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cookiecrumb
Feb 15, 2003, 4:23 PM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
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After some hard days of climbing I find I have difficulty completely extending my fingers, particularly my ringer finger. I can straighten if completely when I think about it, but it doesn't sit straight on it's own. It goes back to normal after a couple of weeks.
My doc was telling me this is a chronic problem frequently encountered in climbers.
Does this happen to anyone else? I am wondering if it is a problem with the central slip. When the central slip ruptures, it causes this deformity, but it would not get better if it was a rupture.
Dave
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dingus
Feb 15, 2003, 4:34 PM
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Of course it's common! Unless you're gifted with exceptional genes, a light weight body frame and employ excellent training and climbing habits, you too will suffer life-long finger injuries. Each will add insult to injury until, like say Royal Robbins, you are nearly crippled by arthiritis.
I have had numerous hand and finger problems over the years, excerbated by climbing over weight and poor training habits. They're in decent fighting shape just now, as I largely gave up gym climbing in favor of keeping my hands intact. It's almost a miracle what proper rest, a decent fitness level and good technique can over come.
There is plenty of lore both here and on other forums about how to train and strengthen your hands and how not to over-do it.
It is my experience and observation however, that most hand injuries are rather permanent in that 100% recovery is not likely.
Watch those crimps, said the open handed gimp...
DMT
[ This Message was edited by: dingus on 2003-02-15 08:36 ]
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reborne
Feb 15, 2003, 5:25 PM
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does anyone climber or not have fingers that are striaght when relaxed???????????
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xanx
Feb 15, 2003, 5:26 PM
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well, one of the best climbers i have met can barely climb anymore (well, can't hardly climb like he once could) because he destroyed his hands, mostly through campusing. think about it, campusing, while it will make you beast strong, puts an incredible amount of strain on your fingers - a quick warmup or so every day shouldn't help, but campusing constantly could cause some real problems.
my next question would be, did you have any other injuries to that hand/finger in the past that may have been aggrevated by climbing?
oh and does this cause you any pain? or is it just a nuisance after climbing? no pain = no problem, right? (unless you are one of those weirdos who actually cares about your future...)
see another doctor if youre really worried...
mike
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kalcario
Feb 15, 2003, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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climbing 30 years with no finger or hand injuries or pain, my wrists are a little jacked but I tend to believe that's more from working construction than climbing. Train in gym 2 nights a week, never on small holds or slopers, just traversing and lead routes on med-big holds, only pull hard on small/sloping holds when absolutely necessary (on redpoint). Unless you are supernaturally gifted bouldering will destroy you in a few years as the current generation of boulderers will soon be discovering...hope to still be climbing 5.13 when I'm 60 but we'll see...
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flying_dutchman
Feb 15, 2003, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
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ur hand should naturally curl a little. I think we are born that way.
And if ur fingers hurt like hell often, then mabe ease off a little cause climbing doesn't exactly do wonders for the healing process.
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