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enigma
Apr 19, 2011, 4:31 PM
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Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands ,
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caughtinside
Apr 19, 2011, 9:00 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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I Onflashed a notorious secret route known as either The $20 Hooker or The Warmup. I then downgraded it from 12a to .11d. It is at a super dooper secret crag so I cannot reveal location or post photos.
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dbogardus
Apr 19, 2011, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2009
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5.7b
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rangerrob
Apr 20, 2011, 1:37 AM
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Onflashed?
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caughtinside
Apr 20, 2011, 1:49 AM
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Yes.
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esander4
Apr 20, 2011, 2:30 AM
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caughtinside wrote: I Onflashed a notorious secret route known as either The $20 Hooker or The Warmup. I then downgraded it from 12a to .11d. It is at a super dooper secret crag so I cannot reveal location or post photos. I red-headed (otherwise known as a "ginger-kid") a 5.3c that was all overhanging on microcrimpers overtop of a swamp with hungry alligators underneath. They won't eat you, they'll just give you monster wedgies. The crux of the route was trying to dodge Steve Irwin as he tries to catch you with his butterfly net (all the while speaking into the camera "oooohhhh here we have a climber, he looks dangerous...let's get a closer look")
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eric_k
Apr 25, 2011, 5:14 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2006
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11c, in WA
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chossmonkey
Apr 25, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , That is totally my idea! Thief!!!!!
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rtwilli4
Apr 26, 2011, 10:29 AM
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Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place!
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sungam
Apr 26, 2011, 11:27 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place! That place is siiiiiiick.
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camhead
Apr 26, 2011, 11:54 AM
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sungam wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place! That place is siiiiiiick. yeah, Mill Creek is awesome. Hardest spurt onsight (no beta, placing draws, blablabla) was 12b. Hardest flash was 12c.
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kachoong
Apr 26, 2011, 2:58 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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camhead wrote: sungam wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Yea, I've onflashed a lot of routes as well. It's generally pretty hard to "on-sight" a sport route, what with all of the chalk and bolts. Every hard sport route I've onflashed felt easy in the grade. EVERY ONE! The ones I fell off of are the ones with legit grades. 7a+ a few times on two separate continents. All soft. Some of my proudest sport onsights were at Mill Creek near Moab. Mid 11 techy stuff, no chalk, spaced out bolts. LOVE that place! That place is siiiiiiick. yeah, Mill Creek is awesome. Hardest spurt onsight (no beta, placing draws, blablabla) was 12b. Hardest flash was 12c.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 26, 2011, 3:06 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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10c at Rumney (so really, that's a 'Gunks 5.8+)
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 6:59 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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Highest rating? The Great Baldini, 5.10b, EPC. But, ratings there seemed kind of soft to me. Hardest climb? That's harder to say, maybe La Cha-cha des Felins, 5.9, at Montagne D'Argent (Quebec) when it was wet. Hardest for me head? Third ever sport lead, up a 5.6 on the Eardley Escarpment - which got very thin between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. (Local ratings under the 5.10+ sport range tend to be... old school.)
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ENARE
Apr 27, 2011, 5:31 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2011
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On Flashed 5.10a last night; but generally 5.9 on-sights are more common for me.
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ceebo
May 6, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2009
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''hi hi i can climb 9a projects and on sight 8a/b''.. ok, tell me something less obvious?.
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sungam
May 6, 2011, 1:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Please either start making sense or go away.
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csproul
May 6, 2011, 1:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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sungam wrote: Please either start making sense or go away. At the very least, if you're not going to make sense, then post something funny!
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ENARE
May 6, 2011, 5:12 PM
Post #19 of 45
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Registered: Feb 8, 2011
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It really was not a project... About 2 months ago my friend led the climb after a long day of climbing and I attempted to top rope afterwards. I could not even really get past the first bolt. Last week, I had another go at leading the climb and made it past the first move without any problems and finished the climb. So, although it was technically a RP and I had a little beta from my buddies lead, it was not really a project; just something that I knew I could do but was too drained to even try the first time around.
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kennoyce
May 6, 2011, 6:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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Last week I onflashed the first ascent of a 5.17e on my eighth attempt right after my friend pink pointed it on his first try. We both agreed on the grade, but its at a super secret area so no one else has confirmed it.
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bandycoot
May 6, 2011, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... That said: 12c quite regularly when I actually go sport climbing. Josh
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drivel
May 6, 2011, 6:13 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... That said: 12c quite regularly when I actually go sport climbing. Josh god damnit, you stepped in the crazy.
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drivel
May 6, 2011, 6:14 PM
Post #23 of 45
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... alternate response... BWHAHAHAHA this would be pretty futile hunting grounds for strong climber boy, as everyone knows, nobody on rc.com actually rock climbs.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
May 6, 2011, 6:23 PM
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drivel wrote: bandycoot wrote: enigma wrote: Would appreciate photos, beta, Location, details. That makes it special. In the last year. Thanks for sharing. Pro's Welcome, Foreign Lands , If I were a single female, and I wanted to date a stong climber, this would be a great way to start mining for data... alternate response... BWHAHAHAHA this would be pretty futile hunting grounds for strong climber boy, as everyone knows, nobody on rc.com actually rock climbs. I resemble that remark.
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edge
May 6, 2011, 7:13 PM
Post #25 of 45
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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My hardest sport onsight was an 11d at Rumney. Since I don't sport climb all that much, it is also my hardest sport send as well. I have yet to climb a 12 on sport, but that should change this year. Climbed a few 5.12 trad onsights BITD.
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