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guernica
Jul 21, 2011, 8:13 PM
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picked these up at my local climbing gym last night spent the night on the wall with them and WOW what a difference over the rentals i've been using
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Speed4TheNeed
Jul 21, 2011, 9:55 PM
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Possibly the sweetest looking pair of kicks Evolv manufactures.
Hope you are able to get your moneys worth out of them and don't shred them up too soon. I don't know what your gym's quiver of shoes looks like, but that is probably several performance steps up.
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guernica
Jul 21, 2011, 10:46 PM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote: Possibly the sweetest looking pair of kicks Evolv manufactures. Hope you are able to get your moneys worth out of them and don't shred them up too soon. I don't know what your gym's quiver of shoes looks like, but that is probably several performance steps up.
any recommendations on up keep or cleaning to extend the life of these guys?
G
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Speed4TheNeed
Jul 21, 2011, 11:53 PM
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You're asking the wrong guy lol.
The advice generally given to beginners is to not buy an expensive, high performance pair first mostly because:
1.) A beginner generally lacks good footwork and will therefore trash the shoe (any shoe) much faster than an experienced climber, and
2.) a beginner usually lacks technique to take advantage of any features a high performance shoe offers anyway.
This is entirely subjective on your abilities, though, much less your income level. "Expensive" is a HIGHLY relative term.
I mostly took the above advice and got an intermediate pair on sale (the newer version Evolv Evo). It's not an extremely high performance shoe, but it suits my needs (plus a little to mature into). What your needs are could be entirely different.
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sungam
Jul 22, 2011, 12:05 AM
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Don't toe drag, place your feet carefully while looking at them.
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mikebee
Jul 22, 2011, 1:15 AM
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Also, don't store them on the inside of your pack, leave them plenty of space to air out. Evolv can get really stinky otherwise.
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Learner
Jul 22, 2011, 1:53 AM
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guernica wrote: picked these up at my local climbing gym last night spent the night on the wall with them and WOW what a difference over the rentals i've been using
Another aspect of the shoe that can have a dramatic effect on your climbing performance is the shape of the shoe. People's feet come in different shapes, and you should pick your shoes according to the shape of your foot. For example, a person that wants a very aggressive shoe for steep terrain and has a narrow forefoot would likely do really well with La Sportiva Solutions. However, someone else with a more box-shaped forefoot may be better off with the Evolv Shamans for the same exact applications. Be open about trying out different shoes. You may think you've found the best shoe for you, then one day discover something that works even better.
I haven't tried out the Geshido SC, but they look to be rad. I have the Evolv Shamans, which also have that middle strap, and I actually prefer this 3-strap system over laces. I feel it sucks the middle part of the shoe up into the middle part of the bottom of your foot and I'm tempted to say you have even more control over the fit of this portion of the shoe with the 3-strap system compared to laces. This is because when you use a lace-up shoe, and tighten different areas (front, middle, or back) to different degrees, the overall tightness can become more distributed as you climb, thereby undoing your efforts to custom-fit the tightness in different areas. With this 3-strap system, however, your custom tightness among the front, middle, and back of the shoe will maintain, because the tightness of those different areas in no way depend on one another. I feel that pulling that middle strap fairly tight can give me control in that area above any lace-up or velcro shoe I've ever worn.
(This post was edited by Learner on Jul 22, 2011, 1:56 AM)
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guernica
Jul 22, 2011, 3:50 AM
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Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them
G
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sungam
Jul 22, 2011, 9:58 AM
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guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G
You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee.
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j_ung
Jul 22, 2011, 11:36 AM
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guernica wrote: Speed4TheNeed wrote: Possibly the sweetest looking pair of kicks Evolv manufactures. Hope you are able to get your moneys worth out of them and don't shred them up too soon. I don't know what your gym's quiver of shoes looks like, but that is probably several performance steps up. any recommendations on up keep or cleaning to extend the life of these guys? G
Yes! Spend time every session working on foot placement and precision. Your shoes will love you for it—and you'll be a better climber.
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guernica
Jul 22, 2011, 3:20 PM
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sungam wrote: guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G Yes, YES! Finally someone did it right! You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee.
haha thanks man when it comes to footwear for a specific purpose I have got to be comfortable in them. If a $20 pair of what ever feels better to me than a $200 pair then i'm going with the $20 pair and vice versa
G
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carabiner96
Jul 22, 2011, 4:06 PM
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guernica wrote: sungam wrote: guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G Yes, YES! Finally someone did it right! You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee. haha thanks man when it comes to footwear for a specific purpose I have got to be comfortable in them. If a $20 pair of what ever feels better to me than a $200 pair then i'm going with the $20 pair and vice versa G
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Speed4TheNeed
Jul 22, 2011, 7:49 PM
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I'm pretty sure that was meant solely as an analogy.
Just for the sake of argument, how many people do you know that spent $20 on a new pair of climbing shoes? ;)
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carabiner96
Jul 22, 2011, 8:03 PM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote: I'm pretty sure that was meant solely as an analogy. Just for the sake of argument, how many people do you know that spent $20 on a new pair of climbing shoes? ;)
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guernica
Jul 22, 2011, 8:16 PM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote: I'm pretty sure that was meant solely as an analogy. Just for the sake of argument, how many people do you know that spent $20 on a new pair of climbing shoes? ;)
100% analogy and i wasn't referring to just climbing shoes. I own a bicycle shop and run and I have this mindset for any tech shoe. If it doesn't fit my foot right it doesn't matter how much it costs or doesn't cost.
