Forums: Climbing Information: Access Issues & Closures:
Ohio Climbers Association
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Access Issues & Closures

Premier Sponsor:

 


captainstatic


Sep 26, 2003, 2:00 PM
Post #1 of 19 (25138 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 201

Ohio Climbers Association
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello:

This is my first post on this bbs. My name is Bill Strachan, aka Captain Static among climbers. I am the President of the Ohio Climbers Association, Inc. and also serve on the Climbing Advisory Council of the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition. I recently attended the Access Fund LCO Summit as reported on previously under this forum.

We are always looking for Ohio climbers to get involved in local access issues and projects. Please feel free to send me a pm or e-mail if you would like to get involved with the OCA or if you have any questions about Ohio or other regional access issues.

Bill


matthelj


Dec 14, 2008, 4:42 PM
Post #2 of 19 (7136 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 26, 2008
Posts: 11

Re: [captainstatic] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Captain Static,

I am young, ambitious, and addicted to climbing. I would like to go whatever I can to open up access to climbing areas in Ohio. In particular, I'm interested in the Clifton Gorge and John Bryan State park in Yellow Springs. What kind of steps can we take to re-open restricted areas and open new ones? Also, what does it take to make it legal to bolt the currently legal walls?


suilenroc


Dec 14, 2008, 5:38 PM
Post #3 of 19 (7124 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [matthelj] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think the OCA dissolved years back...


matthelj


Dec 14, 2008, 5:50 PM
Post #4 of 19 (7120 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 26, 2008
Posts: 11

Re: [suilenroc] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Uh oh . . .

That's not good.

Well - I'll be in YS tomorrow. I'll try and find out why restrictions are up and how to approach removing them. I imagine talking to the ranger or village council would be the first step, right? Any tips?


suilenroc


Dec 14, 2008, 6:15 PM
Post #5 of 19 (7114 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [matthelj] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Check this thread... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...association;#1367307

pretty sure dontmaytagme is still active on Rc.com, maybe shoot him a PM. He is listed as an "Editor" for our state in the route database.

I would do some research, talk to the Access Fund( http://www.accessfund.org ), and be patient.


drfelatio


Dec 14, 2008, 7:41 PM
Post #6 of 19 (7098 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 475

Re: [matthelj] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't know about Clifton Gorge, but there's no point in bolting John Bryan's 25' tall, easily top-ropeable clifflines. If you manage to speak with any officials about expanding access at JB, I'd suggest not mentioning bolts. It'd probably turn them off right away.


suilenroc


Dec 14, 2008, 9:35 PM
Post #7 of 19 (7073 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581

Re: [drfelatio] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
but there's no point in bolting John Bryan's 25' tall

I might go there to boulder if it was not against their bogus rulz!


Partner j_ung


Dec 15, 2008, 12:22 PM
Post #8 of 19 (7004 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18689

Re: [suilenroc] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Easy now. Land managers read climbing boards.


Maddhatter


Jan 2, 2009, 2:30 PM
Post #9 of 19 (6872 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2008
Posts: 1752

Re: [suilenroc] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

suilenroc wrote:
In reply to:
but there's no point in bolting John Bryan's 25' tall

I might go there to boulder if it was not against their bogus rulz!


Yea, I did my first climbs there before it closed. It will never be opened to bolting or free climbing again.
Hell, it's not even the best wall that got closed around there. We are lucky to have what we have. Climbers make up just a small part of the people that use it and there is nothing to be done right now but try to follow the rules and hope we keep what we do have.


captainstatic


Jan 20, 2009, 10:55 AM
Post #10 of 19 (6767 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 201

Re: [Maddhatter] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Glad to see that there might be some new interest in having an access organization in Ohio. The OCA Board made a concerted effort to involve more climbers and keep going but we couldn't build any momentum. The access issues in Ohio are daunting for what little rock there is.


automated


Feb 6, 2009, 6:35 AM
Post #11 of 19 (6650 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2006
Posts: 16

Re: [captainstatic] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

springfield gorge. back in tha day.


captainstatic


Feb 23, 2009, 2:09 PM
Post #12 of 19 (6556 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 201

Re: [captainstatic] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was contacted yesterday by a former OCA Board member and officer who is also interested in reforming the group. He has initiated a discussion with the Access Fund for getting assistance in getting the organization back off the ground. I will keep posting as I find out more and would also like to hear from anyone interested in becoming involved.


BrianS


May 18, 2009, 9:11 AM
Post #13 of 19 (6188 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 22, 2006
Posts: 2

Re: [captainstatic] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A group discussing access issues in NE Ohio has been created on Facebook with the hope that it will be a catalyst for the creation of an actual coalition. At this time a formal group and website have not been created. They are in the works. If you are interested, please follow the link below. Thank you.

http://www.facebook.com/inbox/#/group.php?gid=97431776163


matthelj


May 29, 2009, 9:37 AM
Post #14 of 19 (6094 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 26, 2008
Posts: 11

Re: [BrianS] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ohio climbing organizations are coming along and this is good news. We should do everything we can to work together as tackling difficult access issues takes a lot of time, effort, and organization. The OCA is finally getting back on its feet with the first statewide meeting scheduled for July 25th in Columbus. If anybody is interested or has access ideas and/or projects, please contact me. Check out Ohioclimbers.com


BrianS


Jun 29, 2009, 11:46 AM
Post #15 of 19 (5858 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 22, 2006
Posts: 2

Re: [BrianS] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The NE Ohio Climbers Coalition is having their first cleanup event at Whipp's Ledges in the Hinckley Reservation on July 25 from 9am-1pm. Please join the NEOCC at the link below, and look in "events" for more information on the cleanup. Or contact me at NEOhioClimbers@gmail.com .

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=97431776163

--Brian


dontmaytagme


Nov 17, 2009, 6:54 PM
Post #16 of 19 (5315 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2003
Posts: 224

Re: [suilenroc] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It did.


mburdick


Oct 17, 2010, 8:28 PM
Post #17 of 19 (4775 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2010
Posts: 4

Re: [captainstatic] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was at John Bryan the anchors need painted and some other stuff could be done to help the area out for climbers. I know they stopped climbing on the south upper gorge in the 1980's. Would like to see if we could get access I hear there are up to 50+ foot cliffs.


oTrain


Apr 24, 2012, 1:46 PM
Post #18 of 19 (3487 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2012
Posts: 2

Re: [mburdick] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I hate to revive an old thread but...

I have looking into the history of Ohio’s terrible and constantly declining access to what little rock can be found. I have found mention of the Ohio Climbers Association (OCA) including their website. Does this group still exist? If so, when/where do they meet? What are their current projects and how can I help??
My primary destinations are John Bryan and Paint Creek both of which have several undeveloped or prohibited climbing areas. I can be at RRG with two hours more drive but would rather spend my energy helping to open new Southern Ohio areas.
Additionally, why are lead and trad climbing banned at Paint Creek and John Bryan. I asked this of the staff at the Army Corps of engineers office at Paint Creek and got the answer I expected from them, “It has always been that way.” I don't foresee any gains being made by one person but perhaps this OCA has the resources and numbers to help bring change


healyje


Apr 24, 2012, 1:53 PM
Post #19 of 19 (3477 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4199

Re: [oTrain] Ohio Climbers Association [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If by 'lead' you mean bolted sport routes then you probably aren't going to get much traction there unless things have changed drastically over the decades which, given it's Ohio, is a bit hard to believe.


Forums : Climbing Information : Access Issues & Closures

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$13.46 (10% off)
$17.95 (10% off)
$2.25 (10% off)
$16.16 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook