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Omphalos
Jul 11, 2011, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2011
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Hi all,
I'm curious about good ways to shorten a bluewater spectra runner in order to equalize a simple top rope anchor off of 2 bolts.
The relevant set up and description of the problem are in this old thread here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
A proposed solution to the question was posted as an image in that thread, but the image link is now dead.
I know I could buy a longer sling and use a sliding X, but instead I have two shorter slings and no extra cash. As I understand it, simply tying overhand or figure 8 knots in the runners will reduce their strength. Another perspective is that these things are so strong, the reduction in strength is insignificant.
Any advice on the subject is appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Side question: Are the terms "sling" and "runner" used interchangeably?
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Rudmin
Jul 11, 2011, 5:05 PM
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I don't know what a basket hitch is. If you want to adjust the length just a little bit, you can add extra raps around the carabiner. If you want to shorten a sling even more you can fold it in half. And yes, a sling and a runner is the same thing.
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j_ung
Jul 11, 2011, 5:07 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Omphalos wrote: Hi all, I'm curious about good ways to shorten a bluewater spectra runner in order to equalize a simple top rope anchor off of 2 bolts. The relevant set up and description of the problem are in this old thread here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25; A proposed solution to the question was posted as an image in that thread, but the image link is now dead. I know I could buy a longer sling and use a sliding X, but instead I have two shorter slings and no extra cash. As I understand it, simply tying overhand or figure 8 knots in the runners will reduce their strength. Another perspective is that these things are so strong, the reduction in strength is insignificant. Any advice on the subject is appreciated. Thanks in advance! Side question: Are the terms "sling" and "runner" used interchangeably?
You're correct on all counts. Knots reduce strength, but not to a significant extent in your case. However, you don't have to tie any knots. Simply clip one sling to each bolt, then clip the rope through reversed and opposed biners at the bottom of each sling. Voila.
Runners are subsets of slings. A runner is a sling used to reduce rope drag in a running belay.
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Omphalos
Jul 11, 2011, 5:16 PM
Post #4 of 16
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Registered: Jul 6, 2011
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Ah thanks,
extra wraps is an obvious solution - thanks for your time!
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sbaclimber
Jul 11, 2011, 7:53 PM
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acorneau wrote: Rudmin wrote: I don't know what a basket hitch is. WHAT?!? At the risk of failing to notice sarcasm... This is a Basket hitch, although for climbers it usually looks like the one on the right. [image]http://xnet.rrc.mb.ca/rcharney/images/knots/Knots_26_Basket_Hitch.jpg[/image]
It doesn't seem like anything that should be used for climbing anchors either....
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sbaclimber
Jul 12, 2011, 1:05 PM
Post #11 of 16
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rescueman wrote: Obviously you're not an industrial rigger, 
rescueman wrote: Perhaps you know it as der Korb Haken 
Btw, I think people might get the wrong idea if you started calling a girth-hitch a "Choker".
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rescueman
Jul 12, 2011, 5:40 PM
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Speaking of girth hitches, chokers and lark's heads...
Does anyone know how to tie a girth hitch around a pole at the middle of a long rope without having to pull the ends all the way through the bight?
Just substitute the spine of a 'biner for this toggle. Makes it quick to release as well.
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sbaclimber
Jul 12, 2011, 6:40 PM
Post #14 of 16
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rescueman wrote: sbaclimber wrote: Btw, I think people might get the wrong idea if you started calling a girth-hitch a "Choker". How about a Lark's Head? Is that a more politically correct name? [image]http://www.embroidery-methods.com/image-files/larks-head-knot.jpg[/image]
And, if you find a climber who crochets, you might find someone who knows what you are talking about....
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sbaclimber
Jul 12, 2011, 6:43 PM
Post #15 of 16
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rescueman wrote: Just substitute the spine of a 'biner for this toggle. Makes it quick to release as well. [image]http://www.layhands.com/Knots/LarksHeadToggle.jpg[/image] 
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rescueman
Jul 12, 2011, 6:58 PM
Post #16 of 16
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sbaclimber wrote: And, if you find a climber who crochets, you might find someone who knows what you are talking about....
The Lark's Head, like most knots, was invented by mariners. The Lark's Head is often used on small sailboats to fasten a jib sheet to the clew.
from Wikipedia:
Also known by the names Cow hitch, Lark's head, Lark's foot, Girth hitch, Ring hitch, Lanyard hitch, Bale Sling hitch, Baggage Tag Loop, Tag Knot, Deadeye hitch, Running eye.
A simple and useful knotted structure, the cow hitch has been known since at least the first century when described by Greek physician Heraklas in a monograph on surgical knots and slings. Known under a variety of names, this knot has been used both on land and at sea. The common alternate name lark's head is attributed to Tom Bowling (pseudonym) in the 1866 work The Book of Knots which is presumed to have been adapted from a French manuscript; lark's head is a literal translation of the French name for the knot, tête d'alouette.
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