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cobbledik
May 23, 2012, 6:46 PM
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ipoloton wrote: So, tell me what you think! why?
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ipoloton
May 24, 2012, 12:41 AM
Post #27 of 55
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All right, This was fun. To know how you guys think was pretty cool. I guess I was not quite clear about my intention after all. What my concern was from the first point is safety. And it was really interesting that many of you rejected the idea of having another safety measure only because of safety. Let's take it from here. We spend a lot of money on our gear for our safety and ease of climb. We, say, upgrade our grigris to grigri 2 in order to make sure we have a better gear (not all of us actually do that, but i think we all agree that the mentality is there and so many climbers follow that). but it turns out that it's a failure and it could kill us. At the same time we resist another side of the technology to help us to stay safe. why is that? again, we are not talking about iphone apps. we are talking about a device in your backpack that can help us when need it. and of course we all have our share of brain. otherwise why would we become rock climbers? ;)
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Tjin
May 24, 2012, 7:20 AM
Post #28 of 55
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ipoloton wrote: All right, This was fun. To know how you guys think was pretty cool. I guess I was not quite clear about my intention after all. What my concern was from the first point is safety. And it was really interesting that many of you rejected the idea of having another safety measure only because of safety. Let's take it from here. We spend a lot of money on our gear for our safety and ease of climb. We, say, upgrade our grigris to grigri 2 in order to make sure we have a better gear (not all of us actually do that, but i think we all agree that the mentality is there and so many climbers follow that). but it turns out that it's a failure and it could kill us. At the same time we resist another side of the technology to help us to stay safe. why is that? again, we are not talking about iphone apps. we are talking about a device in your backpack that can help us when need it. and of course we all have our share of brain. otherwise why would we become rock climbers? ;) You got things wrong. People don't buy grigri's 2 because it is much safer. They buy it because it's new and fancy. Like any consumer product new on the market. As for electronics i can't think of anything i would need that does not exsist yet. All i would carry is already availible: - Headlights, plenty on the market. - Phone/SATphone/PLB/SPOT to call for help. - GPS to backup mine compass and map. - Photo/videocamera. As for the rest, electronics are not as reliable because they need batteries and everything else is done by skill and experience.
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JimTitt
May 24, 2012, 1:57 PM
Post #29 of 55
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The three things that would make a huge improvement to climber safety are a)not falling off, b)infallibly tying knots, c) stopping rockfall. Itīs vaguely conceivable that sometime in the distant future somebody might be able to come up with a reliable, foolproof, robust and affordable solution to b) but I doubt Iīll live long enough to see it (and wouldnīt buy it if it did exist). Electronics cannot do anything for the other issues and it is hard to see where electronics could realistically help improve climbing safety in any way whatsoever.
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Marylandclimber
May 26, 2012, 1:35 PM
Post #30 of 55
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Although some of these ideas sound good, imagine if it was really like that? Rock climbing would never be the same and would take a large part of the creativity such as placing gear. I like having a little fear in climbing to get an an awsome rush too. Some things like checking the angle measures of your anchor to know its safe sounds like it would save lifes, but lets not get to caught up in trying to use electricty in climbing.
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dynosore
May 26, 2012, 3:14 PM
Post #31 of 55
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I've spent the last week wandering western Colorado and eastern Utah. Other than having a general idea of where I was at, I just climbed something when it caught my eye. I ate when I was hungry, slept when I was tired, and fished or offroaded when I got my fill of climbing for the day. No app, no electronic devices to tell me if the next hold was a crimp or a sloped. No gps. I got lost high in the San Juans and almost ran out of gas. It's the most fun I've had in a while. Next week I get to go back to my corporate cattle pen and stare at a glowing box. No need for that when I'm trying to unwind.
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dan2see
May 26, 2012, 4:37 PM
Post #32 of 55
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We already have blood meters for diabetics to measure the sugar level in their blood, and clip-ons to measure oxygen saturation, too. We need a gadget to measure hydration level. A lot of folks don't know when they are getting thirsty. I'm always seeing folks skip their drinking because they're too busy or focused. Even the pros. I tend to over-compensate. That's not a problem, but in fact I don't know when I'm drinking more or less than I need, or if I'm simply mis-managing my resources and time. Also it might be useful to have an electrolyte meter. This simply confuses me.
