|
wlderdude
May 3, 2003, 1:54 AM
Post #1 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
I have found that when a clip needs to be made that is not right in line with where you are standing, the biner falls off before making it to the bolt.
There is a piece of velco that holds the plastic on the pole, which can be wraped around the biner to hold it securly on.
Pulling the stick off can be more difficult, but it can be done.
Oh, and if you are just some looser so desperate to make a post that you will make useless comments about not using a clipstick, just go the community forum. Don't bother posting here.
|
|
|
|
|
straightedgeteen
May 3, 2003, 2:19 PM
Post #2 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2002
Posts: 367
|
Stick Clips are cheating :evil:
|
|
|
|
|
mitchal
May 3, 2003, 3:25 PM
Post #3 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2002
Posts: 672
|
There is no cheating unless you are competing. If you want to be safe and clip,by all means do so.If you want to spray about how good you are,then don't.
I climb to have fun and do-so safely,so I can climb again another day.
Climb Happy and Unfettered
Mitch :D
|
|
|
|
|
raingod
May 3, 2003, 3:52 PM
Post #4 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2003
Posts: 118
|
well said mitchal !!
|
|
|
|
|
straightedgeteen
May 3, 2003, 6:24 PM
Post #5 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2002
Posts: 367
|
In reply to: There is no cheating unless you are competing. If you want to be safe and clip,by all means do so.If you want to spray about how good you are,then don't. I climb to have fun and do-so safely,so I can climb again another day. Climb Happy and Unfettered Mitch :D
True true....my thinking if your going to use stick clips and say your god thats cheating, if your using it to work on it and then later do it with out it then you may brag but till then ehhh
|
|
|
|
|
jughead
May 3, 2003, 7:18 PM
Post #6 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 292
|
is cheating
the idea is climb and clip not cower and clip
|
|
|
|
|
prufrock
May 3, 2003, 7:38 PM
Post #7 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 378
|
Cheating huh? That's pure BS. I am 5'6", with a bad ape index. I have climbed many climbs where the average-height male climber can clip from a nice, comfy stance. Me, I have to start the crux section before I clip. One climb in particular comes to mind where you are on a nice ledge. Some leaders can reach the bolt from there. Me, it is two inches out of my reach. The bolt is off to the right, the 10a crux of the climb goes off to the left. Once you start the crux, it is more dangerous to clip than it is just to skip that bolt and run it out 15 feet.
So my question to you, are those f*cking tall guys cheating, that can make a nice cozy clip *before* the darn crux? Or am I the cheater, the short guy that would like to be able to be protected on the crux of the climb as well, and uses some sort of stick clip to clip the bolt?
|
|
|
|
|
pico23
May 5, 2003, 4:29 AM
Post #8 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2003
Posts: 2378
|
In reply to: Stick Clips are cheating :evil:
climbing is what you make of it. I don't sport climb much so I don't even own a stick clip but I don't climb to impress anyone but myself. You can't cheat unless it's a) a competion, or b) you are bragging on an achievement you didn't actually accomplish. Therefore, anything goes when trying to do something that only has as many rules as you create. I used to believe my ethics were the way climbing should be (no pulling on gear, no stick clips, ect.). I learned it isn't the case. Just have fun and be safe and be honest.
|
|
|
|
|
jdean
May 5, 2003, 12:29 PM
Post #9 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2001
Posts: 200
|
I have always been taught that you can stick clip the first bolt and still get the send. Anymore and it's null and void, regardless of what problems you may or may not encounter on the route.
Matt
|
|
|
|
|
rwaltermyer
May 5, 2003, 12:47 PM
Post #10 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 10, 2001
Posts: 1059
|
sometimes i wish we all would quitting moaning and complaining and just GO CLIMB!
|
|
|
|
|
z0mb1e
May 5, 2003, 12:56 PM
Post #11 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 52
|
In reply to: I have found that when a clip needs to be made that is not right in line with where you are standing, the biner falls off before making it to the bolt. There is a piece of velco that holds the plastic on the pole, which can be wraped around the biner to hold it securly on. Pulling the stick off can be more difficult, but it can be done. Oh, and if you are just some looser so desperate to make a post that you will make useless comments about not using a clipstick, just go the community forum. Don't bother posting here.
