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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 22, 2003, 10:46 PM
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I am lookng for good ways to train my body and mind. In my opinion climbing is more of a mental game then a physical game. But both are very important.
Any info or feedback i can get will be very helpful. thanx.
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bumrush
Apr 22, 2003, 10:52 PM
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How long have you been climbing?
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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 22, 2003, 11:12 PM
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i have been going serious for two years. Off and on for about four years.
But iam not very strong.
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bumrush
Apr 22, 2003, 11:23 PM
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I go to the rock gym twice a week and hit the bowflex on the same days right after climbing. I'm getting really toned, but strong is a relative term. My brother in law can press close to 400lbs, but he couldn't climb a kiddie climb. Climbing is my escape as far as the mind goes.
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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 22, 2003, 11:40 PM
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Mind if i open a chat with you so we can just talk.
(p.s. for me the mind is probley whats holding me back)
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bumrush
Apr 22, 2003, 11:45 PM
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sure, how? I'm not a big computer guy
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nthusiastj
Apr 23, 2003, 12:28 AM
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YOGA!!!!
It helps you connect your body and mind. It is also a pretty good workout.
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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 23, 2003, 12:35 AM
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I don't think yogas for me man. I think I need a good work out every other day. But the mental part of climbing is whats getting me. And what types of work outs to try.
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clmbng_addict
Apr 23, 2003, 5:16 AM
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The best physical training for climbing, like everyone else always says, is climbing. If you can find other ways to train your finger strength, such as with a hangboard, then more power to you......however for me, the only thing that has been truly effective for physical conditioning is actual climbing (especially traversing laps).
As for mental training......have you tried meditating? I can't say it works, because i haven't tried it yet (i'm planning to though), but the people i know who really get into it and do it regularly, gain phenomenal focus and control over their minds.
I think my mind holds me back a lot, too, so i have an idea of what you're talking about. One thing i noticed is that many times when i fall, it's almost like i was expecting to. For instance if my foot blows off a hold, it is very often right after i unintentionally pictured that foot slipping....which most likely causes me to adjust my foot inperceptibly, but enough that it slips off the hold. It probably has to do with my innate desire to control my own fate--if i think i am in danger of falling, i may be subconsciously making myself fall prematurely in order to maintain the illusion of some form of control. That's just one example, but it shows how subconscious fear, especially fear of failure, and an inability to let go of that need to control/be assured of your fate can hold a person back from succeeding in such endeavors as climbing. Try to focus on more positive things when you climb: don't wonder if the foot will slip off that smear or if your crimp strength will give out before you can stick the next move.....instead concentrate on knowing that the foot will stay (often i think it's better to just not think about it at all), and crimp without thinking about how weak or strong you are. A large part of climbing really is mental control and attaining the right freedom of mind as you move across the rock, and i suspect that this is an important part of the key to getting in the "zone" when you climb and finding a rhythm, where you can climb with fluidity.
Anyway, not sure how much sense that all made since i'm kind of in a rush right now, but feel free to PM or IM me if you want to talk about it more, i love discussing things like this. Peace
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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 23, 2003, 9:04 PM
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Thanxs man. Thats exactly what i was looking for. Do you know any forms of meditation or someone who can tell me stuff about meditation. I would be very thankful if you did. Thanx again.
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westside196
Apr 23, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Here is a link on meditation.
http://www.aikidofaq.com/practice/a_section22.html
I think its a pretty good explanation of how to meditate.
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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 23, 2003, 9:52 PM
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Thanx man.
:D
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clmbng_addict
Apr 23, 2003, 10:30 PM
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That's a good link, i think i'll try that out.
If you really get into meditation, you might want to do a little research on Buddhism, Taoism, or other similar nonwestern ways of thinking. Like i said i haven't seriously tried getting into meditating (just messed around with it a little), but it seems that it goes along with a certain mindset that is more common in some eastern and indigenous/aboriginal cultures. To understand the basic principles, perspectives, and beliefs of those cultures may do a great deal to help your meditation and the feeling of inner peace and oneness with your environment you are working to achieve. For me personally, opening my mind to philosophies such as those in Buddhism, Taoism, and many Native American cultures has improved my climbing and helped increase my perception and enjoyment of the outdoors overall (not that i wasn't enjoying it immensely to begin with), as well as opening my mind to many other things. So you might want to check some of that out, maybe you'll like it.
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jackvoodoo
Apr 24, 2003, 4:05 PM
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To me, climbing is a self-expression. I move the way I feel, the way that's good to me. When I'm climbing, there's barely any thought going through my mind. For me, thinking should be done before climbing and after climbing. I am a boulderer, so I guess because the problems are short, I am able to concentrate for that short amount of time and do the problem.
