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AamClimber
Mar 24, 2011, 12:38 PM
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I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth.
=)
Thanks.
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sungam
Mar 24, 2011, 1:08 PM
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Meh, I tried it for a while on steep ground to help train body tension. I definitely felt it in the "core" (that one guy shitz pants in rage!!!) a fair amount, but mostly it was just annoying so I took them off.
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csproul
Mar 24, 2011, 1:26 PM
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AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks.
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jupiter
Mar 24, 2011, 2:30 PM
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I've always thought that using a chain mail suit would evenly distribute the weight across the entire body, making every movement more difficult
I would call it TRAIN MAIL.
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gmggg
Mar 24, 2011, 2:38 PM
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csproul wrote: AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks. Sounds like a terrible idea to me. If you really believe that adding weight is a good way to train, at least add it so that it does not alter your center of gravity.
I would imagine that altering your center of gravity would be the whole point of ankle weights. Juggy V2/3 roofs to help with core strength and body tension.
It surely wouldn't help beyond that specific benefit though.
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viciado
Mar 24, 2011, 2:52 PM
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I agree that while ankle weights might make you work harder, they are not likely to help you make significant improvement to your climbing. Most training programs specific to climbing teach you to focus on body movement and awareness of your center of gravity. By adding ankle weights, you will be training movement with a cog that is different from what it will be when you are climbing for performance. You will most likely get more out of doing 4x4s or "laps" (see SCC or other training manuals) on the wall than by adding weight(s) to your feet..
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flesh
Mar 24, 2011, 6:17 PM
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AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks.
I'm personally a big believer in weighted climbing. I've been doing it for a few months now. I would suggest a weight vest though. Just google it. You'll find ergonomic, comfortable weight vests for around 200.00.
Get one that can range from 5-20lbs and you can exchange the weight quickly.
Not many people use them. Where I think they come in handy is as a training tool that allows one to climb an easier grade while still getting stronger. As you climb higher grades the holds get smaller. The smaller the hold, the more likely you are to get injured from it. Instead of climbing on smaller holds as you improve, mix it up and just add weight. I do this with campusing and bouldering.
For example, if you boulder v6, and you've done most of the v5/v6 boulder problems at your gym, instead of hopping on the v7 or 8's, add ten lbs and try to repeat all the v5's and v6's. I'm not saying do this all the time but as a way to mix up your training. Generally speaking the v5 and 6 will have more finger friendly holds than the v7 and 8's. However by adding weight, the easier climbs may be just as diffcult while giving your fingers a break from the stresses of climbing on smaller holds.
When adding weight, I suggest climbing boulder problems that are finger friendly by nature, like slopers and pinches, not holds that are small and crimpy, focus on open handed holds.
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potreroed
Mar 24, 2011, 6:52 PM
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I found weighted training to be beneficial, but not around my ankles. I took my ankle weights, hooked them together and tied them around my waist.
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michael1245
Mar 24, 2011, 7:19 PM
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potreroed wrote: I found weighted training to be beneficial, but not around my ankles. I took my ankle weights, hooked them together and tied them around my waist.
yes. I like this.
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jt512
Mar 24, 2011, 8:25 PM
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AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks.
It's a terrible idea, as is any weighted climbing, unless possibly you are climbing at a very advanced level. There is body of sport science literature that shows how this sort of weight training wreaks havoc on your technique, which is what you ought to be concentrating on learning, not impeding. I'm assuming you are not a very advanced climber.
Jay
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flesh
Mar 24, 2011, 10:37 PM
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jt512 wrote: AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks. It's a terrible idea, as is any weighted climbing, unless possibly you are climbing at a very advanced level. There is body of sport science literature that shows how this sort of weight training wreaks havoc on your technique, which is what you ought to be concentrating on learning, not impeding. I'm assuming you are not a very advanced climber. Jay
I agree, it's just silly to do weight training if your below around 5.12 or v6..... Just climb and have fun, get mileage.