G
Also care wise what I have been doing so far is wiping the soles off with a paper towel with water on it...good bad or indifferent?
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sungam
Jul 22, 2011, 8:46 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: Speed4TheNeed wrote: I'm pretty sure that was meant solely as an analogy. Just for the sake of argument, how many people do you know that spent $20 on a new pair of climbing shoes? ;) $20? Just a handful. $50-$80 seems standard.
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Speed4TheNeed
Jul 22, 2011, 9:06 PM
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I WISH that were me.
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Learner
Jul 22, 2011, 9:39 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: guernica wrote: sungam wrote: guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G Yes, YES! Finally someone did it right! You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee. haha thanks man when it comes to footwear for a specific purpose I have got to be comfortable in them. If a $20 pair of what ever feels better to me than a $200 pair then i'm going with the $20 pair and vice versa G If you pay more than $100 for climbing shoes, yore doing it rong.
Like it or not, once you are attempting certain grades, your shoes can become a limiting factor.
(This post was edited by Learner on Jul 22, 2011, 9:42 PM)
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sungam
Jul 22, 2011, 9:47 PM
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Learner wrote: carabiner96 wrote: guernica wrote: sungam wrote: guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G Yes, YES! Finally someone did it right! You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee. haha thanks man when it comes to footwear for a specific purpose I have got to be comfortable in them. If a $20 pair of what ever feels better to me than a $200 pair then i'm going with the $20 pair and vice versa G If you pay more than $100 for climbing shoes, yore doing it rong. With that attitude you can get very comfortable. Because just as you have been, you will continue to climb in the 5.6-5.8 range. Like it or not, once you are attempting certain grades, your shoes can become a limiting factor.
Of course, cuz you're SO much better at climbing then 'Biner is.
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Speed4TheNeed
Jul 22, 2011, 9:55 PM
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I would assume climbing ability has a lot to do with what you can climb with what type of shoe. A very high level climber may be able to still knock down high grade level routes with a pair of tennies, but will he climb at his limit with them? Probably not.
Case in point: I am a novice and I was fortunate to have a pair of rock climbing shoes on some of the routes I did outdoors for the first time. Without them, I may not have been able to climb the route. What did my guide use to lead climb the very same walls? A pair of what looked to be Old Navy flip flops.
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carabiner96
Jul 22, 2011, 10:28 PM
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Learner wrote: carabiner96 wrote: guernica wrote: sungam wrote: guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G Yes, YES! Finally someone did it right! You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee. haha thanks man when it comes to footwear for a specific purpose I have got to be comfortable in them. If a $20 pair of what ever feels better to me than a $200 pair then i'm going with the $20 pair and vice versa G If you pay more than $100 for climbing shoes, yore doing it rong. With that attitude you can get very comfortable. Because you will continue to climb in the 5.6-5.8 range. Like it or not, once you are attempting certain grades, your shoes can become a limiting factor.
Wow, way to totally miss the point and top it off the a smidgen of douche (you know, for extra flavor).
My go to shoes are listed at $140. I paid $85. That was my point, home fry.
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guernica
Jul 22, 2011, 10:39 PM
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biner where did you find your shoes for 85? I own a local business and like to support other local businesses as i know how hard it is to compete with the internet these days.
G
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carabiner96
Jul 22, 2011, 10:50 PM
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A local brick and mortar store that's consistently been a fave of mine. They do large volumes so sale price plus a volunteer discount... Always wait for sales and coupons.
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Learner
Jul 22, 2011, 11:40 PM
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carabiner96 wrote: Learner wrote: carabiner96 wrote: guernica wrote: sungam wrote: guernica wrote: Thanks for all the input advice and feedback. It wasn't my intentions to buy a super highend super technical shoe I tried every model that they had on and picked the ones that I liked the fit of and went with them G Yes, YES! Finally someone did it right! You, sir, restore my faith in huge-manitee. haha thanks man when it comes to footwear for a specific purpose I have got to be comfortable in them. If a $20 pair of what ever feels better to me than a $200 pair then i'm going with the $20 pair and vice versa G If you pay more than $100 for climbing shoes, yore doing it rong. With that attitude you can get very comfortable. Because you will continue to climb in the 5.6-5.8 range. Like it or not, once you are attempting certain grades, your shoes can become a limiting factor. Wow, way to totally miss the point and top it off the a smidgen of douche (you know, for extra flavor). My go to shoes are listed at $140. I paid $85. That was my point, home fry.
I agree with you, then. My current go-to shoes retail for $145, and I got a pair for $87.
(This post was edited by Learner on Jul 22, 2011, 11:52 PM)
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climbingtrash
Jul 23, 2011, 2:54 AM
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guernica wrote: Speed4TheNeed wrote: Possibly the sweetest looking pair of kicks Evolv manufactures. Hope you are able to get your moneys worth out of them and don't shred them up too soon. I don't know what your gym's quiver of shoes looks like, but that is probably several performance steps up. any recommendations on up keep or cleaning to extend the life of these guys? G
Honey badger the shit outta them and then get a new pair.
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