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captainstatic
Sep 26, 2003, 9:00 PM
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Hello:
This is my first post on this bbs. My name is Bill Strachan, aka Captain Static among climbers. I am the President of the Ohio Climbers Association, Inc. and also serve on the Climbing Advisory Council of the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition. I recently attended the Access Fund LCO Summit as reported on previously under this forum.
We are always looking for Ohio climbers to get involved in local access issues and projects. Please feel free to send me a pm or e-mail if you would like to get involved with the OCA or if you have any questions about Ohio or other regional access issues.
Bill
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matthelj
Dec 15, 2008, 12:42 AM
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Captain Static,
I am young, ambitious, and addicted to climbing. I would like to go whatever I can to open up access to climbing areas in Ohio. In particular, I'm interested in the Clifton Gorge and John Bryan State park in Yellow Springs. What kind of steps can we take to re-open restricted areas and open new ones? Also, what does it take to make it legal to bolt the currently legal walls?
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suilenroc
Dec 15, 2008, 1:38 AM
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I think the OCA dissolved years back...
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matthelj
Dec 15, 2008, 1:50 AM
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Uh oh . . .
That's not good.
Well - I'll be in YS tomorrow. I'll try and find out why restrictions are up and how to approach removing them. I imagine talking to the ranger or village council would be the first step, right? Any tips?
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drfelatio
Dec 15, 2008, 3:41 AM
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I don't know about Clifton Gorge, but there's no point in bolting John Bryan's 25' tall, easily top-ropeable clifflines. If you manage to speak with any officials about expanding access at JB, I'd suggest not mentioning bolts. It'd probably turn them off right away.
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suilenroc
Dec 15, 2008, 5:35 AM
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In reply to: but there's no point in bolting John Bryan's 25' tall
I might go there to boulder if it was not against their bogus rulz!
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j_ung
Dec 15, 2008, 8:22 PM
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Easy now. Land managers read climbing boards.
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Maddhatter
Jan 2, 2009, 10:30 PM
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suilenroc wrote: In reply to: but there's no point in bolting John Bryan's 25' tall I might go there to boulder if it was not against their bogus rulz!
Yea, I did my first climbs there before it closed. It will never be opened to bolting or free climbing again.
Hell, it's not even the best wall that got closed around there. We are lucky to have what we have. Climbers make up just a small part of the people that use it and there is nothing to be done right now but try to follow the rules and hope we keep what we do have.
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captainstatic
Jan 20, 2009, 6:55 PM
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Glad to see that there might be some new interest in having an access organization in Ohio. The OCA Board made a concerted effort to involve more climbers and keep going but we couldn't build any momentum. The access issues in Ohio are daunting for what little rock there is.
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automated
Feb 6, 2009, 2:35 PM
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springfield gorge. back in tha day.
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captainstatic
Feb 23, 2009, 10:09 PM
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I was contacted yesterday by a former OCA Board member and officer who is also interested in reforming the group. He has initiated a discussion with the Access Fund for getting assistance in getting the organization back off the ground. I will keep posting as I find out more and would also like to hear from anyone interested in becoming involved.
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BrianS
May 18, 2009, 4:11 PM
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A group discussing access issues in NE Ohio has been created on Facebook with the hope that it will be a catalyst for the creation of an actual coalition. At this time a formal group and website have not been created. They are in the works. If you are interested, please follow the link below. Thank you.
http://www.facebook.com/inbox/#/group.php?gid=97431776163
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matthelj
May 29, 2009, 4:37 PM
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Ohio climbing organizations are coming along and this is good news. We should do everything we can to work together as tackling difficult access issues takes a lot of time, effort, and organization. The OCA is finally getting back on its feet with the first statewide meeting scheduled for July 25th in Columbus. If anybody is interested or has access ideas and/or projects, please contact me. Check out Ohioclimbers.com
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BrianS
Jun 29, 2009, 6:46 PM
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The NE Ohio Climbers Coalition is having their first cleanup event at Whipp's Ledges in the Hinckley Reservation on July 25 from 9am-1pm. Please join the NEOCC at the link below, and look in "events" for more information on the cleanup. Or contact me at NEOhioClimbers@gmail.com .
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=97431776163
--Brian
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dontmaytagme
Nov 18, 2009, 2:54 AM
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It did.
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mburdick
Oct 18, 2010, 3:28 AM
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I was at John Bryan the anchors need painted and some other stuff could be done to help the area out for climbers. I know they stopped climbing on the south upper gorge in the 1980's. Would like to see if we could get access I hear there are up to 50+ foot cliffs.
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oTrain
Apr 24, 2012, 8:46 PM
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I hate to revive an old thread but...
I have looking into the history of Ohio’s terrible and constantly declining access to what little rock can be found. I have found mention of the Ohio Climbers Association (OCA) including their website. Does this group still exist? If so, when/where do they meet? What are their current projects and how can I help??
My primary destinations are John Bryan and Paint Creek both of which have several undeveloped or prohibited climbing areas. I can be at RRG with two hours more drive but would rather spend my energy helping to open new Southern Ohio areas.
Additionally, why are lead and trad climbing banned at Paint Creek and John Bryan. I asked this of the staff at the Army Corps of engineers office at Paint Creek and got the answer I expected from them, “It has always been that way.” I don't foresee any gains being made by one person but perhaps this OCA has the resources and numbers to help bring change
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healyje
Apr 24, 2012, 8:53 PM
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If by 'lead' you mean bolted sport routes then you probably aren't going to get much traction there unless things have changed drastically over the decades which, given it's Ohio, is a bit hard to believe.
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