Forums: Climbing Information: General:
What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


cobbledik


May 23, 2012, 6:46 PM
Post #26 of 55 (5985 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 21, 2006
Posts: 42

Re: [ipoloton] [USnavy] [JAB] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ipoloton wrote:
So, tell me what you think!

why?


ipoloton


May 24, 2012, 12:41 AM
Post #27 of 55 (5950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 16

Re:What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

All right,

This was fun. To know how you guys think was pretty cool. I guess I was not quite clear about my intention after all. What my concern was from the first point is safety. And it was really interesting that many of you rejected the idea of having another safety measure only because of safety.

Let's take it from here. We spend a lot of money on our gear for our safety and ease of climb. We, say, upgrade our grigris to grigri 2 in order to make sure we have a better gear (not all of us actually do that, but i think we all agree that the mentality is there and so many climbers follow that). but it turns out that it's a failure and it could kill us. At the same time we resist another side of the technology to help us to stay safe. why is that? again, we are not talking about iphone apps. we are talking about a device in your backpack that can help us when need it. and of course we all have our share of brain. otherwise why would we become rock climbers? ;)


Tjin


May 24, 2012, 7:20 AM
Post #28 of 55 (5918 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2010
Posts: 27

Re: [ipoloton] Re:What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ipoloton wrote:
All right,

This was fun. To know how you guys think was pretty cool. I guess I was not quite clear about my intention after all. What my concern was from the first point is safety. And it was really interesting that many of you rejected the idea of having another safety measure only because of safety.

Let's take it from here. We spend a lot of money on our gear for our safety and ease of climb. We, say, upgrade our grigris to grigri 2 in order to make sure we have a better gear (not all of us actually do that, but i think we all agree that the mentality is there and so many climbers follow that). but it turns out that it's a failure and it could kill us. At the same time we resist another side of the technology to help us to stay safe. why is that? again, we are not talking about iphone apps. we are talking about a device in your backpack that can help us when need it. and of course we all have our share of brain. otherwise why would we become rock climbers? ;)

You got things wrong. People don't buy grigri's 2 because it is much safer. They buy it because it's new and fancy. Like any consumer product new on the market.

As for electronics i can't think of anything i would need that does not exsist yet. All i would carry is already availible:
- Headlights, plenty on the market.
- Phone/SATphone/PLB/SPOT to call for help.
- GPS to backup mine compass and map.
- Photo/videocamera.

As for the rest, electronics are not as reliable because they need batteries and everything else is done by skill and experience.


JimTitt


May 24, 2012, 1:57 PM
Post #29 of 55 (5894 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002

Re: [ipoloton] Re:What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The three things that would make a huge improvement to climber safety are a)not falling off, b)infallibly tying knots, c) stopping rockfall.
Itīs vaguely conceivable that sometime in the distant future somebody might be able to come up with a reliable, foolproof, robust and affordable solution to b) but I doubt Iīll live long enough to see it (and wouldnīt buy it if it did exist).

Electronics cannot do anything for the other issues and it is hard to see where electronics could realistically help improve climbing safety in any way whatsoever.


Marylandclimber


May 26, 2012, 1:35 PM
Post #30 of 55 (5835 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 3, 2011
Posts: 224

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Although some of these ideas sound good, imagine if it was really like that? Rock climbing would never be the same and would take a large part of the creativity such as placing gear. I like having a little fear in climbing to get an an awsome rush too. Some things like checking the angle measures of your anchor to know its safe sounds like it would save lifes, but lets not get to caught up in trying to use electricty in climbing.


dynosore


May 26, 2012, 3:14 PM
Post #31 of 55 (5818 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [ipoloton] Re:What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've spent the last week wandering western Colorado and eastern Utah. Other than having a general idea of where I was at, I just climbed something when it caught my eye. I ate when I was hungry, slept when I was tired, and fished or offroaded when I got my fill of climbing for the day. No app, no electronic devices to tell me if the next hold was a crimp or a sloped. No gps. I got lost high in the San Juans and almost ran out of gas. It's the most fun I've had in a while. Next week I get to go back to my corporate cattle pen and stare at a glowing box. No need for that when I'm trying to unwind.


dan2see


May 26, 2012, 4:37 PM
Post #32 of 55 (5807 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

We already have blood meters for diabetics to measure the sugar level in their blood, and clip-ons to measure oxygen saturation, too.

We need a gadget to measure hydration level. A lot of folks don't know when they are getting thirsty.

I'm always seeing folks skip their drinking because they're too busy or focused. Even the pros.

I tend to over-compensate. That's not a problem, but in fact I don't know when I'm drinking more or less than I need, or if I'm simply mis-managing my resources and time.

Also it might be useful to have an electrolyte meter. This simply confuses me.


Gmburns2000


May 26, 2012, 4:41 PM
Post #33 of 55 (5804 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266

Re: [dan2see] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dan2see wrote:
We already have blood meters for diabetics to measure the sugar level in their blood, and clip-ons to measure oxygen saturation, too.

