|
gblauer
Moderator
Apr 28, 2011, 3:36 PM
Post #551 of 1159
(15751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Best wishes on your upcoming marriage!
I can relate, I have certainly had my share of climbing trips impacted by crappy weather. At least you did get some climbing in and you were able to stay far from the crowds. Not sure I would have your patience...driving from site to site to avoid crowds would make me crazy. That said, I climb at the Gunks, with 1000's of my closest friends.
|
|
|
|
|
Dip
Apr 28, 2011, 3:39 PM
Post #552 of 1159
(15750 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 270
|
I think it would've been better if everyone wasn't funneled into the areas that stay dry. Not that it was bad.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Apr 28, 2011, 9:24 PM
Post #553 of 1159
(15730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Definitely a good WW TR, but as a bachelors' party story it lacked hookers and blow. 
congrats, btw, on getting married.
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Apr 29, 2011, 12:59 AM
Post #555 of 1159
(15716 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
Hey DIP great TR. Really enjoyed reading it. Way to get out and enjoy yourself while others are sitting at the couch.
Regarding hardcore and Gail, yeah they go together!
Greg, you're are such a damn romantic! BTW what's up with the writing? Do your have a draft of a couple of things needing a critical read?
Gail, I'm a slug. Been a long, tough week. I am going to stay local and climb up here both days. Yeah, I know. I'm a wimp. Tucks next weekend. But I will be down the following weekend. I will come solo so we can get quality climbing time in together. Oops! Wait a second. I think it might be the Boston AMC new seconds weekend. No worries, we can still climb together, I will just arrive with a 125 drinking buddies!!!! So little time. So much rock and so much beer.
Project for the weekend, which I have failed miserably on in past, thank goodness for perfect green C4 placements, will be a crack climb requiring thumb stacks! Now if I can only figure out what they are!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Apr 29, 2011, 2:28 AM
Post #556 of 1159
(15704 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Bill, Yes, let's climb together the weekend of 5/13. I will not be up on 5/6. Let's keep in touch and an eye on the weather. It's been nothing but uncooperative! I have a tweaked finger, so I have to see how the climbing goes this weekend. I stayed out of the gym this week to avoid tweaking it more. (damn mono pockets!)
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Apr 29, 2011, 11:40 AM
Post #557 of 1159
(15688 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Bill, regarding romanticism, have you seen my last post? A bit different than the hookers and blow sentiment.
And regarding thumb stacks, in the 'Gunks?!?!?!
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
May 1, 2011, 5:07 PM
Post #558 of 1159
(15643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Did a little spurt climbing at Rumney yesterday. Got a nice workout. It is nice to climb with stronger climbers. Warmed up on Holderness Arete and Idiot's Deluxe (both 10's). Then went up to Upper New Wave where my friend Alan is working on a project (Roaring Silence, 13b). I did Barking Spiders (11c), then toproped Roaring Silence. I couldn't do the crux, but I felt better on it than when I tried to follow him on Thin Man. After trying it a couple times we then went down to Parking Lot wall and did 100% Columbian.
The best part about Rumney is seeing people I never see. We probably would have gotten even more climbing in if we weren't socializing.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
sethg
May 2, 2011, 2:13 PM
Post #559 of 1159
(15620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2006
Posts: 134
|
Hey, I tend not to pimp my blog posts here on rc.com, but given the number of regulars here who have recently been to Red Rocks I thought y'all might have some interest in my Red Rocks report. Had an awesome time on several classics like Johnny Vegas, Beulah's Book, Ragged Edges, Ginger Cracks, Jubilant Song & Birdland.
Part 1
Part 2
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
May 2, 2011, 2:38 PM
Post #560 of 1159
(15609 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: Did a little spurt climbing at Rumney yesterday. Josh
Spurt climbing? Does that have anything to do with Clucking?
http://www.dailymotion.com/...65oeo_clucking_sport
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 2, 2011, 2:40 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
May 2, 2011, 3:28 PM
Post #561 of 1159
(15601 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
First Nice Weekend at the Gunks=Ambulance, bad behavior and No Parking
This past weekend was our best weekend weather since January 1st. Saturday was partly sunny, cool but very nice. Sunday started at 37 degrees, I left the house at 715AM in a hat, gloves, down jacket and by the time I got to my third climb I was in a tank top.
