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Justin20
Jul 1, 2011, 3:27 AM
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Just want to know if you can toprope off of rappel anchors at sport climb spots? Not allot of topropping spots here besides all the hidden ones that only the guides know of there location.
It is a easy grade of 5.7 but am not totally ready for lead climbing right yet, maybe after a few sends on toprope. Thanks for your help
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Colinhoglund
Jul 1, 2011, 5:04 AM
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Sure if you can safely get to them.
Build your own anchor off the bolts/rings, thats standard practice as it saves wear on the fixed gear. If it's at a popular area have a lap or two and move on if someone is waiting for the route. Have fun and wait . . .
YEEEERRRRRRRRGOOOOOONNNNNNNAAAAADIIIIIIEEEEEE!!!!!
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Kartessa
Jul 1, 2011, 5:08 AM
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Justin20 wrote: Just want to know if you can toprope off of rappel anchors at sport climb spots?
Sure, so long as you don't thread the rope directly through them
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Justin20
Jul 1, 2011, 5:13 AM
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So your saying build your own anchor as you would if you had placed the pro yourself?
I see your in Alberta? I was going to the morro slabs east of Jasper, where except for a spot by the river it is all sport. You happen to know of beginner top rope spots in the Jasper area? I am bringing a weaker climber along that is the main reason for top ropping.
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Whizzkid
Jul 1, 2011, 7:22 AM
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You might want to make sure that the anchor/bolts are solid, too.
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rtwilli4
Jul 1, 2011, 9:39 AM
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Kind of hard to give you specific answers on the internet. No one wants to tell you something that gets you dead.
Best to find someone who can teach you in real life. I'm sure there are other climbers around these areas? Offer 'em a 6 pack...
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olderic
Jul 1, 2011, 2:06 PM
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It's kind of hard to give generic advice from an armchair thousands of miles away - not that that stops 99% of the responses here - but I won't let that stop me. But I would suggest soliciting some local advice and opinion - at the very least observe local practice. Often times the anchors are set to be inaccessible or difficult to reach from above. The idea being to minimize access to the top of the cliff (erosion and knocking things on those below, sometimes to prevent vandalism). That may/may not be the case at the are you are talking about. If there are concrete steps, handrails and a well worn path to the top then it is probably acceptable to use them to set up a TR. Then, like others have said, the only concern is that the rope end up running through your own biners and not directly trough fixed perma-gear.
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marc801
Jul 1, 2011, 2:29 PM
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Whizzkid wrote: You might want to make sure that the anchor/bolts are solid, too.
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Whizzkid
Jul 1, 2011, 4:29 PM
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Off the top of my head:
1. are there loose parts?
2. can I move the bolt with my hands?
3. is there excessive corrosion visible?
or sth like that...
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bearbreeder
Jul 1, 2011, 5:01 PM
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go with someone who can lead 5.7 ... 
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Lbrombach
Jul 1, 2011, 5:48 PM
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If you can safely reach those rap anchors, very often you can just clip a couple of quickdraws in with gates facing oppositely and toprope through that. As mention, don't run your rope right through the permanent gear - use your own biners.
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stealth
Jul 1, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Whizzkid wrote: Off the top of my head: 1. are there loose parts? 2. can I move the bolt with my hands? 3. is there excessive corrosion visible? or sth like that...
Yes!
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Colinhoglund
Jul 3, 2011, 12:51 AM
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As everyone else is saying, build your anchor off the fixed gear. Don't just toprope directly through the fixed gear. This is a simple concept so you missing it concerns me a bit. I propose buying John Long's "climbing anchors" book and getting familiar with the concepts, then learning from a local or a guide how properly make a safe climbing system.
Learn to do things right and live long and have fun, if you don't then PANCAKES!
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p8ntballsk8r
Jul 3, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Lbrombach wrote: If you can safely reach those rap anchors, very often you can just clip a couple of quickdraws in with gates facing oppositely and toprope through that. As mention, don't run your rope right through the permanent gear - use your own biners.
Can you clip your own draws directly to the lowering biners, or should they be clipped to the chains if there are chains?
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Jul 6, 2011, 5:46 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Lbrombach wrote: If you can safely reach those rap anchors, very often you can just clip a couple of quickdraws in with gates facing oppositely and toprope through that. As mention, don't run your rope right through the permanent gear - use your own biners. Can you clip your own draws directly to the lowering biners, or should they be clipped to the chains if there are chains?
I usually go straight for the bolt.
edit: trying to remember the last time I saw both lowering biners and chains at an anchor. Isn't it usually one or the other?
(This post was edited by squierbypetzl on Jul 6, 2011, 5:48 AM)
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