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scienceguy288
May 16, 2014, 2:24 PM
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I have a few extra locking bikers. I was thinking about using them in alpine draws for trad. Would they be safe to use unlocked in this fashion? I expect so, but wasn't sure...
edit: biners, not bikers; trad, not grad. Damn autocorrect.
(This post was edited by scienceguy288 on May 16, 2014, 2:26 PM)
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dagibbs
May 16, 2014, 2:53 PM
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scienceguy288 wrote: I have a few extra locking bikers. I was thinking about using them in alpine draws for trad. Would they be safe to use unlocked in this fashion? I expect so, but wasn't sure... edit: biners, not bikers; trad, not grad. Damn autocorrect.
Safe for this use? Generally yes. Convenient? Maybe not so much.
Locking biners will be heavier than non-lockers, so are not often used for this. Also, they aren't generally designed to ease clipping in the way that biners for draws are designed -- but people used to use ovals (and still do) for this, so that's not a big issue.
The only safety issue I could see is if the spring for closing the gate wasn't as strong, and with a heavier gate due to the locking mechanism on it, they would be more inclined towards gate flutter than a regular biner. If worried about that, of course, you could lock them.
Hm... I'm assuming screw-locks here. If you're talking about some of the twist-lock auto-locking ones, then the other issue is that opening them one-handed to clip may be a bit annoying, so they'd be more awkward to use than you really want.
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JimTitt
May 16, 2014, 5:30 PM
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Normally while you´re climbing the bottom one vibrates itself locked and when you want to clip......
If you insist then get used to racking upside down:-)
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rgold
May 16, 2014, 7:46 PM
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I know some folks who carry one, perhaps two quickdraws made up with locking biners for mission-critical placements in which an unclipping incident would be really catastrophic. But their intention is to lock both biners when they employ such a draw, the locking being the whole point.
There are now extremely light locking carabiners that make weight considerations almost moot.
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dagibbs
May 17, 2014, 3:15 AM
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rgold wrote: I know some folks who carry one, perhaps two quickdraws made up with locking biners for mission-critical placements in which an unclipping incident would be really catastrophic. But their intention is to lock both biners when they employ such a draw, the locking being the whole point.
Yeah, I've heard those called "slow draws". :)
(This post was edited by dagibbs on May 17, 2014, 3:15 AM)
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marc801
May 17, 2014, 3:55 AM
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dagibbs wrote: Yeah, I've heard those called "slow draws". :)
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majid_sabet
May 17, 2014, 6:46 AM
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I use locking biner every few clips to secure potential rope coming off
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 17, 2014, 6:47 AM)
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jumpingrock
May 18, 2014, 4:09 PM
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I have one draw with a lightweight locking biner, I usually use it on the first bolt where falling is possible.
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maldaly
May 19, 2014, 2:02 PM
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You need to get a few Edelrid Pure Sliders. It's a lightweight offset D carabiner with a low profile slide lock. With just a little bit of practice you can get the rope in or out of a hanging draw, one handed. You can get them at Mountain GEar.
http://www.mountaingear.com/...dF1R-CRkj2-56F_D_BwE
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