When we arrived at the Trapps lot on Saturday (8:44) the lot was nearly full and there was (already) an ambulance at the Slime lot. An accident already???? Fortunately, they were just conducting a drill. We managed to do 11 pitches on Saturday, never waiting for a climb. Although it was rather crowded it seemed like there was a lot of large groups. The groups consisted of a leader and lots and lots of newbish type climbers. Lots of TR set ups.
Which leads me to the Bad Behavior. There was a large party (4-6 climbers) who had a TR set up on Frog's Head. They were nearly through with the climbing when the last climber was about to start up to clean the anchor. Up walks a woman (you know who you are) and in a disdainful tone asks "Are you top roping this climb? Do you really have a top rope set up?" The would-be top roper/cleaner answered affirmatively and the leader announces loudly "Well I want to lead this climb" Note, I am over on Pas De Deux, a few climbs away. I am not straining to hear the conversation. The leader is loud and obnoxious, demanding to lead before the top roper can clean her anchor. Things get settled and the Top roper started up the climb. As soon as the top roper cleared the crux, the leader started up the climb. She was very tenative, she placed a cam at the crux, it fell out as her waist moved above the piece and she just managed to hang on through the crux. Could have been an ugly story without pro.
Anyway, I thought the leader was incredibly rude and I hope that she learns some etiquette if she is going to continue to climb at the gunks. I know this is controversial, but, Top Ropers have a right to climb as well. They shouldn't monopolize a climb, but, they should be allowed to finish up, clean the anchors and move on without being hassled by a whiny, entitled newb!
We did a full array of climbs this weekend; Laughing Man, a hard start for this shorty, leading to a one move wonder roof. Lots of fun with a cool hand traverse and dangling feet to some much easier stuff like Somehing Interesting, MF, Birdie Party, Nosedive etc. I gotta say that traverse on Pas De Deux gets me every time. This time I did it low and it seemed a bit easier. Glad I didn't lead it!
It was hard to leave at noon on Sunday (my ride was leaving, I had to go), but, I always say it's better to leave the cliff wanting more. No climbing for me next weekend, we will be in WV with Mitch's family celebrating the 20th year of camping together as a family. I am looking forward to some chill time.
More in two weeks...
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 2, 2011, 3:40 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
May 2, 2011, 3:42 PM
Post #562 of 1159
(15594 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
Ha! Finally, the 'Gunks season has started! 
Etiquette is so important at the 'Gunks, but not just etiquette but intelligence and patience, too. Self-righteousness rarely works there. I've been annoyed at top-ropes set up on classics, but I've always asked what the status is before asking if I can jump in and lead it. I also offer to put the rope back up, too, if there are more people waiting for the climb. Yes, I've been annoyed, but I have learned to be respectful. It seems that while the 'Gunks can be full of groups hogging climbs, it is also full of reasonable people willing to work around inconveniences.
Not sure how one can fuck up placing a cam at the crux of Frog's Head. Seriously. And if the cam had fallen out, damn, I'd be damn sure I knew what I was doing at that point because that would not be a nice fall.
I'm really hoping to get a chance to get out this week for the first time in Brasil. Fingers are crossed I'll have a report out by next week.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
May 2, 2011, 3:48 PM
Post #563 of 1159
(15592 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
gblauer wrote: Anyway, I thought the leader was incredibly rude and I hope that she learns some etiquette if she is going to continue to climb at the gunks. I know this is controversial, but, Top Ropers have a right to climb as well. They shouldn't monopolize a climb, but, they should be allowed to finish up, clean the anchors and move on without being hassled by a whiny, entitled newb!