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Gmburns2000
May 26, 2012, 4:41 PM
Post #33 of 55
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dan2see wrote: We already have blood meters for diabetics to measure the sugar level in their blood, and clip-ons to measure oxygen saturation, too. We need a gadget to measure hydration level. A lot of folks don't know when they are getting thirsty. I'm always seeing folks skip their drinking because they're too busy or focused. Even the pros. I tend to over-compensate. That's not a problem, but in fact I don't know when I'm drinking more or less than I need, or if I'm simply mis-managing my resources and time. Also it might be useful to have an electrolyte meter. This simply confuses me. This is a good idea.
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dan2see
May 26, 2012, 5:15 PM
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I could add that I have a Heart Rate Monitor. On a strenuous hike, I already know more-or-less how hard I'm working, and how much I'm sweating. But the HRM adds an objective measure of exactly how much work my body is putting out, and where. I've worn it only a couple of times, and frankly that's enough. I now understand much better how to manage myself on those long steep approaches. (Edit to add to my "additional" post) Although I don't see how a HRM would tell me much about actual rock-climbing. I think sport climbing is anaerobic.
(This post was edited by dan2see on May 26, 2012, 10:52 PM)
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special_blend
May 28, 2012, 4:30 AM
Post #35 of 55
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The other day I saw a climber with a solar panel hooked up to a small battery, hooked up to a nema 5-15 adapter which was powering a blender, to make margaritas at their camp site. Climbers need more of these setups.
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Raiders99999
May 28, 2012, 5:31 AM
Post #36 of 55
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Ok, I'll take a shot. I think that Laser rangefinders are missing from rock climbing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_rangefinder Have you ever stood at the base of a route looking up while wondering exactly how far away certain points of the climb were? If you had a Laser rangefinder, you could just point it at the anchors at the top of the pitch and it would shoot you back an accurate distance. Now, you don't have to entertain the question of "Is my rope long enough for this pitch?" or "Will I be able to lower off safely from there?" Another use of this could be measuring possible falling potential between bolts. For example, you could measure the distance between the first and second bolts to determine if you would have the possibility of decking if you blew the 2nd clip. I just think having these bits of info BEFORE you climb a route would better prepare you for some possible dangers you could come across while on the wall.
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tradmanclimbs
May 28, 2012, 10:15 AM
Post #37 of 55
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I am gonna have to go with a Tazer to zap all you winnies who need a fucking app to go climbing
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marc801
May 28, 2012, 4:37 PM
Post #38 of 55
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Raiders99999 wrote: Ok, I'll take a shot. I think that Laser rangefinders are missing from rock climbing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_rangefinder Have you ever stood at the base of a route looking up while wondering exactly how far away certain points of the climb were? If you had a Laser rangefinder, you could just point it at the anchors at the top of the pitch and it would shoot you back an accurate distance. Now, you don't have to entertain the question of "Is my rope long enough for this pitch?" or "Will I be able to lower off safely from there?" Another use of this could be measuring possible falling potential between bolts. For example, you could measure the distance between the first and second bolts to determine if you would have the possibility of decking if you blew the 2nd clip. I just think having these bits of info BEFORE you climb a route would better prepare you for some possible dangers you could come across while on the wall. They already exist. http://lmgtfy.com/...ange+finder+for+sale Apparently some golfers and other extreme sports enthusiasts find them indispensable. If you are that concerned about "some possible dangers you could come across while on the wall" and you're seriously suggesting a range finder to substitute for a brain to assess fall potential between bolts on a fucking sport route, maybe outdoor climbing isn't for you.
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shockabuku
May 28, 2012, 4:52 PM
Post #39 of 55
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Raiders99999 wrote: Have you ever stood at the base of a route looking up while wondering exactly how far away certain points of the climb were? No. And if I stopped to worry about all of that other shit you mentioned I'd never get off the ground.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
May 28, 2012, 7:30 PM
Post #40 of 55
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Remote Car Alarm Notification - I know they exist and that I'm just too cheap to buy one, but really I'm almost more nervous about leaving my car than I am about climbing.
