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tori
Apr 29, 2003, 3:11 AM
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around oregon and in washington it looks like climbing used to be the rage 30 years ago, then everyone centered on a handfull of super crags and never went back into the woods. so many odd little places have moss covered rusty old bolts or "classic" trad routes, but the current guide books don't even mention them. so we have more climbers lining up in the same places, while we loose routes to the forest every year. has the new generation of extreme sports enthusiasts abandoned the idea of going someplace far from the road that's a pain in the ass to get to in order to climb? even the developed crags near portland have as many grown over routes as they have currently climbed routes. i guess the rainy season is to blame for some of that, but you would think with more climbers every year we would maintain the areas where climbing used to happen. is this a trend in your area, or are we just loosing a battle with moss? oh, and if you or anyone you know has ever climbed st.peters dome please tell, i have had my eye on that dome for a while and whenever i have what it takes to get there, oh how nice it will be.
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mungeclimber
May 6, 2003, 7:13 PM
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bump
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cap'n cook
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May 11, 2003, 4:57 AM
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This is an interesting topic. I'd definately be interested in finding some of these areas. Anyone have any info here?
-Matt
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therelic
May 11, 2003, 5:15 AM
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Table Rock in SoOR has some manky 1/4" bolts from climbers in the 40's but the area is protected now and bolting is not allowed. If you want to use trad it may be legal but the rock is very unstable and the bottom of the cliffs have the thickest poison oak bushes I have ever seen.
Payne Cliffs just outside of Phoenix is place people used to rappel and climb in the early 50's but the cliffs are on private property and as far as I know the owners don't want people climbing there.
I am sure there are other locations around here but I really don't think they are worth the effort to resurrect.
Bill
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fawkes
May 16, 2003, 3:52 PM
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i agree, i like to spend most of my climbing time hiking to the crag, thats half the fun. more peoole should try it because the routes are starting to look like crap
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clymber
May 16, 2003, 4:01 PM
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i think society is becoming lazy and want that instant satisfaction as opposed to wroking for some stuff..i have gone on 2 hour hikes for climbs and to me its more then worth it because you are totally alone..i did cresent moon buttress in portero chico and ppl were looking at me like i was nuts...why go so far away from the main cliff to do a OK route according to some...i think it is one of the best ones i have done there...just my opinion
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ransom
May 16, 2003, 5:38 PM
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Bill (I'm assuming Bill Newcomb)- Dylan Ransom here- what's goin on?
Been doing much climbing? I've been trying, but Air Force life and a desk job has kept me both busy and fat. Utah is killer though! I'm spoiled here big time.
Funny you mention Payne Cliffs- I've tromped around up there a few times- I'd forget how terrible the rock is and go back for another look-- I wouldn't trust 6" bolts in that stuff
As for 'lost' and obscure crags, I've probably been to twenty within an hour of my old place in Phoenix, as well as a bunch further away. Almost none of them are worth unearthing! Maybe a couple more Rattlesnakes out there, who knows?
Here's a couple obscure ones, though, for you Southern Oregon guys looking for more rock:
Avenue of the Giant Boulders (can't remember where- within 30 minutes of shady cove) has some GREAT looking basalt offwidths and several nice cracks- people have climbed there.
Dead Soldier Rock (aka Soldier Rock)- Somewhat near Rabbit Ears- if you're driving north toward the Ears, it's on the right side of the Highway (I think there's a sign), drive 30+ minutes up a dirt road to a couple crags. Actually potential for about 25 routes there on good rock.
There are countless little crags like this all over Oregon, but again, mostly not worth unearthing.
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