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enigma
Mar 25, 2011, 6:05 AM
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AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks.
I wouldn't recommend climbing with ankle weights.
However I've climbed outside several times with a backpack on during multi-pitches, so preparation could be helpful in those circumstances.
Getting used to the extra weight as well as certain moves in tight areas such as off-widths or chimneys.
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jammer
Apr 3, 2011, 8:23 PM
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AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks.
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jt512
Apr 3, 2011, 9:06 PM
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jammer wrote: AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks. If you have the gear, climb sport with a full trad rack. This will help you when you climb trad as much as it will help you with technique . . .
True enough.
Jay
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onceahardman
Apr 4, 2011, 12:28 AM
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jt512 wrote: AamClimber wrote: I've been wondering for a while if wearing ankle weights while rock climbing is helpful in improving your climb or is it just more trouble than its worth. =) Thanks. It's a terrible idea, as is any weighted climbing, unless possibly you are climbing at a very advanced level. There is body of sport science literature that shows how this sort of weight training wreaks havoc on your technique, which is what you ought to be concentrating on learning, not impeding. I'm assuming you are not a very advanced climber. Jay
Very interesting. I'd really like to read about it. Could you share some, please?
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ceebo
Apr 4, 2011, 1:11 AM
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A unorthodox approach is to do easy none dynamic vert routes/traverse with 1 finger from each hand, apart from pinky. You can do a single route and alternate between the 3 fingers or do a single finger type per route, not on big walls thougjh. The ring finger feels really uncomfortable at first.. but relaxing the middle finger helps allot.
It probably has injury potential if you do it wrong perhaps even if you do it right. But that is your choice to make. On jugs, instead of putting a finger as far in as you can, just rest the first finger pad on the top lip of the jug. This makes it almost impossible for you to ''power'' up on a single finger and shock load it. If you fail to use good lower body weight shift and initiation your finger will simply slip off avoiding injury. Alternatively you can use 2 fingers per hand, but that to me comes with the risk of being able to power your way up.
I initially done it with the intention of making my endurance training more interesting. It turned out to be very helpful for cog awareness and balance, and It also gives ridicules open hand strength gains.
Oh, btw.. by using 1 finger and its pad.. it does force you to stick really close to the wall so that you can get under the hold. that gives more friction on the finger. Mostly with ought that, you will fall off.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Apr 4, 2011, 1:24 AM)
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flesh
Apr 4, 2011, 4:12 AM
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ceebo wrote: A unorthodox approach is to do easy none dynamic vert routes/traverse with 1 finger from each hand, apart from pinky. You can do a single route and alternate between the 3 fingers or do a single finger type per route, not on big walls thougjh. The ring finger feels really uncomfortable at first.. but relaxing the middle finger helps allot. It probably has injury potential if you do it wrong perhaps even if you do it right. But that is your choice to make. On jugs, instead of putting a finger as far in as you can, just rest the first finger pad on the top lip of the jug. This makes it almost impossible for you to ''power'' up on a single finger and shock load it. If you fail to use good lower body weight shift and initiation your finger will simply slip off avoiding injury. Alternatively you can use 2 fingers per hand, but that to me comes with the risk of being able to power your way up. I initially done it with the intention of making my endurance training more interesting. It turned out to be very helpful for cog awareness and balance, and It also gives ridicules open hand strength gains. Oh, btw.. by using 1 finger and its pad.. it does force you to stick really close to the wall so that you can get under the hold. that gives more friction on the finger. Mostly with ought that, you will fall off.
I must say that IMHO this is very dangerous. Many climbers have suffered long lasting injuries from monos... I would never suggest to anyone but the best of the best to climb a entire route of monos and even if they were the best of the best... it would only be to train for something like action directe, a diffifcult mono/two finger route.
