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daryl314
Feb 28, 2003, 9:02 PM
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Whenever my climbing partner does crimpy stuff, she winds up with fluid around her joints, and her fingers swell up. I've noticed that her fingers hyperextend more than most people when she crimps (an angle like \_ ). Does anyone have suggestions of how to deal with this pain? Or ways to strengthen crimp strength without causing further injury?
Thanks,
Daryl
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surforclimb
Feb 28, 2003, 9:17 PM
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Well if her fingers are swelling after crimping, then don't crimp. You should be able to find routes without crimpy holds on them. you can also work open hand hangboard. Open hand will strenthin you arms and hands faster and better then crimps. You can also try to tape the joints light enough so they still move but enough to keep the swelling down.
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collegekid
Feb 28, 2003, 9:26 PM
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open hand, open hand, open hand.
I don't know what's causing the large crimping angle (maybe loose tendons?) or what is causing the fluid (damage to tendons/ligaments?) but getting stronger with an open hand grip couldn't hurt. How hard of climbs were these? I'm just wondering how much strain was actually being put on her fingers.
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miker
Feb 28, 2003, 9:34 PM
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Well my knuckles are not a happy place either. I see some cartilige buildup at the first knuckle and I am constantly cracking my knuckles.
Would improving my open hand stength help with that? I am quite strong on the thin little edges, while slopers are still my enemy...but I keep working it.
What I am really asking is what do people recommend in terms of stretching and specific types of strengthening moves to improve knuckle happiness??
I have tried glucosamine chondroitin, but I got one bad batch of the stuff that made my knuckles actually swell so I am leery of the supplements now..
Thanks for your time
miker
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daryl314
Feb 28, 2003, 10:08 PM
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We're talking gym routes in the 5.10 to 5.12- range.
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aimeerose
Mar 13, 2003, 12:58 AM
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She has hyperlaxity in her joints (very common for females). She probably can hyperextend her elbows and knees and is just generally very flexable. It's very important for her not to stretch those joints. She has too much mobility. The only way I know of to decrease mobility is to stregthen. Maybe if she works easier crimp moves until she builds up the tendons in her fingers a little more. Just avoid whatever is causing the inflammation. Maybe use some putty to streghten the tendons and muscles in her forearms.
The fluid is inflammation and when this occurs she should reduce it with ice and anti-inflammatories.
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jt512
Mar 13, 2003, 5:25 AM
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I've got to second the suggestion not to crimp. Learn to climb open-handed.
-Jay
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