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markguycan
Oct 31, 2014, 12:07 AM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 136
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What an awesome climb and a perfect way to spend my birthday!
http://www.everytrail.com/...p;picture_id=7586440
We actually hiked about 16 mi round trip with >5000ft gain. You can skip the expensive train ride but it adds 4 steep miles each way.
We boarded the train in Durango, CO at 8am; 3hrs later we hiked 3mi on good trail from D&SNGRR drop off at Elk Park ($95)
At the "beaver pond" (no beaver but we did see a moose)head up 2.5mi steep climber's trail to Vestal Basin (waterfall camp- we heard wolves! and saw mountain goats!)
Continue up climber's trail to terminal moraine field between Arrow and Vestal Peaks. Access the grassy diagonal ramp on Wham from the left. Begin easy 5th class climb on the far right.
Many ways to go, we ended up doing a short 5.8 crux which could have been avoided.
Sweet summit over 13,800ft!
Descend south from the true summit down a well-travelled but unmarked steep and loose gully. Watch for cairns (about 400 vertical feet) to tell you when to head right toward the Arrow saddle. Descend nasty talus slope from saddle (about 300ft) then access the "golden" medial moraine ridge and follow cairned path of least resistance (1mi) to terminal moraine and descend to meadow camp.
Tips:
We did this as a simul-climb in 4 or 5 pushes. We used 90 ft of rope, a few nuts and 6 small cams largest being a #1 Camalot. The descent is the hardest part.
(This post was edited by markguycan on Nov 3, 2014, 3:32 PM)
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sungam
Oct 31, 2014, 10:53 AM
Post #2 of 4
(6577 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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Kinda baffled as to why I have never heard of this route, it looks rad!
Nice TR and pics, too.
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sonso45
Nov 1, 2014, 6:41 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
Posts: 997
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Looks like a fun climb. Thanks for sharing.
If I'm ever in need of a long walk, count me in.
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markguycan
Nov 3, 2014, 3:40 PM
Post #4 of 4
(6412 views)
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 136
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thanks again Manny for the gear loan and old rope!
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