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norcalrockdoc
Mar 5, 2003, 6:02 AM
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Are there any good sport routes near the Sacramento area? I am looking for routes that are not "mixed gear" routes, and preferably not death slabs. I like steep to overhung with positive holds. ---- New to the area.
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roughster
Mar 5, 2003, 6:10 AM
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Auburn is the only local area for sport routes. Most routes are newly developed within the last 2 years. Current count is 28 and it is always going up.
The area is blocky limestone, very much positive holds. Nothing "super" steep developed yet, but I can get you on routes with the draws hanging away from the rock I promise :)
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rrrADAM
Mar 8, 2003, 2:09 PM
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Aaron is the resident expert for NorCal, so I would trust his beta.
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brutusofwyde
Mar 10, 2003, 8:50 AM
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Slightly further afield --
Calaveras Dome
Sonora Crags such as the Grotto and Jailhouse
Emeralds
Then there's the stuff up at Donner Summit.
Brutus
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ikefromla
Mar 10, 2003, 9:31 AM
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Donner Summit i hear? mmmmmm Steep Climb Named Desire.
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roughster
Mar 10, 2003, 10:15 AM
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As Brutus mentioned, there are other areas, its just a matter of what your definition of "local" is heheh :)
I like to drive as little possible, especially heading in the direction of Tahoe. Weekend traffic on the 50/80 is to be avoided at all costs heheh :)
At least with Auburn you suffer ALOT less :lol:
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dano
Mar 13, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Aaron - is Auburn SRA 'open', 'closed' or 'noen of the above' to climbing right now? And of course I have to ask - any bouldering there? It's a quarry right?
- dano
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roughster
Mar 14, 2003, 2:37 AM
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Current Access at Auburn is .... :?: :?: :?:
The situation is as follows:
The State Recreation Area does not specificlly mention climbing in any of it's Reacreational Charter Usage Plan or governing documents. Ironically enough, the SRA does allow: Horse Back Riding, Target Shooting, White Water River Running, Motocross, Mountain Bike Activities, and just about every opther "recreational" activity under the sun. The rules that govern climbing as an activity are no different from Diable, Mt Tamalpias, Mickey'S Beach, Malibu Creek, Castle Crags, Donner Summit, Patrick's Point, and many other state areas which allow climbing.
Because of a non-climbing related rope jumping incident (fatality) in the early 90s, the SRA Supe decided that climbing should not be allowed. A sign was posted showing a man rapelling with a headlamp with a line through it. This gives me the impression that rapelling into the local mine shafts are not allowed, which by the way happens every day out there.
Fast forward to today. The Access Fund is currently working with the SRA to allow climbing. Progress has been slow, but there have been some positive responses. In the meantime, rangers have kicked out climbers on a hit or miss basis. Soemtimes all weekend is busy with climbers and no ranger contacts, but then mid week one group will end up getting kicked out. So far, ranger contacts haven't been too aggressive but that may be due to the fact that people are smart and just accepting it, being polite, and leaving. All it may take to jeopardize this "quasy" access is one smart ass giving a ranger a hard time.
SO the question that pops to your mind I assume is, "Why would Roughster publicize the area?" Believe it or not, I do have reasons. The first and foremost is that more than likely we (Access Fund and local activists) will call on the local climbing public to help with securing access. That may mean attending meetings, writing letters, helping with clean up/trail events, etc... If noone knows about the area, how many would be willing to help?
It is a fine line to walk. How to let people know about the area, but also how to keep it from getting out of control and forcing the SRA to act negatively. My biggest reason is word is out on Auburn as I expected it would get out. The climbing here is amazing and the area isn't even scratched in potential. The only way to keep people "in check" as its related to access and its cocnerns, is to keep them informed.
I have made every attempt to keep the Sac climbing populace up to speed on current access developments via an email list. If you are interested in hearing more, email me at Roughit3@aol.com.
If access is ever resolved *fingers crossed* , Auburn will take a prominate roll (if not the lead) in sport climbing in and around the Bay/Sacramento area.
Now as for Bouldering, the area is a quarry so there isnt alot of bouldering potential though there could be a few problems (there is one established V3 traverse).
Aaron
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itsreachyman
Mar 14, 2003, 2:52 AM
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Does anyone know if Consumnes River Gorge has any sport routes? I climbed there several years ago when I was brand spanking new to climbing and remember a bunch of fun topropes. Consumnes is off of hwy 50, not too far from placerville.
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roughster
Mar 24, 2003, 4:10 PM
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Consumnes doesn't really have a ton of what you would call "modern sport climbs" hehe. Mostly a trad area, with a few bolted routes.
Expect gang ropers on the weekends is what I hear.
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aimeerose
Apr 1, 2003, 4:59 AM
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There's some steep stuff out by Redding if you're willing to drive that far. We always called it "Shredding", but I don't know if that's the real name. It's definatly sport. If you want more info, let me know and I can work on it.
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roughster
Apr 1, 2003, 5:38 AM
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The Shredding is decent but is very limited especially in the 11 and under range. In addition, the rock quality is no better, in fact I would suggest worse, than Auburn. I have been there a few times due to being in the area, but I would hesitate to call it a good Local to Sac climbing area. Mileage is around ~200 miles.
Its too bad Natural Bridge is so far down the 36 :( That place would be ideal if located somewhere right off I-5 :) Unfortunately it is also plagued with Access concerns as well though :(
The Shredding is also known as "Burney Limestone" for those interested.
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mnicholas77
Apr 1, 2003, 4:36 PM
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I'm pretty new to the area as well. Actually I live down by Fresno. There's an ass ton of stuff around Lake Tahoe.
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dingus
Apr 1, 2003, 4:40 PM
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In reply to: I'm pretty new to the area as well. Actually I live down by Fresno. There's an ass ton of stuff around Lake Tahoe.
Calling Fresno 'local' to Sacramento is like saying New York City and DC are neighboring cities! It's a big state.
DMT
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kalcario
Apr 3, 2003, 1:45 AM
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Jailhouse does'nt qualify as local to Sacto?
The big question is, will Sac finally get revenge on LA in the playoffs this year...
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dingus
Apr 3, 2003, 4:33 PM
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In reply to: Jailhouse does'nt qualify as local to Sacto? The big question is, will Sac finally get revenge on LA in the playoffs this year...
Table Mtn. = Jailhouse.
The bigger question: Will LA even bother showing up? Pretty bad when the best team in the league becomes an 'also ran' based soley upon the health of a single BIG TOE! No ShAQ = No L.A.
DMT
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roughster
Apr 4, 2003, 7:54 PM
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*gasp* both Dingus and Joe mentioned Jailhouse. LOL, Tom will surely be pissed now!
There are many reasons why Jailhouse probably isn't considered by many to be local:
Still around 100 miles, driving on the (4) or (120) sucks, locals who like to think of it as "their" crag and have the appropriately poor attitude (not all but many), no decent warm ups: polished 11d is not a good warm up for most heheh, poison oak, creek crossing, seeping holds, private property, fixed draws that would make even Euros skeptical to whether or not they would hold body weight let alone a fall, car break ins, shitty approach, and it has two season: Too Hot or Too Wet. If that doesn't scare them off, how about those Suicide Bomber Cows!! :lol:
Nah, in reality Jailhouse is a great crag to hit up if you can handle it.
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badphish
May 17, 2003, 6:19 PM
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if your willing to drive a few hours, theres a cliff in susanville with about 7-8 bolted routes, all pretty difficult. but i wouldn't make the effort over there just for that cliff.
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