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bearbreeder
Jan 26, 2012, 12:18 AM
Post #102 of 105
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i always took running belays to mean one where the bottom climber wa unanchored ... whether simuling or not ...
in this UIAA document ... i doubt that that running belay simply means top piece as we have ... stance vs. running belay
edit ... i should clarify my running=dynamic belay ... what i should have said is an unachored belay and thus possibly dynamic ... bleh
not that it really matters except to RC folks ... its not like were dealing with stuff like "lower", "on/off belay", "climb on" ... which can have real consequences if your screw up the terminology
if i need what some people may call a "running belay" ... i tell my belayer in no uncertain terms to "run the fcuk back" should i fall
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jan 26, 2012, 12:25 AM)
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cracklover
Jan 26, 2012, 5:22 PM
Post #103 of 105
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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bearbreeder wrote: i always took running belays to mean one where the bottom climber wa unanchored ... whether simuling or not ... in this UIAA document ... i doubt that that running belay simply means top piece as we have ... stance vs. running belay edit ... i should clarify my running=dynamic belay ... what i should have said is an unachored belay and thus possibly dynamic ... bleh not that it really matters except to RC folks ... its not like were dealing with stuff like "lower", "on/off belay", "climb on" ... which can have real consequences if your screw up the terminology if i need what some people may call a "running belay" ... i tell my belayer in no uncertain terms to "run the fcuk back" should i fall
No, you seem to just misunderstand the phrase. Without seeing the context from which you drew that figure I can't be sure, but it seems pretty clear that the column on the left is what you might consider an "anchor", and the column on the right is a piece placed by a leader as part of the protection system while on lead. AKA, a "running belay".
And yes of course it matters in real life. IRL I read things and learn from them, and I communicate with others, sometimes using complex terms. If I misunderstand what I read, does that not impact my understanding? Or if I myself understand, but I communicate poorly, does that not lead others to misunderstand?
"Running belay" is a term that means different things in different contexts. The OP did a great job at using it appropriately. No need to mess things up.
GO
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jt512
Jan 26, 2012, 6:16 PM
Post #104 of 105
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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cracklover wrote: bearbreeder wrote: i always took running belays to mean one where the bottom climber wa unanchored ... whether simuling or not ... in this UIAA document ... i doubt that that running belay simply means top piece as we have ... stance vs. running belay [image]http://i39.tinypic.com/9lk2e1.png[/image] edit ... i should clarify my running=dynamic belay ... what i should have said is an unachored belay and thus possibly dynamic ... bleh not that it really matters except to RC folks ... its not like were dealing with stuff like "lower", "on/off belay", "climb on" ... which can have real consequences if your screw up the terminology if i need what some people may call a "running belay" ... i tell my belayer in no uncertain terms to "run the fcuk back" should i fall No, you seem to just misunderstand the phrase. Without seeing the context from which you drew that figure I can't be sure, but it seems pretty clear that the column on the left is what you might consider an "anchor", and the column on the right is a piece placed by a leader as part of the protection system while on lead. AKA, a "running belay". And yes of course it matters in real life. IRL I read things and learn from them, and I communicate with others, sometimes using complex terms. If I misunderstand what I read, does that not impact my understanding? Or if I myself understand, but I communicate poorly, does that not lead others to misunderstand? "Running belay" is a term that means different things in different contexts. The OP did a great job at using it appropriately. No need to mess things up. GO
I've seen this document, and you're right that the UIAA is using "running belay" in the traditional sense of a piece of pro between belays. I have no idea what Sterling is talking about in the previous document. They don't define the term, and the context doesn't do much to clarify the meaning.
Jay
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JimTitt
Jan 26, 2012, 6:24 PM
Post #105 of 105
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Registered: Aug 7, 2008
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A running belay has always been a point of protection the rope runs through as opposed to a fixed belay. It was when I started climbing, is defined as such in the Dictionary of Mountaineering which I got in 1967 and is the definition we all use in industry, including the UIAA. Itīs also the definition given in the Collins English dictionary. The Oxford English Dictionary gives it as `a device attached to a rock face through which a climbing rope runs freely, acting as a pulley if the climber falls.ī
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