We need a gadget to measure hydration level. A lot of folks don't know when they are getting thirsty.

I'm always seeing folks skip their drinking because they're too busy or focused. Even the pros.

I tend to over-compensate. That's not a problem, but in fact I don't know when I'm drinking more or less than I need, or if I'm simply mis-managing my resources and time.

Also it might be useful to have an electrolyte meter. This simply confuses me.

This is a good idea.


dan2see


May 26, 2012, 5:15 PM
Post #34 of 55 (5796 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497

Re: [Gmburns2000] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I could add that I have a Heart Rate Monitor.

On a strenuous hike, I already know more-or-less how hard I'm working, and how much I'm sweating. But the HRM adds an objective measure of exactly how much work my body is putting out, and where.

I've worn it only a couple of times, and frankly that's enough. I now understand much better how to manage myself on those long steep approaches.

(Edit to add to my "additional" post)
Although I don't see how a HRM would tell me much about actual rock-climbing. I think sport climbing is anaerobic.


(This post was edited by dan2see on May 26, 2012, 10:52 PM)


special_blend


May 28, 2012, 4:30 AM
Post #35 of 55 (5730 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 25, 2011
Posts: 41

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The other day I saw a climber with a solar panel hooked up to a small battery, hooked up to a nema 5-15 adapter which was powering a blender, to make margaritas at their camp site. Climbers need more of these setups.


Raiders99999


May 28, 2012, 5:31 AM
Post #36 of 55 (5721 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 20, 2008
Posts: 2

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok, I'll take a shot. I think that Laser rangefinders are missing from rock climbing.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_rangefinder

Have you ever stood at the base of a route looking up while wondering exactly how far away certain points of the climb were?

If you had a Laser rangefinder, you could just point it at the anchors at the top of the pitch and it would shoot you back an accurate distance. Now, you don't have to entertain the question of "Is my rope long enough for this pitch?" or "Will I be able to lower off safely from there?"

Another use of this could be measuring possible falling potential between bolts. For example, you could measure the distance between the first and second bolts to determine if you would have the possibility of decking if you blew the 2nd clip.

I just think having these bits of info BEFORE you climb a route would better prepare you for some possible dangers you could come across while on the wall.


tradmanclimbs


May 28, 2012, 10:15 AM
Post #37 of 55 (5702 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599

Re: [Raiders99999] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am gonna have to go with a Tazer to zap all you winnies who need a fucking app to go climbingWink


marc801


May 28, 2012, 4:37 PM
Post #38 of 55 (5679 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [Raiders99999] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Raiders99999 wrote:
Ok, I'll take a shot. I think that Laser rangefinders are missing from rock climbing.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_rangefinder

Have you ever stood at the base of a route looking up while wondering exactly how far away certain points of the climb were?

If you had a Laser rangefinder, you could just point it at the anchors at the top of the pitch and it would shoot you back an accurate distance. Now, you don't have to entertain the question of "Is my rope long enough for this pitch?" or "Will I be able to lower off safely from there?"

Another use of this could be measuring possible falling potential between bolts. For example, you could measure the distance between the first and second bolts to determine if you would have the possibility of decking if you blew the 2nd clip.

I just think having these bits of info BEFORE you climb a route would better prepare you for some possible dangers you could come across while on the wall.
They already exist.
http://lmgtfy.com/...ange+finder+for+sale

Apparently some golfers and other extreme sports enthusiasts find them indispensable.

If you are that concerned about "some possible dangers you could come across while on the wall" and you're seriously suggesting a range finder to substitute for a brain to assess fall potential between bolts on a fucking sport route, maybe outdoor climbing isn't for you.


shockabuku


May 28, 2012, 4:52 PM
Post #39 of 55 (5678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [Raiders99999] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Raiders99999 wrote:
Have you ever stood at the base of a route looking up while wondering exactly how far away certain points of the climb were?

No.

And if I stopped to worry about all of that other shit you mentioned I'd never get off the ground.


Toast_in_the_Machine


May 28, 2012, 7:30 PM
Post #40 of 55 (5654 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 5208

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Remote Car Alarm Notification - I know they exist and that I'm just too cheap to buy one, but really I'm almost more nervous about leaving my car than I am about climbing.


Guran


May 30, 2012, 7:04 AM
Post #41 of 55 (5592 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok, I'll bite...

Here's an idea. No I would not use it. I probably would not buy it (at least not admit to having bought it), but the geeky grear-wanker in me would stop and think "hey, cool!"

Imagine a small device that you could attach to a pulley, ATC or biner, that you feed your rope through. The device measures the lenght of rope pulled through it and can be set to alert at half length, 10m left, 3m left etc.
No more guesstimating the length of rope left in your neat coils or chaotic heap, happy joy joy.

But now for bonus geekery points, the device also has a wireless communication with a similar device carried by the leader, so that even the leader knows exactly how much rope there is left.
No more "Oi, Chris how much rope?" "Dunno.. twenty feet" "What?" "TWENTY!" followoed by "SLACK!!!" "YO'RE OUT OF ROPE!" "SLACK DAMNIT!" "No can do, waitaminute, just DON'T FALL RIGHT NOW!" echoing all over the crag.


