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Libbster


Oct 19, 2012, 8:36 AM
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Multi Pitch
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There was an ad at my local rock gym for a multi pitch class. How in the world would you multi pitch on 40 foot walls?


csproul


Oct 19, 2012, 8:42 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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Libbster wrote:
There was an ad at my local rock gym for a multi pitch class. How in the world would you multi pitch on 40 foot walls?
Really, really short pitches.

The real answer is that a) they are going someplace other than the gym or b) they are simulating the skills used in multi-pitch climbing in a much smaller setting. You could easily teach most of the skills needed for multi-pitch climbing in the controlled setting of a gym and then transfer those skills to the outside-real-world.


potreroed


Oct 19, 2012, 8:44 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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Obviously you can't climb a real multi-pitch on a 40 foot wall but you can teach someone basics. In fact you can teach a lot of basic stuff without leaving the ground at all.
That being said, there's nothing like really getting outdoors and actually doing it.


dagibbs


Oct 19, 2012, 8:48 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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For teaching the techniques and methods involved, you don't need any particular height. Obviously, you don't NEED to multi-pitch 40' walls, but you clearly can. You just need a part-way anchor.


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2012, 9:05 AM
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Re: [csproul] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
Libbster wrote:
There was an ad at my local rock gym for a multi pitch class. How in the world would you multi pitch on 40 foot walls?
Really, really short pitches.

The real answer is that a) they are going someplace other than the gym or b) they are simulating the skills used in multi-pitch climbing in a much smaller setting. You could easily teach most of the skills needed for multi-pitch climbing in the controlled setting of a gym and then transfer those skills to the outside-real-world.

I'm going to guess option "a" because it's difficult to teach anchor building in a gym (considering most multi-pitch requires gear in north america).


marc801


Oct 19, 2012, 10:38 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
I'm going to guess option "a" because it's difficult to teach anchor building in a gym (considering most multi-pitch requires gear in north america).
Yet there are an awful lot of multi-pitch climbs that don't require gear for anchors. If a gym is offering the class, the "b" option is far more likely - all you need are a pair of bolts at the 20' level (and maybe a pair at the 6' level for the initial teaching of absolute beginners - plus those can serve double duty for teaching how to rig a sport pitch for lowering or rap).


wivanoff


Oct 19, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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Six speculation replies on rc.com and all you have to do is ask at your gym... LOL


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Re: [marc801] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
I'm going to guess option "a" because it's difficult to teach anchor building in a gym (considering most multi-pitch requires gear in north america).
Yet there are an awful lot of multi-pitch climbs that don't require gear for anchors. If a gym is offering the class, the "b" option is far more likely - all you need are a pair of bolts at the 20' level (and maybe a pair at the 6' level for the initial teaching of absolute beginners - plus those can serve double duty for teaching how to rig a sport pitch for lowering or rap).

I guess what I was saying was that it seems odd that there'd be a multi-pitch class that didn't involve anchor building without bolts. Maybe it's just my experience, but it seems to me that building a gear anchor should make up a pretty large part of a multi-pitch class in North America. Maybe the OP is French.


bearbreeder


Oct 19, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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tons of sport multi in the rockies and other places ....


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2012, 11:22 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
tons of sport multi in the rockies and other places ....

ok. and there you have it.


marc801


Oct 19, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
I guess what I was saying was that it seems odd that there'd be a multi-pitch class that didn't involve anchor building without bolts. Maybe it's just my experience, but it seems to me that building a gear anchor should make up a pretty large part of a multi-pitch class in North America. Maybe the OP is French.
Look at some of the questions and discussions that come up on this site - just the management and what to do on multi-pitch confuses many, regardless of the anchor. I once encountered a party in the Gunks who thought it appropriate to untie since "we're on a big ledge". Even if just a pair of bolts, there are better and worse ways to rig them as a multi-pitch anchor, and in Utah alone I can easily think of over 3 dozen multi-pitch routes where all the anchors are bolts. There are also places like Whitehorse Ledge, Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and of course El Portrero. Although closely associated with multi-pitch, anchor building with gear is a separate skill set.


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Re: [marc801] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
I guess what I was saying was that it seems odd that there'd be a multi-pitch class that didn't involve anchor building without bolts. Maybe it's just my experience, but it seems to me that building a gear anchor should make up a pretty large part of a multi-pitch class in North America. Maybe the OP is French.
Look at some of the questions and discussions that come up on this site - just the management and what to do on multi-pitch confuses many, regardless of the anchor. I once encountered a party in the Gunks who thought it appropriate to untie since "we're on a big ledge". Even if just a pair of bolts, there are better and worse ways to rig them as a multi-pitch anchor, and in Utah alone I can easily think of over 3 dozen multi-pitch routes where all the anchors are bolts. There are also places like Whitehorse Ledge, Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and of course El Portrero. Although closely associated with multi-pitch, anchor building with gear is a separate skill set.


yeah, ok. i stand corrected. i guess i was just using my own narrow experience. i've climbed plenty of multi-pitch routes with only bolted anchors, but i've always considered multi-pitch to be something where i should be prepared for there to be no anchors there.


marc801


Oct 19, 2012, 12:21 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
yeah, ok. i stand corrected. i guess i was just using my own narrow experience.
This is somehow new? Wink


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Re: [marc801] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
yeah, ok. i stand corrected. i guess i was just using my own narrow experience.
This is somehow new? Wink

HAHA!

wait. Mad


moose_droppings


Oct 19, 2012, 4:27 PM
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Re: [csproul] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
Libbster wrote:
There was an ad at my local rock gym for a multi pitch class. How in the world would you multi pitch on 40 foot walls?
Really, really short pitches.

The real answer is that a) they are going someplace other than the gym or b) they are simulating the skills used in multi-pitch climbing in a much smaller setting. You could easily teach most of the skills needed for multi-pitch climbing in the controlled setting of a gym and then transfer those skills to the outside-real-world.

C) they're using a 20ft rope on a 40ft wall.


special_blend


Oct 22, 2012, 9:22 PM
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Re: [Libbster] Multi Pitch [In reply to]
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You probably won't be doing any climbing. It will most likely just be a systems course. You'll be on the ground learning techniques in constructing belay stations, how to break them down. How to manage the rope as a belay, how to rap on multipitch and some basic self rescue techniques like how to escape a Reverso.


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