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Finding the route
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lyczek


Nov 7, 2012, 6:36 AM
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Finding the route
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Hi,

I was recently training on a new indoor climbing wall in Berlin. It's a huge wall which is completely new to me.

I spend a lot of time asking local climbers to get to now the routes. How do you deal with this? The same thing goes for the outdoor, I always spend so much time to correctly read the topo. Do you have any tips how to deal with it?


kennoyce


Nov 7, 2012, 7:54 AM
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Re: [lyczek] Finding the route [In reply to]
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lyczek wrote:
Hi,

I was recently training on a new indoor climbing wall in Berlin. It's a huge wall which is completely new to me.

I spend a lot of time asking local climbers to get to now the routes. How do you deal with this? The same thing goes for the outdoor, I always spend so much time to correctly read the topo. Do you have any tips how to deal with it?

Not quite sure that I understand your question, but in gyms in Europe, you just follow all of the same colored holds, in the US you generally follow the same color of tape. Outside, you just climb (generally it works well to follow the chalk if it's a popular climbing area).


lyczek


Nov 7, 2012, 8:03 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Finding the route [In reply to]
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Thank you for your reply.

When I go climbing outside where is a lot of routes and sometimes confused. I'm not always sure if I follow the original concept of the author. Sometimes I'm not sure about particular hold or crack. Mostly because topos are not to good.

In the gym after a while I know most of the routes. When it happens I start to set my own with my friends (mostly for boulders). But we have a problem of sharing them. We use photos with annotations. You know better tools?

I hope this time I made myself more clear.


budman


Nov 7, 2012, 8:27 AM
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Re: [lyczek] Finding the route [In reply to]
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A famous climber once was quoted as saying, nothing defines the line of a climb more than a crack. If it is harder than what the route depicts then possibly your off route. But not always, grades are subjective. Chalk, bolts, booty gear, shit, pee bottles, etc. are signs that the route might go this way, but not always. You might do the route differently because not all climbers climb the same route in the same way, people differ. One fact remains that almost all routes lead to fun. So if your having fun your probably on route.


herites


Nov 7, 2012, 8:51 AM
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Re: [lyczek] Finding the route [In reply to]
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If you can reach the bolts with your hand, then you're on the route, in my opinion.


kennoyce


Nov 7, 2012, 9:12 AM
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Re: [lyczek] Finding the route [In reply to]
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lyczek wrote:
Thank you for your reply.

When I go climbing outside where is a lot of routes and sometimes confused. I'm not always sure if I follow the original concept of the author. Sometimes I'm not sure about particular hold or crack. Mostly because topos are not to good.

In the gym after a while I know most of the routes. When it happens I start to set my own with my friends (mostly for boulders). But we have a problem of sharing them. We use photos with annotations. You know better tools?

I hope this time I made myself more clear.

It sounds like you are trying to climb outside like you would in the gym. Outside, as long as you can reach all of the protection (i.e. bolts, or cracks where you are supposed to place pro) you are on route. there are no holds or cracks that are off route unless the line is an eliminate (and the guide will tell you this).

Since you're from Germany lets take Action Direct in the Frankenjura as an example. Wolfgang Gullich did the first ascent of the route using a 16 move sequence, later, several other climbers did the same route using an 11 move sequence. Just because these other climbers didn't use the same sequence or holds as the FA doesn't mean that they didn't climb the route.

As far as making up your own boulder problems at the gym goes, I'd think that photos with annotations would be the best way of doing it.


jomagam


Nov 7, 2012, 1:12 PM
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Re: [herites] Finding the route [In reply to]
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herites wrote:
If you can reach the bolts with your hand, then you're on the route, in my opinion.

Except I've been to areas where you can reach bolts on 3 different routes. I hate that.


lyczek


Nov 9, 2012, 3:29 AM
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Re: [jomagam] Finding the route [In reply to]
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When I see this mess:



I think of an app which could help, something like this:



What do you think?


(This post was edited by lyczek on Nov 9, 2012, 4:28 AM)


budman


Nov 9, 2012, 8:38 AM
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Re: [jomagam] Finding the route [In reply to]
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Were you climbing some of Magic Ed's routes in The Potrero?


jomagam


Nov 9, 2012, 8:39 AM
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budman wrote:
Were you climbing some of Magic Ed's routes in The Potrero?

Nope, that was in Croatia.


marc801


Nov 9, 2012, 9:24 AM
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Re: [lyczek] Finding the route [In reply to]
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lyczek wrote:
When I see this mess:

[image]http://western.edu/student-life/fitness-center/copy2_of_copy_of_IMG_6688.JPG[/image]

I think of an app which could help, something like this:

[image]http://i.imgur.com/BsRoH.png[/image]

What do you think?
Another pointless, nearly useless app taking up space on my phone. I guess for some, colors are hard.


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