|
nikegirl
Nov 5, 2001, 8:05 PM
Post #1 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2001
Posts: 5662
|
Where to put this? I think here, only because I would like the input from bouldering (beta) junkies.
I have only been in the Gym to boulder. Real rock, is totally different...I have good luck at the gym....but, outdoors??? I absolutly fried my hands, and couldn't bring myself up past a second move.
What type of training, specifically for bouldering, is out there?
My problem, was pulling. Pulling and hand placement....and footing...LOL
Aw, heck any thing would help...I'm stumped.
BTW, remember, I'm a girl(for me that matters) ...be realistic...with the beta. I can hardly do one pull up...but, can do 100 crunches...push-ups no problem...
dips, ect...I PSHAW(Dr. Pitons, term) the campus board...only at my lack of strength...
Start at a beginning point...please.
Kinda sound demanding...not meaning to.. just want help, badly.
T
|
|
|
|
|
tangboy
Nov 5, 2001, 8:33 PM
Post #2 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2001
Posts: 241
|
nikegirl,
the best way for me, was just bouldering. from what i hear though girls are much better off at climbing than guys when they begin because they rely on their whole body, whereas guys think its all about the pullups. i used to boulder everyday, but no i have had to trickle down to about twice a week because i have lost all my skin on my fingertips from crimping and my tendons in my index fingers are pretty sore! but i foundout i gained a lot just from getting out everday and doing stuff, even if its just for 15-30 minutes! hope this helped at all.
tang
|
|
|
|
|
talons05
Nov 5, 2001, 10:46 PM
Post #3 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 1435
|
To train for bouldering.... Boulder. Ha ha, that sounds dumb i know. Also, I have found that traverses improve bouldering skill a lot.
AW
|
|
|
|
|
tangboy
Nov 7, 2001, 5:22 AM
Post #4 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2001
Posts: 241
|
Another tip - down climbing slight overhangs really KILLS your arms! catching your whole body weight over and over on small ledges and jugs really helps with that contact strength!!! so get out there and JUST BOULDER!
tang
|
|
|
|
|
scrappy
Nov 7, 2001, 5:39 AM
Post #5 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2001
Posts: 25
|
Hey work on your weakest point. You won't be able to rely on crunches and dips for long. start working on those pullups. likewise i can do plenty of pullups but i can only do a few crunches (stop laughing) so thats what i am working on right now. It's all about trying to get the weakest link up to par with everything else.
|
|
|
|
|
fiend
Nov 17, 2001, 7:14 AM
Post #6 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669
|
Girly bouldering tip #408:
Learn to climb like a dumb boy.
Girls lack the basic power of Boys and are thus forced to use more technique in order to advance in their abilities. This is great but you have to be well rounded.
Learn to be explosive, throw for holds, grunt, bear down, etc. These moves help when you're starting to get pumped and have to make desperate moves before you fall off.
eg.
Girly moves from Hold A to Hold B in a slow, calm back-stepping, dropknee, static fashion.
Boy moves from Hold A to Hold C (skipping hold B) by cranking out a big lunge, cutting his feet loose and barely latching Hold C. He is now forced to scream in agony as he fights to maintain body tension, get that hand solid and regain foot placements.
I'm not saying that doing it the Boy way is any better but it's good to be able to do the power ape moves when you need to.
Parting Thought: Never underestimate the power of a good grunt.
[ This Message was edited by: fiend on 2001-11-16 23:25 ]
|
|
|
|
|
skupdogg
Nov 17, 2001, 9:36 AM
Post #7 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2001
Posts: 50
|
nikegirl - check out www.climbxmedia.com. they have a section of "pro tips" with a bunch of great training techniques, such as dead hangs, long pulls, and mind games. it's good stuff, hope it helps!
|
|
|
|
|
nikegirl
Nov 20, 2001, 10:27 PM
Post #8 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2001
Posts: 5662
|
skupdogg,
Thanks. I've been to: www.climbxmedia.com back in September, wasn't too pleased. I had a slow connection then...now, on cable modem. SWEET!
I liked the pro-tips. Amazing to watch.
I didn't know, that you can "hang"... to(stay)and get feet back on... I usually tend to let go...
new lesson learned, from your input. Thanks!
Any other basic pointers/training, I'm listening. Anyone?
Started modified pull-ups,two days ago. I'm hardly able to move my shoulder-blades today, it's a good pain...working on pull up strength.
T
|
|
|
|
|
nikegirl
Nov 20, 2001, 10:33 PM
Post #9 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2001
Posts: 5662
|
"never underestimate the power of a good grunt"
-my partner, the other day...told me I was too loud.
But, when I am at a crux...I do grunt...and I find the power. So...PPPPLLLLAAAAHHH!(sorry, didn't meant to spit ) to my partner...
last thing I need is to worry about that...and lose concentration...
huh???:(
T
|
|
|
|
|
colin
Nov 20, 2001, 11:15 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2001
Posts: 708
|
Like fiend said, don't be afraid to climb like a guy. That is the one area most new female climbers are lax in. Just throw it all down sometimes and pray you'll get that next hold. This gives you a MUCH better workout because you're working more muscles. Also, don't take the easy way out. When I'm bouldering I intentionally make the problem harder on myself (if it's one I've done).
and of course...JUST CLIMB
|
|
|
|
|
|
