad. Shichshinny, Lehigh Gorge, etc.. Also check out Boxcar rocks. There are too many areas to list actually.
A good resource for you would be the Eastern and Central PA guidebooks. The Eastern has all of those areas in great detail. The Central has Boxcar and a bunch of others.
You can find it at www.bluebiner.com
Any other questions, feel free to PM me.
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roclimb
Apr 29, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Just wanted everyone to know the PA guidebook is finally in print. Books will ship on May 16. thanks for waiting.
www.bluebiner.com
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gblauer
Moderator
Apr 29, 2011, 10:31 PM
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Congrats on the release!
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toeknee
Apr 29, 2011, 10:38 PM
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Great news, just ordered one!
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toeknee
May 19, 2011, 12:24 AM
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roclimb wrote: Just wanted everyone to know the PA guidebook is finally in print. Books will ship on May 16. thanks for waiting.
Mine arrived today - very nice! Thank you!
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joeforte
May 19, 2011, 1:49 AM
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Got mine today as well. Sweet book Rob! I was surprised how compact it was, considering it is 500 pages long!
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gblauer
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May 19, 2011, 1:50 AM
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we are still awaiting our copy.
Does anyone know if it includes an area called "The Edge"?
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toeknee
May 19, 2011, 11:16 PM
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gblauer wrote: Does anyone know if it includes an area called "The Edge"?
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joeforte
May 23, 2011, 12:27 PM
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Gail, both areas known as "The Edge" have sensitive access, and were therefore left our of the book. Rob had to do this with several areas. He will most likely include them in the updates if access ever clears up.
If you have any specific questions about the Edge, shoot me a PM.
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Dnomyar220
Jun 1, 2011, 4:14 PM
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Hi All,
I'm going to be in northeastern PA middle of July, and I figured I'd try to get a little climbing done while I'm up there.
I'm looking for some easy, bolted sport routes I can try. I've never climbed lead outside of the gym before, only top rope, so I'm excited to get some in. I've browsed most of the routes in the NE PA region on this website, but I'm having trouble locating any bolted sport routes that are in my range (5.7ish for lead, 5.8+ for top rope). I'm not really interested in climbing any trad unless I could go with someone who is very experienced in it.
Also, not sure if there's any outdoor climb clubs in the area but I'd be down to meet up with some people out there. Thanks in advance for any help!
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gblauer
Moderator
Jun 1, 2011, 7:55 PM
Post #863 of 883
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Anyone know about the bolted climbs at Flat Rock Damn in Manyunk (Philadelphia)? There appears to be ~15 climbs. Who bolted them? What are the ratings?
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ryweller
Jun 3, 2011, 8:09 AM
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Just arrived home to visit family around Pottsville, PA for about 6 weeks. (north of Reading, west of Allentown, south of Scranton)
I'm traveling with a large sport rack and rope, keen to climb anywhere in the region, even if it's a little further to get there. DROP ME A LINE if you are free to partner up and can show me a crag, or you want to explore somewhere. I'm just coming off a year of asian climbing and pushing into 5.12s but keen to climb any grade.
also thinking about getting a bouldering pad to boulder locally and take back to Australia. any recs on local retailers?
ryweller (at-sym) gmail DOT(COM)
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gaultryblas
Jun 7, 2011, 4:20 PM
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How do you get there? I am keen to climb them
Katie
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gblauer
Moderator
Jun 7, 2011, 4:41 PM
Post #866 of 883
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I will likely be out at Birdsboro this weekend, wanna come?
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DaniW
Jun 28, 2011, 2:49 AM
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hi all
i'm visiting from israel in east PA for the next 2 months and i'm looking forward to climb in this area + the Gunks, i have a single rope and full rack of cams with me but no car. can follow up to 5.11 and more when i'll get back in shape(two months without climbing because of school) PM me or send me an Email if you intersted,
Dani
dandanwol@hotmail.com
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alexoverhere
Jul 21, 2011, 3:58 AM
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Can anyone suggest a couple classics at Mt. Minsi (PA side of the Delaware Water Gap)? 5.8-5.10 and high would be preferable, but outside of those requirements is okay too. I have the new bluebiner PA guidebook but it doesn't include star ratings, so I'm hoping to get a couple suggestions before going up there this weekend.
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joeforte
Jul 21, 2011, 3:19 PM
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If you haven't climbed anything there, I would start with Osprey. It is great rock, clean, 3 pitches, and you can get down in one double-rope rap. Take 2 ropes up there, because there are not many bolted belays, and most raps require 2 ropes.
Voyage of the damned is my favorite route up there. I've seen it rated 5.11 in some books, but it's comparable to a gunks 5.9+ The crack going out the roof looks intimidating, but the gear is very good and plenty, and the finger crack is actually all incut jugs.
Have fun!
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alexoverhere
Jul 22, 2011, 1:56 AM
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Sweet, thanks! I was looking at a picture of Voyage of the Damned and thinking about how nice it looked :) Will try to get on it Saturday.
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joeforte
Jul 22, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Bring a big piece (#4 can work but 5 is better) for after the crux, or be ready to run it out! Use double ropes, or bring long slings, because the route traverses left above the roof, and rope drag can get bad.
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alexoverhere
Jul 24, 2011, 11:29 PM
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Thanks thanks.. It took us a while to orient ourselves, and we ended up climbing something we thought was Chieftan but was actually some combination of Heroine Hyponsis and Blue Sparks from Hell. We eventually got on Chieftan, took a good look at the roof crack of Voyage of the Damned, and decided to wait until another day to attempt it :P It was HOT on Saturday and swimming in the river after climbing was pretty nice.
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 23, 2011, 11:22 PM
Post #873 of 883
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5th Annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean Please join us the weekend of September 17th for some cliff clean up, climbing and camaraderie. Camping starts Friday night, followed by some cliff maintenance and climbing on Saturday. Saturday night we will have a community dinner with a raffle (all proceeds go to cliff maintenance) and on Sunday will will complete our maintenance projects and do some climbing.
We will have TRs set up for non leaders.
PM gblauer if you have any questions.
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JacksonLandFill
May 28, 2012, 2:45 AM
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I am in the southern portion of PA. White Rocks and Brown Rocks are the most accessible to me. Though I just read bit regarding James Buchanan's Birthplace park. Solo lead is what I am interested in getting with someone on but no one I know does lead. Then again my area isn't known for good leads (unless you count Seneca... which is not PA) I've got a passive rack (hex, nuts, tricams) 60m rope, webbing, cords, knot know how. It's very rare I am able climb so you've got to be patient.
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crzybotr
Jun 24, 2012, 12:17 AM
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jacksonlandfill- soooooo you want to solo lead, but rarely climb and only have a passive rack.... well ya gots some stones kid! go buy a wren silent partner, search some forums, and will that bad boy to me when you careen into the deck. *subtle sarcasm*
I'm assuming you're inquiring about free solo lead as opposed to aid solo lead. free solo lead sucks and you need to know what you're doing, even then it really sucks, to the point few do it. free solo on top rope it much more common if you're like me and rarely shower and are antisocial. go buy a petzl mini traxion and become proficient with google.
as far as aid solo, it's fun but this area doesn't lend itself well to it. butt does happen. go drop a few grand on cool shiny doodads, brew 2 pots of coffee, and again google. once your brain is full sneak into your local crag mid week with your new bag of cool stuff and have at it, but again don't forget to ad me to your will.
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