I'm not saying that it couldn't get you stronger but it's horrible advice for a begginner for sure and I still wouldn't suggest it for anyone. Mono's along with micro crimps should be done in severe moderation. There are plenty of other proven, safer, ways to get strong. Nothing slow you down more than injuries. You've got to stay in the game and this is just scary advice bro!
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jbro_135
Apr 4, 2011, 10:59 AM
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nope don't do this
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ceebo
Apr 4, 2011, 12:39 PM
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flesh wrote: ceebo wrote: A unorthodox approach is to do easy none dynamic vert routes/traverse with 1 finger from each hand, apart from pinky. You can do a single route and alternate between the 3 fingers or do a single finger type per route, not on big walls thougjh. The ring finger feels really uncomfortable at first.. but relaxing the middle finger helps allot. It probably has injury potential if you do it wrong perhaps even if you do it right. But that is your choice to make. On jugs, instead of putting a finger as far in as you can, just rest the first finger pad on the top lip of the jug. This makes it almost impossible for you to ''power'' up on a single finger and shock load it. If you fail to use good lower body weight shift and initiation your finger will simply slip off avoiding injury. Alternatively you can use 2 fingers per hand, but that to me comes with the risk of being able to power your way up. I initially done it with the intention of making my endurance training more interesting. It turned out to be very helpful for cog awareness and balance, and It also gives ridicules open hand strength gains. Oh, btw.. by using 1 finger and its pad.. it does force you to stick really close to the wall so that you can get under the hold. that gives more friction on the finger. Mostly with ought that, you will fall off. I must say that IMHO this is very dangerous. Many climbers have suffered long lasting injuries from monos... I would never suggest to anyone but the best of the best to climb a entire route of monos and even if they were the best of the best... it would only be to train for something like action directe, a diffifcult mono/two finger route. I'm not saying that it couldn't get you stronger but it's horrible advice for a begginner for sure and I still wouldn't suggest it for anyone. Mono's along with micro crimps should be done in severe moderation. There are plenty of other proven, safer, ways to get strong. Nothing slow you down more than injuries. You've got to stay in the game and this is just scary advice bro!
In the context you suggest i quite agree, not what i meant though. However, i would think that ''new'' climbers adding 20 lb weight vests and powering their way through routes (with the occasional crimp) is going to be more dangerous. Purely for the fact that they are able to use all fingers and hold on until they reach peak pressures under bad footwork.
Yeah my suggestion takes a certain level of body feed back awareness, perhaps i wrongfully credit people with having that. But the point is, technique is the limiting factor in what i posted. With only having 1 single finger pad per hold, it is highly unlikely they will be able to put down any kind of injury force before slipping off under poor footwork. The only way to climb like this is to stick very close to the wall (provided you stick to what i suggested), and use very good lower body movement. The fingers will only play the role of keeping you close to the wall. It also adds a certain level of caution, and makes you really respect your body in every move.
If you can think of it as a movement drill, rather than a finger building drill.. it makes more sense. Although undoubtedly fingers do get stronger. I am not a world class climber, and i certainly do not see my self as injury immune.. yet my fingers have never ever got hurt in any of my ''dangerous'' activity's. I would actually argue those are the reason why they have not got injured, and have got so strong.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Apr 4, 2011, 12:46 PM)
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jbro_135
Apr 4, 2011, 1:18 PM
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What happens when your foot pops off and you suddenly add an extra hundred pounds or more to your single fingers?
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ceebo
Apr 4, 2011, 1:37 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: What happens when your foot pops off and you suddenly add an extra hundred pounds or more to your single fingers?
Sticking to what i specified, impossible. You would have to be so strong.. that you are campusing 1/4 inch rails 3 finger open handed doubles, just to get close to holding what you imagine. But then i doubt you will credit me with enough respect to work out why.
