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Medic91
Feb 24, 2013, 8:44 PM
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I've been climbing for about three years now and have always used quickdraws for my anchors off of chains at the end of a route. The place I usually go has the chains hanging right off the top of the route to avoid rope rubbing.
I recently found a different place where the chains are back away from the ledge creating a large amount of rubbing on the rope when top roping. I went to REI and purchased two things of webbing and two locking carabiners hoping to learn some more about safe ways to make my anchors hang off the ledge and eliminate the rope drag.
Are there any great videos or websites that can help me learn ways to anchor safely? I have been learning little bits and pieces but I am wanting more information before putting my gear and life on the line.
Thanks
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chadnsc
Feb 25, 2013, 2:08 PM
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The only and most important thing that I will tell you is this:
Find other experienced climbers in your area and ask them how they would set up this anchor. Ask them to show you how. Ask them why they chose build the anchor in the way they did.
In my opinion the internet is not the place to ask for a how to on building even simple anchors.
Good luck and be safe!
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njrox
Feb 25, 2013, 2:39 PM
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chad's reply is right on the money.
reading craig luebben's "rock climbing anchors" and/or john long's "how to rock climb" is a great way to build a foundation for understanding some basic principles.
sounds like you're on the right track with extending your master point over the edge. take someone with some experience along to explain the finer points.
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Kartessa
Feb 25, 2013, 3:58 PM
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Medic91 wrote: I've been climbing for about three years now and have always used quickdraws for my anchors off of chains at the end of a route. The place I usually go has the chains hanging right off the top of the route to avoid rope rubbing. I recently found a different place where the chains are back away from the ledge creating a large amount of rubbing on the rope when top roping. I went to REI and purchased two things of webbing and two locking carabiners hoping to learn some more about safe ways to make my anchors hang off the ledge and eliminate the rope drag. Are there any great videos or websites that can help me learn ways to anchor safely? I have been learning little bits and pieces but I am wanting more information before putting my gear and life on the line. Thanks
Toprope anchors off bolts aren't rocket surgery...
Step 1: Clip bolt with locking biner, have long sling/runner/cord attached.
Step 2: Repeat with at least 1 more bolt.
Step 3: Gather ends together, ensure they are long enough to hang over the cliff. Bonus if they're each taking an equal share of the load (See Equalizing).
Step 4: Tie ends in an overhand knot, and use two (better: locking, best: Steel locking [less shit left on your rope this way] ) carabiners. This will be where your rope runs through.
Step 5: Check your system, making sure everything is closed and connected and locked. (*)
Now
Even though it's not rocket science, common sense is rare. So practice this in your mom's basement, out on your deck, in a tree... wherever. Then get someone who's done this before to look at it, could be that you're friends with an experienced climber, or nobody likes you very much so you'll have to take pictures and upload them here.
After that's been cleared, go to the crag on a busier day and have someone nearby check out your set-up... just to be sure.
(*)Get someone else to check your shit the first few times you set up, to make sure everything Super Awesome. Actually, even when you think you're top dog at setting up, don't be afraid to check with someone else.
You don't need to "Find a mentor" to spoon feed you instructions for a toprope anchor. Sure, its the #1 awesomest way to learn anything about rock climbing... but there's something to be said about someone who takes ownership of their own learning and development, yet still knows when to ask for help and admit they're wrong.
(This post was edited by Kartessa on Feb 25, 2013, 4:02 PM)
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chadnsc
Feb 25, 2013, 5:02 PM
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Kartessa's got it things pretty accurate. Especially the part about get someone to check your anchor the first few times.
Some people will do things a bit differently than what is in Kartessa's post so keep that in mind. It's not that a different way is any more or less correct, it's just that people have personal preferences in anchor building. That's where having someone mentor you a bit can be helpful as you'll learn different methods and resons why to build an an anchor a certain way.
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markc
Feb 25, 2013, 6:25 PM
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I'll second Kartessa's suggestion that you should make sure you've practiced at home and have various set-ups and knots wired. Practice with your partners so you can double-check each other. Hell, even bring a book with you if you need to. Better to be the obvious n00b (who people will probably offer aid to) than to mess something up.
Depending upon the nature of the rock where you're climbing, you may want to pad the cliff edge. This will provide some protection against your webbing cutting on a sharp edge and extend the life of your anchoring materials. You don't need fancy edge protectors, and I've seen everything from short sections of fire hose, a towel, or a jacket in a pinch.
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iron106
Feb 25, 2013, 8:14 PM
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Medic91 wrote: I've been climbing for about three years now and have always used quickdraws for my anchors off of chains at the end of a route. The place I usually go has the chains hanging right off the top of the route to avoid rope rubbing. I recently found a different place where the chains are back away from the ledge creating a large amount of rubbing on the rope when top roping. I went to REI and purchased two things of webbing and two locking carabiners hoping to learn some more about safe ways to make my anchors hang off the ledge and eliminate the rope drag. Are there any great videos or websites that can help me learn ways to anchor safely? I have been learning little bits and pieces but I am wanting more information before putting my gear and life on the line. Thanks
Are you running your climbing rope over the ledge?
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Kartessa
Feb 25, 2013, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
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I offered the method above because its the simplest. Some people will use a cordelettes method (look it up!), others like an equalette (worth googling too), sliding x (will turn up pics in a search), "quad" and others. These can be more efficient, but take a little more thought so I figured I'd keep it as simple as possible.
There is some very good reading out there, many people are happy to teach, but it can be hard to get someone on your schedule to teach you. In the meantime, get a book or two, scour the Internet for different approaches. Search the forum for other people's set ups (there are tons) and read the comments. Expose yourself to as many approaches and opinions as you can with an open mind and learn from them. Some will be excellent and others deadly, so look, listen (or read) and learn.
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