Ok, remember where you heard about it first :)


olderic


May 30, 2012, 2:09 PM
Post #42 of 55 (5562 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539

Re: [Guran] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Guran wrote:
Ok, I'll bite...

Here's an idea. No I would not use it. I probably would not buy it (at least not admit to having bought it), but the geeky grear-wanker in me would stop and think "hey, cool!"

Imagine a small device that you could attach to a pulley, ATC or biner, that you feed your rope through. The device measures the lenght of rope pulled through it and can be set to alert at half length, 10m left, 3m left etc.
No more guesstimating the length of rope left in your neat coils or chaotic heap, happy joy joy.

But now for bonus geekery points, the device also has a wireless communication with a similar device carried by the leader, so that even the leader knows exactly how much rope there is left.
No more "Oi, Chris how much rope?" "Dunno.. twenty feet" "What?" "TWENTY!" followoed by "SLACK!!!" "YO'RE OUT OF ROPE!" "SLACK DAMNIT!" "No can do, waitaminute, just DON'T FALL RIGHT NOW!" echoing all over the crag.


Ok, remember where you heard about it first :)

And how does your device know how long your rope is in the first place - especially after you have chopped off a damaged 10' end, and/or swapped ropes with the group next store.

You could run the entire rope through the device each time before you do a pitch. In fact you could spend all day booting up. charging, recalibrating and synching your gadgets and never touch rock it all. Electronics will have saved another life.


danabart


May 30, 2012, 2:27 PM
Post #43 of 55 (5553 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 24, 2004
Posts: 159

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How about personal computers? We could each have one at home. Imagine the fantastic, information-packed discussions that would happen!


Guran


May 31, 2012, 7:17 AM
Post #44 of 55 (5493 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220

Re: [olderic] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
And how does your device know how long your rope is in the first place - especially after you have chopped off a damaged 10' end, and/or swapped ropes with the group next store.

You could run the entire rope through the device each time before you do a pitch. In fact you could spend all day booting up. charging, recalibrating and synching your gadgets and never touch rock it all. Electronics will have saved another life.

Well duh, I wasn't describing a device I would actually use, I was trying to imaginine something that someone just might be able to sell.

After all, the do sell this thing.


Traches


Jun 8, 2012, 9:31 AM
Post #45 of 55 (5296 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 26, 2012
Posts: 83

Re: [ipoloton] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How about a little gadget with an accelerometer and a screen that you leave in your pocket- then when you take a whipper it automatically records how far you fell, peak downwards and sideways G-force, and estimates the fall factor (from G-forces)

edit-- spelling is hard


(This post was edited by Traches on Jun 8, 2012, 9:32 AM)


Partner drector


Jun 8, 2012, 5:03 PM
Post #46 of 55 (5264 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 1037

Re: [USnavy] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

USnavy wrote:
ipoloton wrote:
Hey Guys,

Has it ever occurred to you? You just had a long fall on your rope and damaged its shield a little bit. You are not sure if the rope is still safe to be used for another ascent, and you said what if there was a device right here with me so I could check if my rope is fine.
No that has never occurred to me because I dont need to have a phone tell me if my rope is safe, I have a brain to do that. Also, its the sheath, not the shield.

Just a nit but he said "device", not "app".

In response to the original question; the device that is sometimes missing is brains. Well, it's really a combination of eyes and brains and maybe fingers, eyes, and brains. Unless you need to carbon date your rope, you can probably learn how to recognize detectable damage using those things. They will work 99.9999% of the time.

Dave


JimTitt


Jun 8, 2012, 5:11 PM
Post #47 of 55 (5263 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002

Re: [Traches] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot.


shockabuku


Jun 8, 2012, 7:22 PM
Post #48 of 55 (5247 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [JimTitt] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JimTitt wrote:
Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot.

And here I thought fall factors were supposed to be a gauge of impact forces and not fall length.Unimpressed


JimTitt


Jun 8, 2012, 10:06 PM
Post #49 of 55 (5227 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002

Re: [shockabuku] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot.

And here I thought fall factors were supposed to be a gauge of impact forces and not fall length.Unimpressed

Only in a simplistic world!


shockabuku


Jun 9, 2012, 2:00 AM
Post #50 of 55 (5199 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [JimTitt] What electronic device do you think is missing in the rock climbing community? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JimTitt wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Aready available. We use a small 3-axis acceleration data logger ( about half the size of a cigarette lighter) from a Swiss company called MSI for development work. You download the data onto a PC later but obviously it canīt work out the fall factor because it canīt measure the rope lengths, you can see how far the fall was though from the time plot.

And here I thought fall factors were supposed to be a gauge of impact forces and not fall length.Unimpressed

Only in a simplistic world!

Well isn't that the whole point of fall factor? Simplicity? Isn't it just an ideal value anyway? I mean it doesn't account for any friction or other issues that vary from case to case.

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook