Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!!
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


Michael.B


Oct 24, 2012, 10:45 PM
Post #1 of 27 (13914 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 24, 2012
Posts: 4

Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!!
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello, I have a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) arborist rope, mainly for tree climbing, and i am having trouble finding an ATC belay device that fits the rope. Most of the ATC belay devices only fit up to 11mm. I do not want a figure 8 belay device because i heard they are very old and don't hold as much friction, they are also hard to maneuver. I am mainly bottom belaying, i own a ropes course in Pennsylvania and i belay my students. Please help me, i don't want a expensive device, just an ATC that will fit, please help.


shimanilami


Oct 24, 2012, 11:04 PM
Post #2 of 27 (13900 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Try this.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...lay_Device_1054.html


marc801


Oct 24, 2012, 11:14 PM
Post #3 of 27 (13894 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
Hello, I have a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) arborist rope, mainly for tree climbing, and i am having trouble finding an ATC belay device that fits the rope. Most of the ATC belay devices only fit up to 11mm. I do not want a figure 8 belay device because i heard they are very old and don't hold as much friction, they are also hard to maneuver. I am mainly bottom belaying, i own a ropes course in Pennsylvania and i belay my students. Please help me, i don't want a expensive device, just an ATC that will fit, please help.
Alternatively, buy a real rope.


ObviousTroll


Oct 24, 2012, 11:49 PM
Post #4 of 27 (13874 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 29, 2012
Posts: 90

Re: [marc801] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

marc801 wrote:
Alternatively, buy a real rope.

+1


Michael.B


Oct 25, 2012, 1:46 AM
Post #5 of 27 (13832 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 24, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [ObviousTroll] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Is there any other options, also is a figure 8 belay device any good?


scottek67


Oct 25, 2012, 2:01 AM
Post #6 of 27 (13823 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

here's the new and improved 8

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._Descender_2434.html


acorneau


Oct 25, 2012, 2:07 AM
Post #7 of 27 (13821 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
Hello, I have a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) arborist rope, ... I am mainly bottom belaying, i own a ropes course in Pennsylvania and i belay my students.

As others have said, you should be using a more appropriate rope. Once you do that then you should have no problem finding a belay device to match your rope.

That being said, if you insist on using a 1/2 rope then a figure-8 device may be the way to go. Yes, they are an old design and have been surpassed in holding power by other designs, but with a 1/2 static rope they should be just fine (assuming it's used properly).


(This post was edited by acorneau on Oct 25, 2012, 2:08 AM)


sharensmith


Oct 25, 2012, 4:50 AM
Post #8 of 27 (13768 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You might as well use 8 or 12 belay device.


jolery


Oct 25, 2012, 1:08 PM
Post #9 of 27 (13688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2008
Posts: 173

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
Hello, I have a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) arborist rope, mainly for tree climbing, and i am having trouble finding an ATC belay device that fits the rope. Most of the ATC belay devices only fit up to 11mm. I do not want a figure 8 belay device because i heard they are very old and don't hold as much friction, they are also hard to maneuver. I am mainly bottom belaying, i own a ropes course in Pennsylvania and i belay my students. Please help me, i don't want a expensive device, just an ATC that will fit, please help.

If budget is a concern, get an 8. They are fine, they just will twist the hell out of your rope. Otherwise, like others have said, get a real rope. Your 1/2" rope is beyond overkill. I know, my first rope was bought by my family, who figured bigger is better - I ended up with a 5/8" static line.


wonderwoman


Oct 25, 2012, 1:47 PM
Post #10 of 27 (13667 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275

Re: [jolery] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jolery wrote:
I know, my first rope was bought by my family, who figured bigger is better - I ended up with a 5/8" static line.

Isn't it funny how that works? My mom bought us a 4.5 cam as a wedding gift. I have used it, but the thing is a beast.


blueeyedclimber


Oct 25, 2012, 1:57 PM
Post #11 of 27 (13658 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
Hello, I have a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) arborist rope, mainly for tree climbing, and i am having trouble finding an ATC belay device that fits the rope. Most of the ATC belay devices only fit up to 11mm. I do not want a figure 8 belay device because i heard they are very old and don't hold as much friction, they are also hard to maneuver. I am mainly bottom belaying, i own a ropes course in Pennsylvania and i belay my students. Please help me, i don't want a expensive device, just an ATC that will fit, please help.

Your hip will fit any diameter rope. Cool

Josh


mojomonkey


Oct 25, 2012, 1:58 PM
Post #12 of 27 (13657 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
Hello, I have a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) arborist rope, mainly for tree climbing, and i am having trouble finding an ATC belay device that fits the rope. Most of the ATC belay devices only fit up to 11mm. I do not want a figure 8 belay device because i heard they are very old and don't hold as much friction, they are also hard to maneuver. I am mainly bottom belaying, i own a ropes course in Pennsylvania and i belay my students. Please help me, i don't want a expensive device, just an ATC that will fit, please help.

Yikes. You own a ropes course and are entrusted with students, but are trying to get by with a rope you just happened to have and the cheapest device that may work? I hope this is just you screwing around on your property with some buddies and not a professional or commercial endeavor. You should probably consult someone in person who knows what they are doing and have them review your setup before someone gets hurt and you get sued.


marc801


Oct 25, 2012, 2:54 PM
Post #13 of 27 (13623 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
Your hip will fit any diameter rope. Cool
Yeah, there's always that! Newer climbers sometimes forget that people were climbing and belaying for many decades before there were any kind of belay devices.


kikitastrophe


Oct 25, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #14 of 27 (13567 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2009
Posts: 25

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

And don't forget the humble munter hitch belay! Additional advantages of this method include wear on that rope of yours so you can buy a new one.


billcoe_


Oct 25, 2012, 5:44 PM
Post #15 of 27 (13534 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: [kikitastrophe] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kikitastrophe wrote:
And don't forget the humble munter hitch belay! Additional advantages of this method include wear on that rope of yours so you can buy a new one.

X2, it will work great- but wear is minimal, as extensive European usage reflects.


Michael.B


Oct 25, 2012, 10:37 PM
Post #16 of 27 (13479 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 24, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [billcoe_] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am only bottom belaying, is a Figure 8 belay device good for this? If so which one is the best and holds the most friction? I heard Figure 8 belay devices were mainly used for emergency rappelling, i much rather have an ATC or a Sticht plate that could fit a 1/2 inch diameter rope. Please help!!!!


acorneau


Oct 26, 2012, 1:12 AM
Post #17 of 27 (13451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
I am only bottom belaying, is a Figure 8 belay device good for this? If so which one is the best and holds the most friction? I heard Figure 8 belay devices were mainly used for emergency rappelling, i much rather have an ATC or a Sticht plate that could fit a 1/2 inch diameter rope. Please help!!!!

For your rope, yes a figure-8 device will be fine.

Figure 8's are used for rappelling on a regular basis by "sport rappellers" and not as an emergency rap device. That's bad info.

Again: there is no known ATC-style device that will accommodate that size rope.


(This post was edited by acorneau on Oct 26, 2012, 1:13 AM)


skellie


Oct 26, 2012, 2:41 AM
Post #18 of 27 (13432 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2008
Posts: 54

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

Get professional instruction before peoples' lives are put in danger. That's the best advice you can get here.


smallclimber


Oct 26, 2012, 2:46 AM
Post #19 of 27 (13431 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 301

Re: [wonderwoman] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wonderwoman wrote:
[quo

Isn't it funny how that works? My mom bought us a 4.5 cam as a wedding gift. I have used it, but the thing is a beast.


Though even if it isn't your favorite cam you have to give your mother credit for trying. I mean most people get matching towel sets for their wedding presents!


marc801


Oct 26, 2012, 5:27 AM
Post #20 of 27 (13413 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
I am only bottom belaying, is a Figure 8 belay device good for this? If so which one is the best and holds the most friction? I heard Figure 8 belay devices were mainly used for emergency rappelling, i much rather have an ATC or a Sticht plate that could fit a 1/2 inch diameter rope. Please help!!!!
AS I and others have said earlier: you don't need a new belay device, you need a new rope. Or you learn how to hip belay. Or use a Munter Hitch.


billcoe_


Oct 27, 2012, 4:08 AM
Post #21 of 27 (13315 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
I am only bottom belaying, is a Figure 8 belay device good for this? If so which one is the best and holds the most friction? I heard Figure 8 belay devices were mainly used for emergency rappelling, i much rather have an ATC or a Sticht plate that could fit a 1/2 inch diameter rope. Please help!!!!

I'm changing my opinion and earlier post to "get professional help". Why die needlessly? Good luck.


Michael.B


Oct 28, 2012, 4:32 PM
Post #22 of 27 (13209 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 24, 2012
Posts: 4

Re: [billcoe_] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Will the Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Device fit my 1/2 inch rope


marc801


Oct 28, 2012, 5:13 PM
Post #23 of 27 (13198 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Michael.B wrote:
Will the Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Device fit my 1/2 inch rope
From the BD site: "Works well with double 8.1 mm ropes up to 11 mm single lines"

11mm = 0.43"

Stop being aggressively ignorant. You're not getting the answer you want, so you keep asking the same question.


skiclimb


Oct 28, 2012, 10:26 PM
Post #24 of 27 (13157 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

There is only ONE standardly available cheap belay device that will work with a 1/2 inch static rope. I've used old type Gri-Gri and it can do it but is not recommended and square Tuber's can also if they still are made.. but basically

A figure 8.... PERIOD dosn't matter much what manufacturer really

I am worried that you seem to be instructing others

This is super basic knowledge and you are asking anonymous internet jackasses for advice?

A static line for climbing? A broke ass newbie doing topropes would make some sense.. no problem if that is the case, it will work fine for top-roping but nothing further till you are ready for BIGWALL climbing and even then it's fucking heavyass overkill and a good bigwall climber would want a lighter haul line...But hell we all gotta start somewhere.

But basically you are trying to use the WAY WRONG ROPE for climbing.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Oct 28, 2012, 10:35 PM)


bearbreeder


Oct 29, 2012, 6:33 AM
Post #25 of 27 (13099 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [Michael.B] Belay Device, TOO SMALL!!! [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

you should not be taking people out or instructing if you dont know the answer to those questions

their lives depend on your knowledge and experience

its that simple Crazy

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook