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johnwesely
Dec 20, 2011, 3:43 AM
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6pacfershur's posts remind me of my dad when he talks about climbing. My dad has climbed a total of three days in his life.
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6pacfershur
Dec 20, 2011, 3:48 AM
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this thread is trolled-out.......
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rangerrob
Dec 20, 2011, 4:18 AM
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6pac, I am actually pretty interested to hear why you think it is lame. You seem to have a very strong opinion about aid climbing and I'mjust curious as to why.
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climbingtrash
Dec 20, 2011, 4:48 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: to clarify.... aid climbing on established free climbs is lame; (seems im in the minority on this one) can you explain why?
Probably because he thinks aid climbing = pounding pins, which would be uncool on a free route.
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hyhuu
Dec 20, 2011, 12:28 PM
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Back to the original topic. Now while I can only dream of ever climbing something that hard, I can't believe the 10th hardest roof crack is only a 5.13a. The hardmen and hardwomen out there must be slacking.
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 1:10 PM
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hyhuu wrote: Back to the original topic. Now while I can only dream of ever climbing something that hard, I can't believe the 10th hardest roof crack is only a 5.13a. The hardmen and hardwomen out there must be slacking.
Thanks for getting back to the topic!
I'm not sure where the "10th hardest" designation comes from; I would expect that it goes back to Tim Toula's big quest to climb the nation's hardest roof cracks back in the late 90s or so. It has seen very few ascents, but like anything in the Southeast, this could be due to conditions more than its inherent difficulty. I have heard it called more like "12+" from someone who climbed it.
Although roof cracks are not the most popular style of climbing right now, it would be cool to revamp the "10 hardest" list. I'll get right on it, since my trip to T-wall just got postponed by rain. 
(This post was edited by camhead on Dec 20, 2011, 1:11 PM)
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 1:53 PM
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Hardest Roof Cracks in North America (no OWs or boulder problems need apply)
La Zébreé, 14a, Val-David, Quebec. FA: Jean-Francois Beaulieu (pre-placed gear); PeeWee Ouellett (placing gear on lead)
Necronomicon, 13+/14-, Canyonlands. FA: PeeWee Ouellett.
Comprometido, South Platte, CO, FA: Jason Haas.
Fiddler on the Roof, 13d, Fremont Canyon, WY. FA: Steve Petro.
Army of Darkness, 13+, Canyonlands, FA: Rob Pizem.
Master Blaster, 13+, Zion, FA: Ben Gilkinson.
Those are the cracks in North America that I can think of in the 13+ and up range.
There are a lot of 13-'s. Thermonuclear at Dawson's, Champagne Jam at Sandrock; Tamper Proof & Supernova at T-wall; Greatest Show on Earth and Biodiesel at the NRG; Toit de Ben at Val-David; Zombie Roof in Squamish; Desert Reality in Red Rocks (though the roof section is only 11+).
Any additions?
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IsayAutumn
Dec 20, 2011, 3:36 PM
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What did that (finger?) crack above Handsome and Well Hung end up going at? I think I remember it only being 13-, but I could be wrong.
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IsayAutumn
Dec 20, 2011, 3:43 PM
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camhead wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: What did that (finger?) crack above Handsome and Well Hung end up going at? I think I remember it only being 13-, but I could be wrong. that's thermonuclear, 13b. I don't think it's seen a repeat. there are a lot of rumors of looseness getting up to it.
Oh, I see. I guess I was confused, then, by the title of this thread. Thought the OP was talking about a crack in KY...?
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camhead
Dec 20, 2011, 4:02 PM
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IsayAutumn wrote: camhead wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: What did that (finger?) crack above Handsome and Well Hung end up going at? I think I remember it only being 13-, but I could be wrong. that's thermonuclear, 13b. I don't think it's seen a repeat. there are a lot of rumors of looseness getting up to it. Oh, I see. I guess I was confused, then, by the title of this thread. Thought the OP was talking about a crack in KY...?
Oh shit, my bad. Typed the wrong route name. The route at the NRG above "Handsome..." is "Biodiesel," NOT Thermonuclear. Wrong energy source.
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hyhuu
Dec 20, 2011, 7:08 PM
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Interesting. So is any of those roof cracks off-finger size? What qualifies as a "roof crack"?
(This post was edited by hyhuu on Dec 20, 2011, 7:10 PM)
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hyhuu
Dec 20, 2011, 8:39 PM
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camhead wrote: hyhuu wrote: Interesting. So is any of those roof cracks off-finger size? What qualifies as a "roof crack"? The only one I know that is off-fingers would be Master Blaster, though others might have short sections of off-fingers. To define a "roof crack," this criteria would make sense: -at least a body length long (you should not be able to reach over it while your feet are still plastered underneath it) -Between 45 and 90 degrees overhanging -can't be a corner in which you can undercling (though a lot of the routes on the list are not splitters, either, they are offset to some degree) sound good?
Sound good. How steep is Cobra crack? I can't tell from the video.
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rangerrob
Dec 21, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Spinal Traction definitely qualifies for a roof crack. Right now I nominate it as the hardest roof crack attempted. Anyone else want to put forth another project roof crack?
I'm still waiting to hear back from 6pac about his reasoning for such a strong statement. Come on 6pac, come play with us!!
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briarpatch
Dec 21, 2011, 5:14 PM
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I got in it (Thermonuclear) a few times about five years ago. My best effort got me to the end of the roof where it starts the round transition to vertical. Mostly perfect hands with fists at the transition. The first five feet of the roof was a bit perplexing to figure out. Overall, a really cool 25' of horizontal roof with some pretty gymnastic climbing (did close to 20' of it feet first).
As far as the grade goes I don't have much to compare it to, but 12+ seems reasonable. Specific training on roof simulators would be very helpful. This one is all about endurance and overall fitness. I may have poor pic of it somewhere.
Chris
(This post was edited by briarpatch on Dec 22, 2011, 5:56 AM)
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