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thomasribiere
Jan 19, 2003, 3:10 PM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
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that's what I'm doing by now... training indoor twice a week on small and overhanging holds... I already feel some pain (especially when I type on the keyboard - is it usual for you?) in the fingers.
It frightens me. But my level is increasing, so...
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wyomingclimber
Jan 19, 2003, 6:17 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
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If I understand your post, you're working power by doing relatively short, steep boulder problems on small holds. This kind of training, while effective, is really hard on you. Some tips:
1: Never more than two times per week.
2: Never for more than 6 weeks at a time.
3: Consider adding weight to your body and using bigger holds.
4: Don't train grip positions you're strong at--focus on weaknesses.
5: Stop if you begin experiencing pain.
The reason you feel out of shape is because this kind of training does very little for anaerobic and aerobic endurance and by extending your power cycle for far too long, you've lost a lot of endurance.
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mypeace
Jan 19, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
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I have a hangboard and while I was looking for workouts and they said to not train with it doing crimps (closed) because the pressure you are putting on your fingers is really bad, and if you train doing that you are gonna injure the surrounding muscle and joints. Kind of sounds similar to what you are doing.
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pancaketom
Jan 20, 2003, 12:22 AM
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
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Pretty much what you train at gets better. So if you only use little holds, you will find your ability on bigger holds could go down. very it up.
Also the advice limiting training on crimpers is good. Work big holds and slopers with weight.
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