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Guran
May 30, 2012, 7:04 AM
Post #41 of 55
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Ok, I'll bite... Here's an idea. No I would not use it. I probably would not buy it (at least not admit to having bought it), but the geeky grear-wanker in me would stop and think "hey, cool!" Imagine a small device that you could attach to a pulley, ATC or biner, that you feed your rope through. The device measures the lenght of rope pulled through it and can be set to alert at half length, 10m left, 3m left etc. No more guesstimating the length of rope left in your neat coils or chaotic heap, happy joy joy. But now for bonus geekery points, the device also has a wireless communication with a similar device carried by the leader, so that even the leader knows exactly how much rope there is left. No more "Oi, Chris how much rope?" "Dunno.. twenty feet" "What?" "TWENTY!" followoed by "SLACK!!!" "YO'RE OUT OF ROPE!" "SLACK DAMNIT!" "No can do, waitaminute, just DON'T FALL RIGHT NOW!" echoing all over the crag. Ok, remember where you heard about it first :)
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olderic
May 30, 2012, 2:09 PM
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Guran wrote: Ok, I'll bite... Here's an idea. No I would not use it. I probably would not buy it (at least not admit to having bought it), but the geeky grear-wanker in me would stop and think "hey, cool!" Imagine a small device that you could attach to a pulley, ATC or biner, that you feed your rope through. The device measures the lenght of rope pulled through it and can be set to alert at half length, 10m left, 3m left etc. No more guesstimating the length of rope left in your neat coils or chaotic heap, happy joy joy. But now for bonus geekery points, the device also has a wireless communication with a similar device carried by the leader, so that even the leader knows exactly how much rope there is left. No more "Oi, Chris how much rope?" "Dunno.. twenty feet" "What?" "TWENTY!" followoed by "SLACK!!!" "YO'RE OUT OF ROPE!" "SLACK DAMNIT!" "No can do, waitaminute, just DON'T FALL RIGHT NOW!" echoing all over the crag. Ok, remember where you heard about it first :) And how does your device know how long your rope is in the first place - especially after you have chopped off a damaged 10' end, and/or swapped ropes with the group next store. You could run the entire rope through the device each time before you do a pitch. In fact you could spend all day booting up. charging, recalibrating and synching your gadgets and never touch rock it all. Electronics will have saved another life.
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danabart
May 30, 2012, 2:27 PM
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How about personal computers? We could each have one at home. Imagine the fantastic, information-packed discussions that would happen!
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Guran
May 31, 2012, 7:17 AM
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olderic wrote: And how does your device know how long your rope is in the first place - especially after you have chopped off a damaged 10' end, and/or swapped ropes with the group next store. You could run the entire rope through the device each time before you do a pitch. In fact you could spend all day booting up. charging, recalibrating and synching your gadgets and never touch rock it all. Electronics will have saved another life. Well duh, I wasn't describing a device I would actually use, I was trying to imaginine something that someone just might be able to sell. After all, the do sell this thing.
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Traches
Jun 8, 2012, 9:31 AM
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How about a little gadget with an accelerometer and a screen that you leave in your pocket- then when you take a whipper it automatically records how far you fell, peak downwards and sideways G-force, and estimates the fall factor (from G-forces) edit-- spelling is hard
(This post was edited by Traches on Jun 8, 2012, 9:32 AM)
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drector
Jun 8, 2012, 5:03 PM
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USnavy wrote: ipoloton wrote: Hey Guys, Has it ever occurred to you? You just had a long fall on your rope and damaged its shield a little bit. You are not sure if the rope is still safe to be used for another ascent, and you said what if there was a device right here with me so I could check if my rope is fine. No that has never occurred to me because I dont need to have a phone tell me if my rope is safe, I have a brain to do that. Also, its the sheath, not the shield. Just a nit but he said "device", not "app". In response to the original question; the device that is sometimes missing is brains. Well, it's really a combination of eyes and brains and maybe fingers, eyes, and brains. Unless you need to carbon date your rope, you can probably learn how to recognize detectable damage using those things. They will work 99.9999% of the time. Dave
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JimTitt
Jun 8, 2012, 5:11 PM
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Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot.
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JimTitt
Jun 8, 2012, 10:06 PM
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shockabuku wrote: JimTitt wrote: Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot. And here I thought fall factors were supposed to be a gauge of impact forces and not fall length. Only in a simplistic world!
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shockabuku
Jun 9, 2012, 2:00 AM
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JimTitt wrote: shockabuku wrote: JimTitt wrote: Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot. And here I thought fall factors were supposed to be a gauge of impact forces and not fall length. Only in a simplistic world! Well isn't that the whole point of fall factor? Simplicity? Isn't it just an ideal value anyway? I mean it doesn't account for any friction or other issues that vary from case to case.
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