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dustinap
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Dec 13, 2001, 10:10 PM
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Rap stations
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Lets say I wanted to replace a rap station, that already is bolted. I have my webbing, 1 inch climb spec, and a rap ring on it. Can I just tie the webbing DIRECTLY to the bolt hangers, and rap off it, or do I HAVE to use a carabiner to join the webbing to the bolt hangers?

Thanks


compclimber


Dec 13, 2001, 10:38 PM
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DO NOT RAP OFF OF WEBBING the rope will abrade the webbing and tear through it. Your asking for trouble if all you rap off of is webbing, at least tie a rap ring into it...better yet leave a biner behind...6 bucks isn't worth your life.


clmbngfiend


Dec 13, 2001, 10:57 PM
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It's not an ideal set up but i would rap off it. IT would be better to have two loops of webbing and two rap rings though


Partner rrrADAM


Dec 13, 2001, 11:32 PM
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I clean and replace old ones all the time...

Clean ALL old webbing, especially American Triangles... Use new webbing with individual loops from each bolt to at least TWO links/rings equalized. I now use retired rope for this, good way to recycle it, and more bomber.


rrrADAM


dustinap
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Dec 14, 2001, 12:41 AM
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Maybe no one actually read my post.

I said I would use a rap ring, okay? I said that just as clear as I'd use webbing. I'm not that stupid.

Now, I asked if I can tie webbing off directly to bolts, or if I have to use a biner or any kind of link to ATTACH the webbing to the anchor.

I KNOW I HAVE TO USE A RAP RING, BUT DO I HAVE TO USE ANYTHING TO ATTACH THE WEBBING TO THE ANCHOR?


Partner rrrADAM


Dec 14, 2001, 12:58 AM
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It's OK to tie directly to the bolts. I only do this.


rrrADAM


graniteboy


Dec 14, 2001, 2:39 AM
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GRUSSS GOTTTT!!!
All that hub-bub and they didn't even read the question. Here's an answer.
You can indeed tie the webbing directly to the bolt. It's best if you use 2 separate slings, 1 for each bolt, so if a sling fails, U don't wave bye bye to the world
If you're using a hanger without rounded edges, it helps to "pad" the edge of the hanger with the tail of the knot in the sling, so you don't cut a sling .
If this is your local crag, take some pride; consider making the HUGE investment of two 1 1/5' pieces of some chain, and place that there w/screwgates. That way you have a prettier, safer rap station, and it is less obtrusive than brite Red webbing.
And don't ferget t' think.


talons05


Dec 14, 2001, 2:40 AM
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I've never seen it done any other way than what you're talking about, dustin.

AW


talons05


Dec 14, 2001, 5:48 PM
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Oozing is right, you can't perfectly equalize those anchors with two pieces of webbing - one for each anchor. BUT! You can do it with two good pieces that run through both anchors. And, in the event of a failure or shredding, etc., of the webbing at one of the anchors, you will STILL have some backup... You will need a fairly long length of webbing for this... Take the webbing - DON'T TIE IT YET!!! and run it through both anchors. Slide a Rap ring onto the webbing. Now tie it with opposing double fisherman's or whatever knot you prefer for webbing loops. Now, take the length of webbing that is strung in between the anchors, and pull it down to meet the length that is draped below the anchors (where you should have the rap ring hanging...). Holding these two together, tie a figure 8 on a bight with the rap ring inside the loop of the 8. Ok, so if you do this twice, you have two equalized anchoring slings each with its own rap ring. When you rapell, you run your rope through both rings and go for it. NOTE: This anchor is really only "equalized" as long as you rapell directly beneath it. If you get off to one side or the other (as we sometimes tend to do) then they are no more equalized than with a separate sling for each anchor.

AW

[ This Message was edited by: talons05 on 2001-12-14 09:49 ]


paintinhaler


Dec 31, 2001, 8:04 PM
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chain links are good


socialclimber


Jan 1, 2002, 10:14 AM
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Gotta go with graniteboy on this one. Splash out and buy chain. Don't buy Zinc plated. If you really want to give the piggy-bank a fright, buy SS chain. You don't need rap rings, just make sure the links will accept a rope.


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