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moresnowplease
May 4, 2011, 6:56 AM
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Noob on this forum...
Ive been sport climbing about 10 times and am very new to this sport. I learned with a guy who was really solid but now have to find new partners because he moved. In doing so I have come across a variety of cool people whos attitudes vary regarding technique and safety. I want to learn more and more and eventually be able to climb some big walls with a gear. I live in Mammoth Lakes in the Eastern Sierra so there is a quite a community up here of all types.
My question is this.
I see a ton of people sport climbing with no anchor. IS this super common? I mean I want to set anchors but I sorta got the pressure not to.( First time with this partner) So I didn't climb that day. Also I have belayed in the past with out an anchor but the more proper training and research I do it seems lame not to. But then again sport climbing is a different scene.
I noticed a lot of people in the popular sport climbing area's not anchoring.
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majid_sabet
May 4, 2011, 7:00 AM
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moresnowplease wrote: Noob on this forum... Ive been sport climbing about 10 times and am very new to this sport. I learned with a guy who was really solid but now have to find new partners because he moved. In doing so I have come across a variety of cool people whos attitudes vary regarding technique and safety. I want to learn more and more and eventually be able to climb some big walls with a gear. I live in Mammoth Lakes in the Eastern Sierra so there is a quite a community up here of all types. My question is this. I see a ton of people sport climbing with no anchor. IS this super common? I mean I want to set anchors but I sorta got the pressure not to.( First time with this partner) So I didn't climb that day. Also I have belayed in the past with out an anchor but the more proper training and research I do it seems lame not to. But then again sport climbing is a different scene. I noticed a lot of people in the popular sport climbing area's not anchoring.
1 post, live in Mammoth and asking how to do anchor?
elementary level troll
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moresnowplease
May 4, 2011, 7:08 AM
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Not trolling at all. Been here 7 years just started climbing. Moved here to ski and hike etc...Been doing that stuff a ton but am new to climbing and am trying to figure it out and be safe.
BTW I am not asking how to anchor Im asking about opinions regarding sport climbers not anchoring at the bottom while belaying.
So be nice
(This post was edited by moresnowplease on May 4, 2011, 7:10 AM)
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majid_sabet
May 4, 2011, 7:20 AM
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anchoring belayer you mean ?
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moresnowplease
May 4, 2011, 7:27 AM
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yep...
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sbaclimber
May 4, 2011, 7:35 AM
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Others may disagree with me on this, but I personally only consider two factors when deciding to anchor myself or not (when belaying, and regarless of what kind of climbing is being done):
1) belay stance
2) belayer weight vs climber weight
For 1), if I am at risk of falling down a hill, off a cliff, etc, then I will anchor myself.
For 2), if the climber outweighs me enough to risk pulling me into the cliff or into the first bit of protection/bolt, then I anchor, although here generally so I still have some freedom of movement.
Otherwise.......there isn't really any reason to anchor the belayer.
*^^^^^^ all caveats apply*
edit, to correct my pathetic language skills
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on May 4, 2011, 7:38 AM)
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moresnowplease
May 4, 2011, 8:47 AM
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Thanks SBA. Being new to the sport Im treading lightly. As I do more and more research (and climbing) I find a lot of opinions flying around. As I search for new partners I want to be sure everyone is confident and safe but at the same time Im not really a Nazi. Sorta the same way I ski I guess.
Anyways..Casa Diablo Mountain sucks. Dont go there you wont have fun. 
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rtwilli4
May 4, 2011, 8:49 AM
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I pretty much agree w/ 'sbaclimber' and I'll save you some time and tell you that any other experienced climber's answer is going to be pretty similar.
I've even gone as far as saying that anchoring yourself in to the ground can be dangerous. It keeps you from being able to move around. I can't count all of the times that I've had to move while I was belaying to either get out of the way of falling rock/gear, get out of the way of another climber, help a fellow belayer, kick a dog away from my lunch, etc.
I weigh about 150 and my g/f weighs around 110. She hates anchoring in and only does it if the specific route brings decking or a ledge fall into the equation, or if there is danger of her falling off of a cliff. She also anchors in if there is a roof above her that she could get pulled up into.
She's a relatively new climber and has no problem protecting herself when she gets yanked up off the ground.
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sbaclimber
May 4, 2011, 9:14 AM
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moresnowplease wrote: As I do more and more research (and climbing) I find a lot of opinions flying around.
I have been climbing for quite a while now, and would consider myself "experienced", but I am still constantly learning new things.
The trick, as you gain experience, is to constantly (re-)evaluate your own opinions. Adopt new information and opinions, that makes your climbing/belaying/etc more effective and safe. Some opinions are downright dangerous, obviously those are not to be adopted, but some may just seem to be irrelevant at the time. Those are still worth noting, they may of use at some point.
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sungam
May 4, 2011, 12:48 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: For 1), if I am at risk of falling down a hill, off a cliff, etc, then I will anchor myself. For 2), if the climber outweighs me enough to risk pulling me into the cliff or into the first bit of protection/bolt, then I anchor, although here generally so I still have some freedom of movement.