It think all you posters have completly missed that point of this post. The poster is asking about the stick clip itself and even goes out of his way to say that this is not a forum for discussing if the stick clip is valid.
|
|
|
|
|
acrophobic
May 5, 2003, 1:12 PM
Post #12 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2002
Posts: 368
|
I'd rather "cheat" and stick clip a nasty first bolt with a bad fall area, than sit the rest of the season out with a broken ankle.. or worse.
|
|
|
|
|
sheppe
May 5, 2003, 3:14 PM
Post #14 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2002
Posts: 170
|
In reply to: I'd rather "cheat" and stick clip a nasty first bolt with a bad fall area, than sit the rest of the season out with a broken ankle.. or worse.
Well said!
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
May 5, 2003, 3:59 PM
Post #15 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
Yeah, I knew that no matter waht I said, some moron would see the word clipstick and post some meaningless "Cheater" comment. Some topics are just too sensitive for some people.
It was my hope that we could have a thread about using clipsticks WITHOUT debating the vain bragging right depletion issues that come with using one.
CAN'T WE TALK ABOUT HOW TO USE ONE WITHOUT DISCUSSING THE MERITS OF USING ONE? There are already 2 or 3 active threads on whether it is "Redpoint" or some other useless classification if you use one.
Okay, well,
Omegalite 4.0 carabiners will not fit in a clipstick. This is another reason I hate Omelite 4.0 biners. They are the ones with the funny shape that feels good in your hands until you try to actually clip a bolt. Oh, and no other biner snags as bad.
Keylocking biners have thouble staying open since there is no rivet for the plastic clips to hold the gate open with. Wiregate biners have this problem to a much lower extent (meaning they work, just not as well as regular biners).
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
May 5, 2003, 4:48 PM
Post #16 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
Make your own stickclip out of a painter's Mr. longarm, two hose clamps and a spring clamp. then you can orient the biner anyway you need to to make the clip.
Anybody that needs to prove how bold they are by soloing to the first bolt on a sport climb is not very bold. Calling stickclipping cheating is silly and breaking an ankle instead of using a stickclip is stupid.
|
|
|
|
|
diplodocus
May 7, 2003, 9:39 AM
Post #17 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2002
Posts: 132
|
hi alpnclmbr1,
do you have a pix of that setup? pls try to post it if possible
|
|
|
|
|
climbingcowboy
May 7, 2003, 12:35 PM
Post #18 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 1201
|
Its so funny to hear people argue over one type of climbing being cheating and one type not. :lol: :lol: :lol: I'm gonna start a style where i stick clip each bolt then pull myself up with rope then stick clip the next bolt repeat and so on until I'm at the top of 5.16d route, trust me it will be all the rage.
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
May 10, 2003, 7:25 AM
Post #19 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
In reply to: hi alpnclmbr1, do you have a pix of that setup? pls try to post it if possible
no such luck, I don't have a digital camera at the moment.
it is a seven foot painter's pole that extends to about 13ft. the spring clamp is standard home depot type, hose clamp it to the stick and your done.
d.
|
|
|
|
|
ikefromla
May 10, 2003, 5:02 PM
Post #20 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
|
the dude's correct. i've used the painter's pole/orange-tipped clamp method many many times. it's all the rage at mt charleston (don't even start about chipped routes, talk to dan mcquade about such issues, not me).
|
|
|
|
|
wlderdude
May 11, 2003, 3:15 AM
Post #21 of 21
(2806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
|
This thread is finally going somewhere!
The only reason I bought a clipstick instead of making my own is weight.
The approach in the canyon I climb in most often is really steep and paved. It is not uncommon for my calves to wear out before my arms do.
The clipstick made by epic is so light, I always carry it with me when I sport climb.
If you have a pack animal of a partner, climb in larger groups or don't have crazy approaches where you wouldn't want to lug a large pole, by all means, make it yourself!
I saw someone once who used a long stick which stayed by the cliff and athletic tape.
I saw a huge clipstick in a local shop, which is also shown on this page.
http://www.pikamtn.com/3safetygear.html
Wow! That would be nice.
I don't know if I would ever lead climb again!
Okay, that may be a little overstated.
My trad rack has taken precedence over such a luxury.
Ah, but someday. . .
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
