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bigbouda
Mar 19, 2003, 5:01 PM
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ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
pain pain pain
had been working on hard inside routes for 5 months getting ready to go outside tis spring and boom! ring finger tendons snapped at the base of the finger...and developped acute tendonitis in the middle finger and index of the other hand ....6 to 12 weeks later I'm supposed to be ok, but damn, this is hard for the moral...
I always stretch before and after climbing but it seems thta wasnt every i could have done to avoid this...
anyways, went to the physio yesterday to start training and stretching my fingers and she was amazed how disbalanced my hand strengh was.
the flexors (curling) muscles that we use in climbing were very strong but the extensors (outside of the forearm) are very weak in comparaison. This leads to increased stress on the finger tendons and soft tissue that makes injuries more frequent....
so everyone, try to train your extensors somtimes as we dont ever use them for climbing. for all the people who weight train, think agonist/ antagonist muscles....(ie bicep/tricep, quad/hamstring)
even simple reverse wrist curls should do.
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curt
Mar 19, 2003, 5:54 PM
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bigbouda,
Sorry to hear about your finger injuries. I have done similar things to both my middle fingers and both ring fingers. Often the "pulleys" are involved in these types of injuries--along with the tendons themselves.
6 to 12 weeks may be a bit optimistic, depending on the severity of the problem. My worst (R. ring finger) took a full year to heal properly. In addition to warming up properly, I would recommend taping your fingers between the joints for a little additional support. Good luck.
Curt
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bigbouda
Mar 19, 2003, 6:04 PM
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wow! a full year? now you're breaking my heart....
I guess I'll be sitting on the siedelines for as long as ot takes and get the mountainbike out then...
I really dont want to chance any re-injury.
The dr who saw the injury told me to forget crimpy routes for a while as the tissue will be sensitive fer a while....so I guess exposed slabs here i come, lol
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sid_rock
Mar 23, 2003, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: wow! a full year? now you're breaking my heart.... I guess I'll be sitting on the siedelines for as long as ot takes and get the mountainbike out then... I really dont want to chance any re-injury. The dr who saw the injury told me to forget crimpy routes for a while as the tissue will be sensitive fer a while....so I guess exposed slabs here i come, lol
Big Boulda,
If it's any comfort, I did something very similar to my right ring finger yesteday evening while hanging from a campus board. I heard something pop (twice) and now my ring finger can't handle stress during flexing. I haven't seen a doctor yet, but I think it's got to be very similar to your injury.
If I have to rehab for 6-12 weeks (God forbid) I'll take this time to increase my endurance (lots of biking/swimming/running) and work on my ignored muscle groups in the gym. There's always a silver lining to every cloud!
Sid
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curt
Mar 23, 2003, 8:16 PM
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By a somewhat bizarre coincidence (just 3 days after my post above) I popped a tendon or pulley in my left hand middle finger. So, I will now be climbing "V" nothing for at least the next few weeks.
I guess we should all keep in touch to see how our relative recoveries are coming along.
Curt
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bigbouda
Mar 24, 2003, 6:57 PM
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ouch guys....
sorry to hear that...but I guess youre right sid, training and biking can only do good....now only if i can convince the gf that i really need a new long travel fork fer the bike....
went to the physio this morn and really guys, stay off your fingers after your injury, chronic injury really sucks
so who else in rc.com is hurt?
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beercanclimber
Mar 24, 2003, 7:04 PM
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damn, just reading this thread is making me stretch, good luck to everyone with a quick rehab.
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westside196
Mar 24, 2003, 7:28 PM
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If it makes you guys feel any better, I think I'm starting to get an injury. Whenver I climb something crimpy, and I let go of the hold to move on to the next one, I get a really sharp pain in my forearm. It happens right below my wrist on the side of my forearm leading down from the back of my hand. The side where most people wear their watch. I don't really know what it is, but I think I'm gonna pull something or injure myself if it doesn't go away.
-Robert
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curt
Mar 24, 2003, 8:22 PM
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In reply to: If it makes you guys feel any better, I think I'm starting to get an injury. Whenver I climb something crimpy, and I let go of the hold to move on to the next one, I get a really sharp pain in my forearm. It happens right below my wrist on the side of my forearm leading down from the back of my hand. The side where most people wear their watch. I don't really know what it is, but I think I'm gonna pull something or injure myself if it doesn't go away. -Robert
Take a look at this:
http://www.holdz.co.uk/injuries.htm
I am now fairly certain that my recent injury is not related to the flexor tendon, but rather to the A4 support pulley. I base this on the fact that the pain is highly localized to that area of the finger and due to the charateristic "pop" sound that accompanies these injuries.
Also, if you have been climbing for a while, the tendon will strengthen, leaving the pulley as the weakest link. So, I am taking it easy and using ibuprofen round the clock. Most unfortunately, the only thing you can really do with these things is to do nothing--and wait.
Curt
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sid_rock
Mar 24, 2003, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: I am now fairly certain that my recent injury is not related to the flexor tendon, but rather to the A4 support pulley. I base this on the fact that the pain is highly localized to that area of the finger and due to the charateristic "pop" sound that accompanies these injuries. Curt
Curt,
I have been diagnosed with the exact same injury. I have a partial rupture on my A1 pulley sheath on my right ring finger. Fortunately, all the other digits are fine, so I shall be able to return to physical activity right away and back to climbing in 1-2 weeks.
Here's another link regarding this injury (scroll to the very bottom of the page):
http://w1.522.telia.com/~u52202076/klattring/asikter/skador/rocdoc.html
Also, you'll find this diagram useful:
http://www.davidlnelson.md/Trigger_Finger.htm
Sid
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