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jacques
May 4, 2011, 1:48 PM
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moresnowplease wrote: My question is this. I see a ton of people sport climbing with no anchor. IS this super common? I mean I want to set anchors but I sorta got the pressure not to.( First time with this partner) So I didn't climb that day. Also I have belayed in the past with out an anchor but the more proper training and research I do it seems lame not to. But then again sport climbing is a different scene. .
In sport, it is super common. In a 500feet cliff, i don't know a lot of people don't anchoring, even if i make the mistake at the first pitch.
If you want to do trad, don't "take" sport rules. It is not when you are in a real danger that you have to learn where you set the belay, where you want the first peace of protection, what happen in a fall. at the begining, it is scary, but as you understand what to do...you will be more confident on yor knowledge, not on what other do or not.
If you climb with some one and you are not confident, don't climb or do easy think. You can also go at the bottom of trad route and make boulder to meet people who was looking for belayer and partner. If you climb long time enought to be good, you will understand that not anchoring is one of so many other mistake that we can do. Always protect your life and follow an experienced climber.
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olderic
May 4, 2011, 2:41 PM
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For most single pitch climbs (which includes the vast majority of sports climbing) you won't find the belayer anchored) Exceptional circumstances - big weight discrepancy, bad stance position - have been noted.
Ultimately you have to make your own decision,. While you are pondering you can consider other things that you see inconsistencies about - "closing the system" while belaying, wearing a helmet, knots in the end of the rap rope....
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rangerrob
May 4, 2011, 3:10 PM
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I know you're talking mostly about sport climbing here, but when you wind up belaying someone on a gear route, there is another reason not to anchor the belayer on the first pitch, and that is because an anchored belayer generally gives a much more static belay, which cause a falling climber to whip back into the wall, could cause excess force on the top piece, etc.
I think the rule would be....don;t anchor unless you have specific reason not to. That being said, don't forget to close the system!
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olderic
May 4, 2011, 3:18 PM
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rangerrob wrote: I know you're talking mostly about sport climbing here, but when you wind up belaying someone on a gear route, there is another reason not to anchor the belayer on the first pitch, and that is because an anchored belayer generally gives a much more static belay, which cause a falling climber to whip back into the wall, could cause excess force on the top piece, etc.
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jacques
May 4, 2011, 5:36 PM
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olderic wrote: Well the whole "soft catch" thing has become very popular in the last 10 years primarily because of the sport climbing considerations - although in that case the concern is breaking the climber not the gear. If you go back far enough in climbing history (> 60 years) lo and behold you will discover the idea of the "dynamic belay" being discussed. In that case the concern was breaking the rope.
Still good advice to know the theory of dynamic belay. With two rp's, low fall factor, I will go for it if my belayer apply dynamic belay (with one of my two leader, not all my partner).
The idea of not anchoring to gave a soft belay...No. I never trust that. I saw more climber banging there face on the rock, loosing control of the rope than a leader falling in a bag of feather.
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moresnowplease
May 5, 2011, 5:41 AM
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Thanks for the answers. I sorta thought this is where it was going to go. I just know from so many other adventures in the back country you can not ask too many questions.
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moresnowplease
May 15, 2011, 9:47 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: moresnowplease wrote: Noob on this forum... Ive been sport climbing about 10 times and am very new to this sport. I learned with a guy who was really solid but now have to find new partners because he moved. In doing so I have come across a variety of cool people whos attitudes vary regarding technique and safety. I want to learn more and more and eventually be able to climb some big walls with a gear. I live in Mammoth Lakes in the Eastern Sierra so there is a quite a community up here of all types. My question is this. I see a ton of people sport climbing with no anchor. IS this super common? I mean I want to set anchors but I sorta got the pressure not to.( First time with this partner) So I didn't climb that day. Also I have belayed in the past with out an anchor but the more proper training and research I do it seems lame not to. But then again sport climbing is a different scene. I noticed a lot of people in the popular sport climbing area's not anchoring. 1 post, live in Mammoth and asking how to do anchor? elementary level troll
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jt512
May 15, 2011, 4:41 PM
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moresnowplease wrote: majid_sabet wrote: moresnowplease wrote: Noob on this forum... Ive been sport climbing about 10 times and am very new to this sport. I learned with a guy who was really solid but now have to find new partners because he moved. In doing so I have come across a variety of cool people whos attitudes vary regarding technique and safety. I want to learn more and more and eventually be able to climb some big walls with a gear. I live in Mammoth Lakes in the Eastern Sierra so there is a quite a community up here of all types. My question is this. I see a ton of people sport climbing with no anchor. IS this super common? I mean I want to set anchors but I sorta got the pressure not to.( First time with this partner) So I didn't climb that day. Also I have belayed in the past with out an anchor but the more proper training and research I do it seems lame not to. But then again sport climbing is a different scene. I noticed a lot of people in the popular sport climbing area's not anchoring. 1 post, live in Mammoth and asking how to do anchor? elementary level troll BTW...we have jack ass's like you on the ski forum too. Would rather be mean than provide helpful answers. It takes just as much time to type something helpful than it does to be a jerk. I hope this is not how this forum is going to be.
I once hoped the forum would be full of people who knew not to use an apostrophe to form a plural. As mine were, so too will your hopes be dashed.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 15, 2011, 8:10 PM)
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Three cheers for kernmantle!!! 