I understand that you sometimes hear yourself say, "oh crap, i'm gonna fall" stuff. That happens to everyone. But is always a reflex for me to say "F no!" back in my mind and put myself back into place. The mind thing is a really hard thing for me to explain because I don't think I have that kind of problem that's similar to yours. Maybe it has something to do with your motivation? Or maybe your mood? Cause I know those kinda things can bother me a lot even with my mentaility.
I dunno, not sure if this post even did any good, but oh well. :oops:
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hroldan
Apr 24, 2003, 5:09 PM
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A friend told me this and it has been really helpful:
visualize. Before climbing, try doing it mentally. Climb in your mind at the base of the wall. Do the moves if you need to. Breath, thats the key. Close your eyes from time to time. It will relax you a lot. You will look weird doing moves alone in front of the wall but you'll see the diference after a while. Some times it gives you the feeling that you are sleep. Do it standing or sit.
To be honest, leading has helped me a lot on the mental factor. Now i just want to lead. And when i feel used to the route, i try a harder one and of course is hard but it helps me a lot to focus and stay focus. I think leading just force you to be focus. Dont try too hard routes to avoid freaking out.
hope it helps.
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gatorclimber
Apr 24, 2003, 5:26 PM
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Most athletes meditate on the action. Formal meditation where you focus inward and focus on nothing helps relax and loosen you. The type that really helps your climbing however is postive reinforcement meditation. This is where you think about the route you want to climb, imagine yourself climbing it, the way you want to climb it, and sending it. What I usually do is start with the traditional meditation and then towards the end start the positive reinforcement. I noticed you don't like yoga, personally thats what I do for the formal type, but you don't have to do that, you can just sit quietly. I would definitly try it though. It relaxs your body, helps body tension and flexability, balance, and clears your mind. Tai Chi also is a good form of "active" meditation. When I first started climbing I didn't have anyone to teach me moves and such so I watched a lot of online movies from climbing comps and things (climbxmedia.com). I learned a lot from those, but the most important thing was how they moved. If you watch all the really good climbers they move in a certain way up the rock. Powerful, smooth fluid movements, almost like they're in slow motion. Each movement is fluidly controlled and each foot and hand is precisely applied. I have found the movements in Tai Chi and Yoga to be good practice for this kind of movement. When you're climbing try to feel your weight shift from side to side, place your fingers on the hold and work them into the hold and feel its texture. Do the same with your feet, work it onto the hold, feel your weight transfer onto it. Try to make all your movements, even the dynos and deadpoints, as fluid and controlled as possible. While your climbing take slow deep breathes. I do it through my mouth. Try to make it hiss through your lips. Hear yourself breath in deep, then exhale. When people push themselves on a hard problem they tend to hold their breath. All this does is take away oxygen from your muscles, build up carbon dioxide, and raise your blood presure. Breathing deep and slow and listening to each breathe as you climb, moving fluidly, precisely, and powerfully, can make the act of climbing itself into an act of "active" meditation. It has helped me a whole lot, hope this helps you.
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roughster
Apr 25, 2003, 3:00 AM
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Triathalon specific training is my new vice. On a killer work out program that makes you dig in. Training multiple times a day is tough mentally and makes you get up and get moving even when you would prefer to sit on the couch.
Of course, the fact that I have two traithalons on the near horizon (within a month and a 1/2) is extra motivation. I hear drowning in the middle of the swim is bad form :lol:
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gdonde
Apr 25, 2003, 3:16 AM
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Climbing with a climber who is better than you, and is very positive and will push you very hard, you will find your body and mind will be able to do things you could never do before
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moabbeth
Apr 25, 2003, 3:37 AM
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Yoga is great for both. Teaches you patience, concentration, and what your body is capable of. And it's quiet and peaceful kinda like climbing. And it's you focusing on what YOU are capable of doing and with yoga you keep improving and pushing to new limits. It gives me that same great feeling when done that climbing does (only with less adrenaline, climbing still rules).
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crazymonkeyheadz
Apr 25, 2003, 5:03 AM
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Thanks guys. This new info will be of much use especially since i just did my first lead climb toda. This will really help with all that mental stess and physical stess. I just realized how physical lead climbing really is. The mental part was just as i thiught it would be...scary as hell!!!
Thanks alot for everyone insight. :wink:
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kleemer
Apr 25, 2003, 5:41 AM
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Tai Chi for sure. It is a physical meditation that focuses on knowing what every part of your body is doing at all times. There is tremendous strength and balance that develops through its practice. Tai Chi teaches how to relax (physically and mentally) to create the most power. It develops mental conditioning because every move is executed with absolute control: thoughtfully & directly. It teaches movement that I compare to the way animals move. Graceful, powerful and capable (focused). Doing tai chi will develop a strength deep in the muscle fiber and within the tendons and ligaments; which is all naturally developed in animals. We humans have to redevelop that capacity through a form excerise that not only develops the right kind of strength but also the mental capability. Practicing tai chi does do this and it also brings with it a sense of balance on a emotional/spiritual level.
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