Yeah. I generally only see this with new leaders. They start leading and all of a sudden assume that they are more entitled. But, on the other hand, I don't think that monopolizing the first pitch of one of the most popular climbs in the Gunks is a good idea. To be openly critical and whiny like that, though, is immature.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
sethg
May 2, 2011, 4:16 PM
Post #564 of 1159
(15576 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2006
Posts: 134
|
Gail, you weren't the woman who gave me a bit of advice as I was leading Pas de Deux on Saturday afternoon, were you? We did Frog's Head and then Pas De Deux in the late afternoon, 4-6 p.m. range. Funny we were in the same place, I hope to run into you at the cliff one of these days...
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
May 2, 2011, 4:20 PM
Post #565 of 1159
(15573 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Ummm...not sure. Were you climbing with a guy in a yellow T? He hung at the traverse?
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 2, 2011, 4:21 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sethg
May 2, 2011, 4:29 PM
Post #566 of 1159
(15567 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2006
Posts: 134
|
gblauer wrote: Ummm...not sure. Were you climbing with a guy in a yellow T? He hung at the traverse?
Yes yes!! I think so. You told me that some people backclean a certain cam (I did not but should have) and then you were telling your friends on Son of Easy O about how tricky you find the low crux of Pas De Deux and because I was fighting for my life at that exact location I told you to stop it! Sound familiar? I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to say hello, I appreciated the advice, but you guys had moved on by the time we came down.
I loved that pitch, my first time on it and the early going was tense. I took the high route on the traverse because it looked more plausible to me but I understand some people think the low way is easier.
Edited to add: and by the way I was completely uninvolved in whatever rudeness occurred earlier on Frog's Head....
(This post was edited by sethg on May 2, 2011, 4:32 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
darkgift06
May 2, 2011, 4:33 PM
Post #567 of 1159
(15564 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2009
Posts: 492
|
Made it out yesterday, super sunny day so we decided to enjoy the sun as much as we could. Did a few quick short warmup routes at Rattlesnake Ledge where we saw 2 snakes & climbed a 5.10c & a 5.9 trad route, both were excellent. We then headed down to Great White Wall & did a few routes, & even some laps on bouldery a 5.11a.
We then sat around for a bit & enjoyed some beers and watched our friends run up a 2 pitch 5.11a trad which was spectacular. We climbed & hung out all day shirtless soaking up the much appreciated sun it was a glorious day. I took about an hour worth of video so that should be up soon I'll update when its online.
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
May 2, 2011, 5:03 PM
Post #568 of 1159
(15556 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Seth, Yeah, you did an AWESOME job on that climb! You were great!!! That is one tricky little climb. We did it yesterday and I finally made it through the traverse in a way that was somewhat easier than I had experience.
Seth, I would love to climb with you. My husband had major wrist re-construction surgery and can't climb until August. I am up every weekend and can climb some weekdays.
PS...loved the TR from RR
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 2, 2011, 5:10 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sethg
May 2, 2011, 6:40 PM
Post #569 of 1159
(15539 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2006
Posts: 134
|
Would love to climb with you Gail, I will send you a message at some point to set a date.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
May 2, 2011, 6:43 PM
Post #570 of 1159
(15538 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
link doesn't work.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
May 2, 2011, 11:40 PM
Post #572 of 1159
(15487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Hehe. No, Tiff wasn't with me. No clucking for me.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
May 4, 2011, 3:25 AM
Post #574 of 1159
(15442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Looks like you had a beautiful day
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
May 4, 2011, 7:23 PM
Post #575 of 1159
(15419 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Woo Hoo, Guess who climbed last night?
Mitch!
He had wrist reconstruction surgery in mid February:
Yesterday, the doc told Mitch that he could try climbing at the gym. (The gym? That's so much harder on your body than the great outdoors. I don't think the doctor really understands what we do, although he has treated several climbers.) So we climbed last night. He top roped 7's and 8's and had no problems. His wrist didn't bother him and he was able to hang his entire body weight off his bad hand. He is weak, but that will come back.
I am so excited to have my climbing partner back!
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 4, 2011, 7:27 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