But well, i guess ill take a pop at it. If you done the same with 4 fingers, the smallest finger (say the index in this case, as the pinky may just sp off) will reach its maximum load before the other fingers.. so what happens their, is the other fingers force the index to remain at full stretch (or full load). Perhaps you can work out the rest yourself. Or even, the smaller fingers force the bigger fingers into a more dangerous angle.. it could go either way i guess.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Apr 4, 2011, 2:03 PM)
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shotwell
Apr 4, 2011, 1:45 PM
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ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: What happens when your foot pops off and you suddenly add an extra hundred pounds or more to your single fingers? Sticking to what i specified, impossible. You would have to be so strong.. that you are campusing 1/4 inch rails 3 finger open handed doubles, just to get close to holding what you imagine. But then i doubt you will credit me with enough respect to work out why.
I've personally popped my feet on a single pad mono and managed to hang on. The additional load caused some serious pain and swelling with an eventual diagnosis of a partially ruptured pulley. I never campused, or trained on a hang board. Was I strong enough to do what you say? Doubtful.
Your 'training methods' are dangerous and irresponsible to discuss. Between 'free soloing' in a gym, your horrible dynamic belay advice, and now this, I'd suggest beginners ignore your advice outright. You can feel free to continue to court disaster in your own climbing, but suggesting that others try these methods is far more than irresponsible; it is morally reprehensible to do so.
To the OP; if you're looking for better ways to train core strength, consider the books How to Climb 5.12 by Horst or The Self Coached Climber by Hunter. Both are good training tools, though I prefer Hunter's book.
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ceebo
Apr 4, 2011, 1:59 PM
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shotwell wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: What happens when your foot pops off and you suddenly add an extra hundred pounds or more to your single fingers? Sticking to what i specified, impossible. You would have to be so strong.. that you are campusing 1/4 inch rails 3 finger open handed doubles, just to get close to holding what you imagine. But then i doubt you will credit me with enough respect to work out why. I've personally popped my feet on a single pad mono and managed to hang on. The additional load caused some serious pain and swelling with an eventual diagnosis of a partially ruptured pulley. I never campused, or trained on a hang board. Was I strong enough to do what you say? Doubtful.
And how many fingers on your other hand?, do you think that had no play in it?. Further more, what performance level was it at?, what wall angle?. None of witch is close to what i am saying.
Even so, you fail to see how it was your own fault in the first place for trying to stick it. That is down to your own lack of respect for your body, don't pass that blame onto me.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Apr 4, 2011, 2:16 PM)
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jbro_135
Apr 4, 2011, 3:22 PM
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So I should train myself to fall off whenever something is hard to hold? More brilliant advice.
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shotwell
Apr 4, 2011, 3:44 PM
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ceebo wrote: shotwell wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: What happens when your foot pops off and you suddenly add an extra hundred pounds or more to your single fingers? Sticking to what i specified, impossible. You would have to be so strong.. that you are campusing 1/4 inch rails 3 finger open handed doubles, just to get close to holding what you imagine. But then i doubt you will credit me with enough respect to work out why. I've personally popped my feet on a single pad mono and managed to hang on. The additional load caused some serious pain and swelling with an eventual diagnosis of a partially ruptured pulley. I never campused, or trained on a hang board. Was I strong enough to do what you say? Doubtful. And how many fingers on your other hand?, do you think that had no play in it?. Further more, what performance level was it at?, what wall angle?. None of witch is close to what i am saying. Even so, you fail to see how it was your own fault in the first place for trying to stick it. That is down to your own lack of respect for your body, don't pass that blame onto me.
Performance level is inconsequential. Your suggestion is to make things harder, then fall off when they feel hard. To paraphrase, I should make a 5.8 feel like 5.12, then let go when it does. How does this teach you to improve?
I had a two finger pocket with my other hand. I didn't make a choice to hold on or not, excepting the fact that I put my fingers in these pockets. They were both sharp on the outside, not holds you just fall out of.
So here's an opportunity for you. Spray me down with the improvements you've seen from your training regimen. Are you a super strong leader? Bouldering drastically better than before? Either put up, or shut up. For anyone looking to make measurable improvement through a proven system, check out The Self Coached Climber. Don't fall for this insanity.
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