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saucerer
Feb 11, 2013, 6:20 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2013
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So after visiting a doctor, I've finally decided to take some time off to rest my pulleys. Does anyone have a training plan they recommend using while taking a break from climbing? Is weight training admissible? Yoga? Swimming? I started climbing a little less than two years ago, currently climb V6/5.12-, and (just like everyone else) I'd like to keep as much strength as possible for when I come back in a few weeks.
Any recommendations for rehabbing and training would be awesome!
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FFSchooley
Mar 6, 2013, 7:47 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2012
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I'm in the same boat you are and plan to do the following;
Cardio of couse, loosing a few pounds to improve weight/streingth ratio.
Legs. Do pistol squats, lunges, and other movements that simulate climbing motion and use one leg at a time. Do weighted step ups facing against a wall with your foot positioned as if stepping on an edge.
Hike hills with a pack on.
Work on pushing muscle groups with excercises such as push ups, bench, shoulder press, etc... This is good to do all the time since climbing uses lots of pulling muscle movements.
Work on various climbing skills, especially if you have friends that need to learn about anchor building or self rescue.
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Kartessa
Mar 6, 2013, 8:02 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
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saucerer wrote: So after visiting a doctor, I've finally decided to take some time off to rest my pulleys. Does anyone have a training plan they recommend using while taking a break from climbing? Is weight training admissible? Yoga? Swimming? I started climbing a little less than two years ago, currently climb V6/5.12-, and (just like everyone else) I'd like to keep as much strength as possible for when I come back in a few weeks. Any recommendations for rehabbing and training would be awesome!
Post on a climbing forum and pretend you climb like the rest of us
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saucerer
Mar 8, 2013, 8:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2013
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Thanks, Schooley. I'm actually coming to the end of my break, and I have an easy gym session planned for tomorrow (technique drills on jugs and slopers). I wish that I had heard/thought of the single-leg squats earlier in my break - they sound great.
For posterity, here's my injury and time-off training info:
I partially ruptured my A2 pulleys in my left long and little fingers. During my four weeks off, my main exercise outlet was running. I put down about 75 miles on the fairly hilly terrain where I live, in 3-10 mile bouts. I also swam, which seemed to help increase ROM in my shoulders. I did push-ups, core exercises, and full body static and dynamic stretches regularly. I generally shied away from bar/dumbbell exercises to keep my fingers from being loaded with too much weight. I did occasional yoga and occasional sand bucket rehab. Over the last week, I started doing hangs, a few pull-ups, and some half front-levers (one leg up) with x-taped fingers.
I iced my fingers 1-2x per day for the first week, and then stopped. I bought a paraffin bath and waxed up my hands a few times per week. I don't know how much it helped, but it felt pretty awesome. I didn't take any NSAIDS during the entire period. I took glucosamine/chondroitin/MSM in addition to my regular vitamins. I'm undecided about the supplements, but I figured they couldn't hurt.
My fingers feel pretty good today. Not 100%, but a lot of people say healing won't really "complete" until climbing resumes, so we'll see. I'll try to update this thread to let other people know whether my plan was worth it or bullshit.
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