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Cds26
Dec 6, 2012, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2012
Posts: 20
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So, I know that two screws are often used at multi pitch belay anchors, but could you just use a single abalakov? or a single abalakov plus a screw? or two abalakovs? I know they are normally used for rappeling, but could they work as a belay station in these scenarios. This would allow you to have more screws to lead the pitch, rather than using 4 screws to build 2 belay anchors, you use 1-2. Thoughts? Experiences? Help appreciated
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csproul
Dec 7, 2012, 7:50 AM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1690
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Cds26 wrote: So, I know that two screws are often used at multi pitch belay anchors, but could you just use a single abalakov? or a single abalakov plus a screw? or two abalakovs? I know they are normally used for rappeling, but could they work as a belay station in these scenarios. This would allow you to have more screws to lead the pitch, rather than using 4 screws to build 2 belay anchors, you use 1-2. Thoughts? Experiences? Help appreciated
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njrox
Dec 7, 2012, 8:16 AM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 250
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Cds26 wrote: So, I know that two screws are often used at multi pitch belay anchors, but could you just use a single abalakov? or a single abalakov plus a screw? or two abalakovs? I know they are normally used for rappeling, but could they work as a belay station in these scenarios. This would allow you to have more screws to lead the pitch, rather than using 4 screws to build 2 belay anchors, you use 1-2. Thoughts? Experiences? Help appreciated
Single Abalakov - no.
Two Abalakovs OR One Abalakov and One Screw - yes.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 9, 2012, 10:36 AM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25317
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njrox wrote: Cds26 wrote: So, I know that two screws are often used at multi pitch belay anchors, but could you just use a single abalakov? or a single abalakov plus a screw? or two abalakovs? I know they are normally used for rappeling, but could they work as a belay station in these scenarios. This would allow you to have more screws to lead the pitch, rather than using 4 screws to build 2 belay anchors, you use 1-2. Thoughts? Experiences? Help appreciated Single Abalakov - no. Two Abalakovs OR One Abalakov and One Screw - yes.
http://willgadd.com/...ti-pitch-ice-routes/
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sandstone
Dec 9, 2012, 4:58 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Apr 21, 2004
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There's lots of good stuff in that article for sure, but when I'm leading ice I don't want my belayer to be drilling and tying a thread -- I want him to be focused entirely on me. I also don't like the idea of belaying a leader on ice with an autolocking device.
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Cds26
Dec 19, 2012, 8:57 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Jun 19, 2012
Posts: 20
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Very helpful Thanx for all of the good responses!
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qwert
Dec 25, 2012, 11:01 AM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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A while ago i translated some tests by the german alpine club:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2065443
They also have some data on V-threads, however it is in glacier ice, so its not 100% applicable to waterfall ice.
But the most severe problem would be the time needed. However if - for whatever reason (run out of screws and have to make it to the top?) - you absolutely need to belay from a V-thread, it probably could be safely done, though i would not really advice it.
qwert
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