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FFSchooley
Aug 25, 2012, 5:22 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2012
Posts: 17
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I have done quite a bit of research on this forum about preventing finger injury, but I would like the opinion of the resident medical professionals (aka all of you) on my specific situation.
After a 15 year break from climbing, I have got back into it now that I am in my mid 30's. I have been back at it hard for the last few months and I still have much of my skill (back climbing in the 5.11/12's already), but unfortunately my now older body cant quite keep up. I have been trying to climb 2-3 days a week but am starting to experience finger joint soreness. I noticed it after climbing some hard, crimpy routes a few weeks ago and was not surprised that I would be sore. I never felt pain while climbing, just sore like i got a good workout it. After doing some reading, I rested for a week and then spent the last 2 weeks doing some easy climbing on routes with nice big holds.
With the soreness gone, I went climbing yesterday and got on some harder routes with some smaller holds. I felt great, no pain while climbing, but now am experience the soreness again.
This soreness is only noticed when a joint fully extended with pressure on my fingers or if I put pressure on my fingers in a crimping type motion. If I have my hands in a tight fist for a bit I also notice it. Seems to be widespread on both hands with no specific joint being the worst. It reminds me of post workout muscle soreness, but in a joint.
So now to my question and your opinions. I don't want to get into the pattern of having to rest a week or weeks after each climbing session. I am shooting for 2-3 days a week. Should I be worried about this soreness or can I continue to climb unless I feel pain? I am sure some of you will say just climb easy routes, which I guess is on option, but would really like to keep pushing onto the harder stuff. Am I just jumping into this too quick? Its hard for me to try and take my return to climbing slow but will defiantly be willing to step it down a bit if I am on my way to an injury. Your thoughts?
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macblaze
Aug 25, 2012, 7:50 PM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
Posts: 807
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Crap, I wish I had an 'older body' that was in its mid-30s!
Not that I know anything about it, but it sounds like you are pushing pretty hard. Fingers take a long time to build strength...
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csiebsen
Aug 27, 2012, 1:56 PM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2012
Posts: 53
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"Patience is a bitter plant with sweet fruit"
Some smart guy said that.
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dynosnore
Sep 11, 2012, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Jul 17, 2012
Posts: 18
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It's always best to take it slow. If you've jumped back into 5.11/12 your fingers are gonna be under a lot of stress they are not used to.
I know it sucks to hold back and rest, but it would suck even more to get a serious injury because you pushed your fingers too hard.
Your hands should strengthen up in a few months and hopefully you won't be held back by them for long.
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