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Communication when you can't hear each other
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enigma


May 8, 2011, 3:41 PM
Post #76 of 78 (1577 views)
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279

Re: [rgold] Communication when you can't hear each other [In reply to]
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rgold wrote:
billl7 wrote:
I am curious about your method ...

If I understand, you went on to indicate just two verbals when at opposite ends of a pitch: "Off belay" and "Climb". Do you mean you use rope signals all the time when at opposite ends of a pitch, even when verbals are working? Like this ...

a) leader anchors in;
b) leader yells "Off belay" (and waits a bit);
c) leader tries to quickly pull up five armloads of rope;

... if the rope comes easy in 'c' just keep pulling until all the rope is up then ...

w) lower a few feet of rope;
x) thread the belay device;
y) take back the few feet of slack;
z) yell "Climb".

Bill L

It's almost what I do. If the leader shouts "off belay" and gets a "belay off" response from the second, then no need to pull up a bunch of rope against the belayer's belay. With the belayer known to be off belay, the leader pulls up the rope hand over hand, lets some back down when no more can be taken in, threads the device, takes the slack back in, and shouts "climb."

If the leader doesn't get a "belay off" response after shouting "off belay," then incommunicado protocol described earlier is invoked.

Make sure to have everything ready for belaying (belay gloves on if you are using them, device clipped and ready to go) before starting these protocols.


This thread seems quite helpful considering the recent communication errors in accidents.
Any feedback ?


jomagam


Jul 6, 2011, 3:13 PM
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Re: [rgold] Communication when you can't hear each other [In reply to]
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5 stars as well. Most of the communication is for the situation where everything goes right. Is there a contingency plan, say if the leader is hanging on the rope for 10 minutes. Just lower, right ? What if the second is hanging ?

It sounds trivial, but I made the mistake of starting to climb with a non-English speaker without agreeing what the basic commands are.


billl7


Jul 6, 2011, 3:29 PM
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Re: [jomagam] Communication when you can't hear each other [In reply to]
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jomagam wrote:
Most of the communication is for the situation where everything goes right. Is there a contingency plan, say if the leader is hanging on the rope for 10 minutes. Just lower, right ? What if the second is hanging ?

Lowering may be good or it may make the situation worse. If the belayer can neither hear nor see what's needed, the generic best thing may be to efficiently escape the belay and go have a look.

However, I may not wait 10 minutes with no discernable activity. "Having a look" is going to take some time and a hanging and unconcious climber is a serious issue if that is the case (i.e., harness hang syndrome).

All that said, the actual circumstances may dictate some other action than having a look.

Bill L

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