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shisho
Apr 29, 2003, 2:49 PM
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I was out at the Red River gorge climbing "Jump for Joy". (A 5/9+ which I typically climb 5/10-5/11) It was in a sketchy move leading up right next to the 4th bolt and wanted my belayer to know that I could fall if I made the move. He pulled the slack out and I popped off as a result. I pulled the rope in front of me, straightened my legs, and looked at my landing. I noticed that the quickdraw looked like it was straight in front of me, but I knew that I was climbing to the left of it. I was climbing at an angle and I popped off in one too. I couldn't straighten myself so I hit partially sideways and my left ankel twisted. Unfortunately, the sprain was grade 3 (like a severe tennis ankle sprain). The ligaments in between my tibia and fibula tore and I had to have screws put in so to hold the bones together while the ligaments heal. I still have a month or two of recovery.
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zerogravity
Apr 29, 2003, 3:17 PM
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Bummer bro. I hope there aren't any bad feelings between you and your belayer since it sounds like the tightening of the slack contributed to the fall. It's tough to stay positive when you get injured climbing - especially at the beginning of the season - but it's part of the game. I don't know any solid climbers that haven't had to take off a few months here or there to nurse an injury. I myself in in a similar situation. I blew out my ACL and sprained my MCL in my knee taking a short, but awkward fall while bouldering (See link below if you're interested). It's been a month and I just took off my big robo-cop knee brace. Still can't walk right. It's a really slow process of rehab, I'll need the ACL surgery at some point, and it's anybody's guess when I'll be climbing again. I was pretty damn bitter when it happened but I've come to accept it and I'm diverting my attention elsewhere for a little while. Canoeing, biking, fly-fishing. It keeps me sane, but I know it's just a matter of time before I'm 100 percent back - you'll do the same. Good luck!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28983
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one900johnnyk
Apr 29, 2003, 3:18 PM
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that's why i always climb with moon shoes
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astone
Apr 29, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Whaaaa!
Sniffle, Sniffle...
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phairclimber
Apr 29, 2003, 3:41 PM
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i tried jump for joy as my first lead ever a few weeks ago. My guide book had it rated at 5.8, well that was the hardest/sketchiest 5.8 ive ever seen. I got sketched where all the pockets dissappear and all you have is these 5.10 crimps. im comfortable on 5.10, but not for my first lead, so i got the heck outta there, and one of my friends had to finish the route for me. the belay on that boulder is kinda scary as well.
that sux that you got hurt. Hope you heal fast!
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rhu
Apr 29, 2003, 3:58 PM
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I feel for you. I am more afraid of spraining my ankle than about anything in the world. I even dream about it. :!: Now you bring me the unfortunate news that climbing has ankle sprain potential. Thanks a lot. Good luck with a quick and complete recovery.
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zerogravity
Apr 29, 2003, 4:02 PM
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Hey "Red point maniac", who the f*#k are you to make light of people's injuries? You just lost a ton of Karma currency with that move. Better triple check your gear from now on. You might be the next one sniffling.
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mike
Apr 29, 2003, 4:19 PM
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Ahhhh...The Red River Gorge...twas about 6 months ago that Father and Son got me up there. All that stuff in the ankle twisted and torn, one ligament pulled a piece of bone off. It still isn't right but I think it's as right as it's going to get. When it gets a little better, do those exercises...drawing the alphabet with your toes, standing next to wall and balancing on the bad foot...they help
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hippie_dreams
Apr 29, 2003, 4:57 PM
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Hey don't feel so bad. Jump for Joy is pretty shady. From the first HUGE move to the crimps at the crux, it's a very mental climb. When I first started leading I was able to onsight a 10a (Stay to the Left) at the Red, but I couldn't finish Jump for Joy. Once you heal up I would suggest getting back on that horse and going for it again. You'll feel great when you get it. Plus, there's a great view at the chains - you can chill on a ledge and look out at the winding road.
Another tip - you can traverse over to the route to the left of Jump for Joy to set up a TR. It's called Motha, 5.6 and it's a trad route, but the traverse from Jump for Joy is pretty easy. Make sure you bring a second rope though.
Hope you get better soon!
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nabisco
Apr 29, 2003, 5:11 PM
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YOu'll be better before you know it. I hurt myself a few years ago in a bad bouldering fall.. broke my leg in 8 pieces...ouch I was never so bummed. I had just climbed my 1st .12 that day too.. 4 months later I was walking and bouldering again-- tenderly. I kept my self sane by riding a stationary bike, and pulling down on my hangboard. Just take it easy an let yourself heal completely.. DO not get yourself into a position where you could hurtyourself again till your 100% better. My buddy broke his leg when we were mountain bking.. he rushed getting back onto his feet and now 18 months later he still feels pain and instability in that limb. sux
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ramylson
Apr 29, 2003, 8:25 PM
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RRG. Ahh.. the memories. Last spring I was there and climbing 'Relaxed Atmosphere' towards the end of the day. Got super pumped, but onsited up to the third bolt (just past the crux) and was going to clip it. Was short roped a bit, couldn't hang on, and ended up "decking" (~30ft). Nothing terrible.. but grazed the ground and into the wall. Lucky.. nothing physical was wrong with me, but mental I've had to built back up to hard climbing. Especially low..
It's amazing how things can go one way or the other..
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caughtinside
Apr 29, 2003, 8:32 PM
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Dude, bummer about the ankle.
That was totally your belayer's fault. Or was it? You need to have good communication, and your belayer needs to know what to do. ie, "I might fall" does NOT mean take tight when you're on lead.
There's some threads about 'dynamic belaying' on here that you should check out.
Get well soon!
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rwaltermyer
Apr 29, 2003, 8:38 PM
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from what i know....its almost better to break your ankle than to sprain in badly. definitely a frustrating recovery. I know V-ball players who can't do anything without their ankle supports.
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shisho
Apr 29, 2003, 9:46 PM
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Yeah, I'm not mad at him, because it was both our faults. He misread me. He saw my leg wobble a bit when I warned him so he thought I was popping off, and he concentrated on the gear. His fault, my fault, but if I didn't say anything and messed up that move and he wasn't ready it might've been worse.
That boo hoo remark was dumb, because I'm not crying about it, I'm just letting you guys know (In the Injury Forum) about my injury. I'm really positive about it, and I know that it will be OK. Certainly not the worst thing that can happen. Thanks though for the encouragement. 8 breaks in your leg, jeez.
I should see a 90-100% recovery. I got the surgery fast and the doctor is an excellent surgeon. I should resume climbing this Summer, but for the next year or two I'm just top roping. I will get that Jump for Joy, I know I had that move!
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ptone
May 2, 2003, 8:18 PM
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Hey--sorry about the ankle--its true that it may feel like forever now, but it'll be healed and looking back it'll seem like no time.
You always wanted to practice on that campus board anyhow right?
:D
Just a thought on belay--if someone is about to fall on lead, you don't always want to yard in the rope, in fact very rarely is that the best idea, unless you are over a ledge or there is groundfall potential.
You can slam your climber into the wall before they can get their feet up if you are yanking in the rope at the moment they arc out. Pulling them off is even more likely (guess you found out the hard way-no fun).
I wish you the speediest of recoveries.
You'll be climbing in no time!
Peace,
-p
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kman
May 2, 2003, 8:57 PM
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Holy frig Astone. You're an a$$
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climbsomething
May 2, 2003, 9:57 PM
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In reply to: He pulled the slack out and I popped off as a result... |
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